Keep blowing sub
03-05-2009, 01:01 PM
#1
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Keep blowing sub I have a kenwood 300 watt rms and 1000 watt peak amp. And i have gone through about 4 subs. I dont know why it keeps blowing the subs. The subs a rated to handle the power, haha which isnt much. So i am know on my 5 sub and im seeing if yall might be able to help me out because i dont know what the problem is?
03-05-2009, 02:42 PM
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I am only running a single alpine type e. The ohms are the same for the sub and amp. And the amp is a Kenwood 300 wt rms and 1000 wt peak. But i was thinking that i was under powering the sub but the last one that i blew burnt up and smoked.
Heres the amp:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1198888991131
Heres the new sub i got today:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1199494646811
Heres the amp:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1198888991131
Heres the new sub i got today:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1199494646811
Last edited by crapyboy750; 03-05-2009 at 02:55 PM.
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03-05-2009, 04:56 PM
#9
I have the same amp,
ur subwoofer is a single voice coil 4ohm that handles 250rms and ur amplifier outputs 300rms @4ohm, that means ur giving ur sub 50rms more than it can handles, thats why its blowing.
what u can do is lower or gains and if u want more bass get a 4ohm DVC that could handle 500rms {connect it in paralell to get the 2 ohm load}
ur subwoofer is a single voice coil 4ohm that handles 250rms and ur amplifier outputs 300rms @4ohm, that means ur giving ur sub 50rms more than it can handles, thats why its blowing.
what u can do is lower or gains and if u want more bass get a 4ohm DVC that could handle 500rms {connect it in paralell to get the 2 ohm load}
Last edited by Engine_HP; 03-05-2009 at 05:21 PM.
03-05-2009, 10:00 PM
#11
real problem is u are prly clipping and that u need to lower ur LPF to liek 80hz and maybe dial ur gain down
there is nothing wrong with kenwood, not top of the line but no need to run out and drop 1g on other stuff
there is nothing wrong with kenwood, not top of the line but no need to run out and drop 1g on other stuff
03-05-2009, 10:09 PM
#12
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+1 on that I had 2 jl 12" w3's powered by an older model fosgate (when they actually produced more power then they were rated) it was a 500w amp and dude... go with the w3's
03-06-2009, 10:52 PM
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X2 what this guy said. Your probably sending to high of a frequency to your sub causing distortion and blowing it. This happend to my first sub after a month.
03-07-2009, 12:46 AM
#15
Not a bad sub but it is Alpines entry level subwoofer, I can think of dozens of other entry level subs that are actually crap but that one for what it is, is not all that bad. 250watt RMS and your sending it 300watt RMS is not making that much of a difference as long as your not clipping the amp. Like the others have mentioned, you need to set your frequency range in the same range as the subwoofer which in this case is 27-1000Hz. As Pentavolvo said 80Hz would be a much better setting and you can tune accordingly from there.
The W3 is a good sub as well but is still not that much better overall. It has about the same power rating, contruction, and only slightly better numbers then the Type-E. Even peak xmax is only a 1.3mm difference, which is nothing to write home about and power ratings are also very similar at 250watts RMS/750watts PEAK for the Type-E, 75-300watts RMS/600watts PEAK for the W3 both with a 4ohm SVC.
With ANY sub amp combo, tuning is important and matching up the components being used is very important ie: sub, amp, enclosure volume, frequency range/tuning, etc. In this case you don't seem that far off with the sub and amp combo. Having a little more power then what the sub is rated at is a good thing IMO because your not having to run the amp at it's full gain setting which could cause damage to your subwoofer by clipping the amp. Back off the gain a little and set the frequency range properly. Assuming that amp is actually making the power it says it does, that should work
That should solve your issue as long as your not going for huge amounts of bass. You might be pushing it too hard and expecting too much out of that sub which would also explain why you keep blowing them up. For longevity and giving a sub alot of abuse, most entry level equipment will not hold up. Just something else to take into consideration.
The W3 is a good sub as well but is still not that much better overall. It has about the same power rating, contruction, and only slightly better numbers then the Type-E. Even peak xmax is only a 1.3mm difference, which is nothing to write home about and power ratings are also very similar at 250watts RMS/750watts PEAK for the Type-E, 75-300watts RMS/600watts PEAK for the W3 both with a 4ohm SVC.
With ANY sub amp combo, tuning is important and matching up the components being used is very important ie: sub, amp, enclosure volume, frequency range/tuning, etc. In this case you don't seem that far off with the sub and amp combo. Having a little more power then what the sub is rated at is a good thing IMO because your not having to run the amp at it's full gain setting which could cause damage to your subwoofer by clipping the amp. Back off the gain a little and set the frequency range properly. Assuming that amp is actually making the power it says it does, that should work
That should solve your issue as long as your not going for huge amounts of bass. You might be pushing it too hard and expecting too much out of that sub which would also explain why you keep blowing them up. For longevity and giving a sub alot of abuse, most entry level equipment will not hold up. Just something else to take into consideration.
