push rod 503
02-04-2009, 02:40 PM
#1
push rod 503 got my engine down and everything out got cam in springs changed ... now i am down to just a few peice to buy main thing is push rods how long do i need them and i am running 503 with wit bowtie 1.6 rr. any help would be nice . and whats the best and cheapest timing chain
02-04-2009, 02:45 PM
#2
got my engine down and everything out got cam in springs changed ... now i am down to just a few peice to buy main thing is push rods how long do i need them and i am running 503 with wit bowtie 1.6 rr. any help would be nice . and whats the best and cheapest timing chain
I think you can get a Lunati Timing set off of Summit for a good price.
P.S. Your sig says '96 Z27
02-04-2009, 02:56 PM
#3
yea man 96 z27 is a rare car lol one of a kind .. lmmao i didnt see that .. but thanks use a lenght checker the last one i used she just about choked to death... 
no really tho while that net me some more lift or what and they are stock heads never been off the car ...
no really tho while that net me some more lift or what and they are stock heads never been off the car ... 
02-04-2009, 03:04 PM
#5
You said that YOU never had the heads off, are you positive they were never taken off ever? If so, then 7.2" 'should' be fine. But measuring is always your best bet.
02-04-2009, 06:20 PM
#6
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I'm running comp cams welded tip stock replacement (7.2) pushrods on my car with a comp 503 and comp 918's.
they've been on there for 3 years and no problem yet.
they've been on there for 3 years and no problem yet.
02-04-2009, 06:29 PM
#7
...and by "checking" PR length you bring #1 cyl to TDC (any cyl works), remove rocker, mark valve tip with sharpie marker, lash rocker 1/2 turn, turn engine by hand 2 times, remove rocker and if witness mark is DEAD center you are cool with the stock PR of 7.2"
If not then get a PR check tool as noted and repeat process by setting it to .050 longer/shorter incriments. I have a cheap plastic T metric ruler I push the PR tool against and use a small metal straight edge against the other and "adjust" the PR tool to whatever length I want. Good idea to put a small piece of tape on PR tool to keep the "new" length exactly where you set it.
If the witness mark is towards exhaust than a shorter PR. If it is towards the engine a longer PR.
Typically PR come in .050 length difference. Trick Flow is a good one, many others.
Don't F around with valve train geometry. get it right or severe wear will result. PR length, valve lash preload are 2 things if you F up can cost big $ later.
If not then get a PR check tool as noted and repeat process by setting it to .050 longer/shorter incriments. I have a cheap plastic T metric ruler I push the PR tool against and use a small metal straight edge against the other and "adjust" the PR tool to whatever length I want. Good idea to put a small piece of tape on PR tool to keep the "new" length exactly where you set it.
If the witness mark is towards exhaust than a shorter PR. If it is towards the engine a longer PR.
Typically PR come in .050 length difference. Trick Flow is a good one, many others.
Don't F around with valve train geometry. get it right or severe wear will result. PR length, valve lash preload are 2 things if you F up can cost big $ later.
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02-05-2009, 01:41 PM
#9
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Rotate the crank one revolution until the pointer is again at 12 o'clock. This will let you adjust the remainder of the valves. If you did #1 the previous time, you should be now at #6 TDC.
When at #6 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
For each rocker, all you have to do is back off the set screw and slowly tighten the lock until it seats on the rocker (it will just stop). Then add your preload (I used 1/2 turn) with a 16mm wrench. Then tighten the set screw and finally since down the lock again.
That's the initial adjustment, it will get the car running. Once the car is running, you'll want to have the valve covers off and redo each rocker one by one (not following the numbers above) one side at a time. Back off the set screw again, loosen the lock, the rocker will clank and wobble around. Then follow the same procedure as before...slowly turn the lock til it seats, add 1/2 turn, seat the set screw, tighten the lock good and tight. Then move on the the next one.
The adjust the second time around should make your rockers PERFECTLY aligned. It's best to adjust them again with the car running to make sure that your first adjustment wasn't off because the lifters bled down or anything.
02-05-2009, 03:00 PM
#10
Adjusting rockers with poly locks is a breeze.
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Rotate the crank one revolution until the pointer is again at 12 o'clock. This will let you adjust the remainder of the valves. If you did #1 the previous time, you should be now at #6 TDC.
When at #6 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
For each rocker, all you have to do is back off the set screw and slowly tighten the lock until it seats on the rocker (it will just stop). Then add your preload (I used 1/2 turn) with a 16mm wrench. Then tighten the set screw and finally since down the lock again.
That's the initial adjustment, it will get the car running. Once the car is running, you'll want to have the valve covers off and redo each rocker one by one (not following the numbers above) one side at a time. Back off the set screw again, loosen the lock, the rocker will clank and wobble around. Then follow the same procedure as before...slowly turn the lock til it seats, add 1/2 turn, seat the set screw, tighten the lock good and tight. Then move on the the next one.
The adjust the second time around should make your rockers PERFECTLY aligned. It's best to adjust them again with the car running to make sure that your first adjustment wasn't off because the lifters bled down or anything.
When at #1 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
Rotate the crank one revolution until the pointer is again at 12 o'clock. This will let you adjust the remainder of the valves. If you did #1 the previous time, you should be now at #6 TDC.
When at #6 TDC you can adjust the following valves:
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
For each rocker, all you have to do is back off the set screw and slowly tighten the lock until it seats on the rocker (it will just stop). Then add your preload (I used 1/2 turn) with a 16mm wrench. Then tighten the set screw and finally since down the lock again.
That's the initial adjustment, it will get the car running. Once the car is running, you'll want to have the valve covers off and redo each rocker one by one (not following the numbers above) one side at a time. Back off the set screw again, loosen the lock, the rocker will clank and wobble around. Then follow the same procedure as before...slowly turn the lock til it seats, add 1/2 turn, seat the set screw, tighten the lock good and tight. Then move on the the next one.
The adjust the second time around should make your rockers PERFECTLY aligned. It's best to adjust them again with the car running to make sure that your first adjustment wasn't off because the lifters bled down or anything.
02-05-2009, 03:59 PM
#13
It should be noted that this method does work with most small and medium-aggressive grinds, but cams with significant duration you'll want to do one-by-one. Simply because you'll need to ensure that the lifter is on the base circle of the cam and not in the midst of opening/closing when the adjustment is made. But for the 503, this method will work fine.
02-08-2009, 09:35 PM
#20
ok 7.2 long what diamteter would those be i have found two or three different sizes ... got to change the oil PAN GASKET pita !!!but i think i can do it without rasiing the motor just lookin but i beleive if i have enought room when it is fully unbolted i can just slightly strech it over and be done who all had this prob