Lifter Spider and keeper
02-11-2009, 07:35 PM
#4
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I've never heard of anyone actually having a problem with stockers, so I don't see the need to run a retrofit kit (I assume that's what that one is).
I did have an idea though for this, on older motors with out the provisions for the plate. Take the roller plates and drill a hole directly in the middle (doesn't have to be 100% in the middle) and then drill a hole in the middle between the lifters. Now, this works out much better on the actual roller motors since it's already flat. This is where you NEED to make sure it's directly lined up with the first hole or else it won't be perfectly between the 2 lifters and it'll not work out.
So after you get the holes drilled, you tap them out and run a bolt (or straight stud if you want I guess) into it. between the head of the bolt and the lifter plate you'll have a light spring which will act just like the spider plate, except independent from the rest of the lifters.
The idea came to me when we were trying to cheaply "roller" a SBC and the only roller block we had was a 4.3, which spider plate won't work from. But we had enough (due to another motor) of the lifter plates to keep them aligned. In popped the idea 
The spring retention idea is just based off of computer heatsinks. You can't CRANK down on the screws or else you'll crack the computer chip, so they have springs that allow enough retention pressure, but won't over tighten and ruin anything.
But, that's just another cracked idea from me, take it as you will lol
Side note: I found this pic while searching for a old school SBC lifter valley and it cracked me up. So I'm going to share
[/IMG]http://craig.backfire.ca/img/graphic-nature.png[/IMG]
I did have an idea though for this, on older motors with out the provisions for the plate. Take the roller plates and drill a hole directly in the middle (doesn't have to be 100% in the middle) and then drill a hole in the middle between the lifters. Now, this works out much better on the actual roller motors since it's already flat. This is where you NEED to make sure it's directly lined up with the first hole or else it won't be perfectly between the 2 lifters and it'll not work out.
So after you get the holes drilled, you tap them out and run a bolt (or straight stud if you want I guess) into it. between the head of the bolt and the lifter plate you'll have a light spring which will act just like the spider plate, except independent from the rest of the lifters.
The idea came to me when we were trying to cheaply "roller" a SBC and the only roller block we had was a 4.3, which spider plate won't work from. But we had enough (due to another motor) of the lifter plates to keep them aligned. In popped the idea The spring retention idea is just based off of computer heatsinks. You can't CRANK down on the screws or else you'll crack the computer chip, so they have springs that allow enough retention pressure, but won't over tighten and ruin anything.But, that's just another cracked idea from me, take it as you will lol
Side note: I found this pic while searching for a old school SBC lifter valley and it cracked me up. So I'm going to share
[/IMG]http://craig.backfire.ca/img/graphic-nature.png[/IMG]
02-11-2009, 08:49 PM
#5
As far as I know the Comp kit is just for stock replacement bizzzatch.
Doing this would not allow the dog bones to float like the spider or a set of link fars do. I doubt that you would be able to place the holes precisely enough for this to work without problems.
I did have an idea though for this, on older motors with out the provisions for the plate. Take the roller plates and drill a hole directly in the middle (doesn't have to be 100% in the middle) and then drill a hole in the middle between the lifters. Now, this works out much better on the actual roller motors since it's already flat. This is where you NEED to make sure it's directly lined up with the first hole or else it won't be perfectly between the 2 lifters and it'll not work out.
So after you get the holes drilled, you tap them out and run a bolt (or straight stud if you want I guess) into it. between the head of the bolt and the lifter plate you'll have a light spring which will act just like the spider plate, except independent from the rest of the lifters. The idea came to me when we were trying to cheaply "roller" a SBC and the only roller block we had was a 4.3, which spider plate won't work from. But we had enough (due to another motor) of the lifter plates to keep them aligned. In popped the idea The spring retention idea is just based off of computer heatsinks. You can't CRANK down on the screws or else you'll crack the computer chip, so they have springs that allow enough retention pressure, but won't over tighten and ruin anything.
So after you get the holes drilled, you tap them out and run a bolt (or straight stud if you want I guess) into it. between the head of the bolt and the lifter plate you'll have a light spring which will act just like the spider plate, except independent from the rest of the lifters. The idea came to me when we were trying to cheaply "roller" a SBC and the only roller block we had was a 4.3, which spider plate won't work from. But we had enough (due to another motor) of the lifter plates to keep them aligned. In popped the idea The spring retention idea is just based off of computer heatsinks. You can't CRANK down on the screws or else you'll crack the computer chip, so they have springs that allow enough retention pressure, but won't over tighten and ruin anything.
Last edited by fergymoto; 02-11-2009 at 09:32 PM.
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02-12-2009, 09:07 AM
#9
never heard of a spider failing? lost a motor to one arm bending up and the lifters spun. they were chopped in half by the cam lobe. Search isnt working for me so I cant link the thread but heres a pic
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...urrent=001.jpg
needless to say im running morel link bars this go round
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z...urrent=001.jpg
needless to say im running morel link bars this go round
02-12-2009, 12:47 PM
#11
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While it would be a complicated task, I wouldn't go as far as saying it wouldn't work. You could easily make a rigging that bolts to the block deck, like a bore machine (well the old ones heh), and then work it like a drill press. You'd just need either a slightly longer bit to reach down there (not recommended) or have the brackets low enough to hold the drill (air would be best) and there you go. Easiest thing to do would be have the dog bone already in place (held by 2 lifters) and drill both at the same time. Since the lifter holes are flat on the top, especially on the roller blocks, you will have no problem doing this. Likewise the use of the spring should cause no issues that I can see, because you're not going to be using something stiff like a valve spring, so it should have no problem giving. If I come across an unused dog bone I'll mock something up to give a better idea of how it'd work out.
Hence my idea :\ 