1.6 nsa vs. S/a
02-02-2009, 10:22 AM
#2
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umm, pros of SA they don't require guideplates and they will fit under stock valve covers with no trimming NSA are usually bigger and you can spin those things to the moon. I went with SA because I am still on a stock shortblock and can't spin it that high anyways.
02-02-2009, 11:51 AM
#4
Self-aligning:
Pros: Can be used with stock non-hardened pushrods (96+) and do not need additional hardware. Good for most camshafts and powerbands under 6500rpm. Easy to install, just remove old rockers, bolt on new, set valve lash, and go!
Cons: Less stable at higher RPMs.
Non self-aligning:
Pros: MUCH stabler at all RPMs as compared to S/A.
Cons: Requires pushrod guideplates and hardened pushrods (not necessarily a bad thing). Requires removal of rocker stud to install guideplates, while changing rocker angle (might cause some clearance issues on high lift springs and large diameter retainers, but for most applications is not a cause for concern).
I personally wouldn't use anything other than non self-aligning rockers, as I am using NSA Crane Golds on my AI 383. I'm using the GMPP guideplates, because other guideplates have been shown to alter the pushrod angle. GMPP plates keep them parallel for the most part. Add some ARP 7/16" rocker studs along with 3/8" hardened or chromemoly pushrods and you've got a damn strong hydraulic roller valvetrain setup short of a shaft-mount rocker setup.
Pros: Can be used with stock non-hardened pushrods (96+) and do not need additional hardware. Good for most camshafts and powerbands under 6500rpm. Easy to install, just remove old rockers, bolt on new, set valve lash, and go!
Cons: Less stable at higher RPMs.
Non self-aligning:
Pros: MUCH stabler at all RPMs as compared to S/A.
Cons: Requires pushrod guideplates and hardened pushrods (not necessarily a bad thing). Requires removal of rocker stud to install guideplates, while changing rocker angle (might cause some clearance issues on high lift springs and large diameter retainers, but for most applications is not a cause for concern).
I personally wouldn't use anything other than non self-aligning rockers, as I am using NSA Crane Golds on my AI 383. I'm using the GMPP guideplates, because other guideplates have been shown to alter the pushrod angle. GMPP plates keep them parallel for the most part. Add some ARP 7/16" rocker studs along with 3/8" hardened or chromemoly pushrods and you've got a damn strong hydraulic roller valvetrain setup short of a shaft-mount rocker setup.
02-02-2009, 05:57 PM
#7
I love these threads.
You have been given the benefits of each (price seems to have fallen by the wayside) so now you need to determine the requirements of your engine. Do you need a drivetrain that can spin to 7000 rpm? Is cost a factor? Do you mind hacking up your stock valve covers or buying new ones?
For the ultimate, the NSA units certainly rule.
For normal use, the SA units should be fine.
My own two cents: Get full roller rockers, not just rocker tips. The fulcrum is the most important part to have a roller bearing, IMHO.
You have been given the benefits of each (price seems to have fallen by the wayside) so now you need to determine the requirements of your engine. Do you need a drivetrain that can spin to 7000 rpm? Is cost a factor? Do you mind hacking up your stock valve covers or buying new ones?
For the ultimate, the NSA units certainly rule.
For normal use, the SA units should be fine.
My own two cents: Get full roller rockers, not just rocker tips. The fulcrum is the most important part to have a roller bearing, IMHO.
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02-02-2009, 05:59 PM
#8
I love these threads.
You have been given the benefits of each (price seems to have fallen by the wayside) so now you need to determine the requirements of your engine. Do you need a drivetrain that can spin to 7000 rpm? Is cost a factor? Do you mind hacking up your stock valve covers or buying new ones?
For the ultimate, the NSA units certainly rule.
For normal use, the SA units should be fine.
My own two cents: Get full roller rockers, not just rocker tips. The fulcrum is the most important part to have a roller bearing, IMHO.
You have been given the benefits of each (price seems to have fallen by the wayside) so now you need to determine the requirements of your engine. Do you need a drivetrain that can spin to 7000 rpm? Is cost a factor? Do you mind hacking up your stock valve covers or buying new ones?
For the ultimate, the NSA units certainly rule.
For normal use, the SA units should be fine.
My own two cents: Get full roller rockers, not just rocker tips. The fulcrum is the most important part to have a roller bearing, IMHO.
02-02-2009, 06:03 PM
#9
I love these threads.
You have been given the benefits of each (price seems to have fallen by the wayside) so now you need to determine the requirements of your engine. Do you need a drivetrain that can spin to 7000 rpm? Is cost a factor? Do you mind hacking up your stock valve covers or buying new ones?
For the ultimate, the NSA units certainly rule.
For normal use, the SA units should be fine.
My own two cents: Get full roller rockers, not just rocker tips. The fulcrum is the most important part to have a roller bearing, IMHO.
You have been given the benefits of each (price seems to have fallen by the wayside) so now you need to determine the requirements of your engine. Do you need a drivetrain that can spin to 7000 rpm? Is cost a factor? Do you mind hacking up your stock valve covers or buying new ones?
For the ultimate, the NSA units certainly rule.
For normal use, the SA units should be fine.
My own two cents: Get full roller rockers, not just rocker tips. The fulcrum is the most important part to have a roller bearing, IMHO.
