Freakin' headlights!!!
03-23-2009, 09:50 PM
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Freakin' headlights!!! Boy, I could strangle somebody!!
I spent the money to buy the hardened aluminum gears that brent franker sells. I purchased 2 of them even though i only needed one for the driver's side motor because that was the one stripped out. I spent all weekend f'in with that thing about 3 weeks ago between removing/waiting for epoxy to dry/re-installation. Not more than 2 weeks-ish after installing everything back together and having things working fine and dandy did that damn thing decided it was going to be intermittent on me. I would have to turn the headlight on an off, first just twice and the driver's side (the one with the original stripped gear) would pop up. As a few days went by I would have to cycle through more and more times to get the driver's side to pop up. Well... as of 2 nights ago. The motor just doesn't work. No sounds, no grinding, no nothin! The headlight turns on bye the headlight itself won't pop up.
Now, I am by no means advanced in the electrical dept. So if this turns out to be an electrical issue, I'm screwed. How can an electrically challanged person, such as myself, figure this one out? What are the chances it's just the pos motor altogether and I simply need to buy a new one? If I did get a new one, can I just rip the gear out of it and put the aluminum one in or should I let it ride out with the nylon one it comes with stock?
GRRRR... so frustrating these damn lights have been.
P.S. - This is by no means a bashing on the parts brent franker sells. They look/fit very well even with the small adjustment needed in most cases.
I spent the money to buy the hardened aluminum gears that brent franker sells. I purchased 2 of them even though i only needed one for the driver's side motor because that was the one stripped out. I spent all weekend f'in with that thing about 3 weeks ago between removing/waiting for epoxy to dry/re-installation. Not more than 2 weeks-ish after installing everything back together and having things working fine and dandy did that damn thing decided it was going to be intermittent on me. I would have to turn the headlight on an off, first just twice and the driver's side (the one with the original stripped gear) would pop up. As a few days went by I would have to cycle through more and more times to get the driver's side to pop up. Well... as of 2 nights ago. The motor just doesn't work. No sounds, no grinding, no nothin! The headlight turns on bye the headlight itself won't pop up.
Now, I am by no means advanced in the electrical dept. So if this turns out to be an electrical issue, I'm screwed. How can an electrically challanged person, such as myself, figure this one out? What are the chances it's just the pos motor altogether and I simply need to buy a new one? If I did get a new one, can I just rip the gear out of it and put the aluminum one in or should I let it ride out with the nylon one it comes with stock?
GRRRR... so frustrating these damn lights have been.
P.S. - This is by no means a bashing on the parts brent franker sells. They look/fit very well even with the small adjustment needed in most cases.
03-23-2009, 10:17 PM
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Yeah my passenger one needs replaced doing the grindin i bought the plastic gear from autozone for $11 Sounds like your motor needs replaced now.
Last edited by 1996firebirdformula; 03-23-2009 at 10:23 PM.
03-23-2009, 10:45 PM
#3
Those metal gears are ok if you're one of the lucky people that they fit perfectly for.
Alot of the times the metal gear will not mesh perfectly with the worm gear and the metal gear will eat up (strip out) that worm gear pretty quick.
They are not worth the hassle. If the worm gear gets stripped, you need to buy a new motor.
Alot of the times the metal gear will not mesh perfectly with the worm gear and the metal gear will eat up (strip out) that worm gear pretty quick.
They are not worth the hassle. If the worm gear gets stripped, you need to buy a new motor.
03-24-2009, 06:18 AM
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Yes, motor could of went bad- only way to know is to check at that connector with a voltmeter.It's very easy to test-you can buy a meter for 3.00 at Harbor Freight- if you want to try, PM me and I can walk you through it.
As to the worm gear going bad ,I think that is because the motor is not bolted to the gearbox- it fits up against it and then some tabs are bent over to keep them together,a poor design for sure.Brent Franker made a big deal on his website about hitting those tabs in with a punch to make sure its tight-a step that should not be skipped!
As to the worm gear going bad ,I think that is because the motor is not bolted to the gearbox- it fits up against it and then some tabs are bent over to keep them together,a poor design for sure.Brent Franker made a big deal on his website about hitting those tabs in with a punch to make sure its tight-a step that should not be skipped!
03-24-2009, 04:54 PM
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I just can't believe the bad string up luck I'm having. First I replace the gear on the driver's side... thing works beautifully. Week later, pass. side low beam goes out... buy new low beam... thing works beautifully. Week later, driver's side motor acting up... now dead.
Talk about bad luck!!
How much are the motors running? I don't like getting after-market stuff because I know there are a lot of things that can go wrong (ie. don't match perfectly, something's off, f-ed up out of the box, etc.). I guess to the stealer-ship it is...
Talk about bad luck!!
How much are the motors running? I don't like getting after-market stuff because I know there are a lot of things that can go wrong (ie. don't match perfectly, something's off, f-ed up out of the box, etc.). I guess to the stealer-ship it is...
03-24-2009, 04:55 PM
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By the way.... It can't be that the gear ate up the worm gear. There is just not a peep of noise coming from that light's motor... I'm going out there right now to check if it's corroded. Gonna spray some electrical contact cleaner and put a little bit of di-electric grease on it and see if that doesn't help some...
Ugh... so pissed! haha
Ugh... so pissed! haha
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03-24-2009, 05:36 PM
#8
I just can't believe the bad string up luck I'm having. First I replace the gear on the driver's side... thing works beautifully. Week later, pass. side low beam goes out... buy new low beam... thing works beautifully. Week later, driver's side motor acting up... now dead.
Talk about bad luck!!
How much are the motors running? I don't like getting after-market stuff because I know there are a lot of things that can go wrong (ie. don't match perfectly, something's off, f-ed up out of the box, etc.). I guess to the stealer-ship it is...
Talk about bad luck!!
How much are the motors running? I don't like getting after-market stuff because I know there are a lot of things that can go wrong (ie. don't match perfectly, something's off, f-ed up out of the box, etc.). I guess to the stealer-ship it is...
Best place to get a new motor for cheap is ebay to be honest with you that is where i bought mine last year for like $120 or somewhere around there.
03-24-2009, 05:52 PM
#9
Not saying for sure it is the metal gear or the worm gear...but if one of the motors isn't working properly/perfectly and it doesn't travel its full amount, or a gear is just slightly stripped.....it can cause all kinds of porblems with BOTH lights and their motors.
03-24-2009, 09:19 PM
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As an Update... I was out there shortly after I posted earlier today and I noticed a few things.
1) I took out the black, plastic trim around the headlights and I disconnected the headlight motor gear. I was pretty rough and I busted the plastic connector holder that holds the connector to the small hole behind the headlight assembly. I felt like a jackass until I noticed something unusual. It looks as though the sheath (for lack of a better term) that protects the wires from rubbing on the sharp edge of the bumper material under there, was slightly worn through, as thought it HAD been rubbing on the sharp edge. The "braid" of the sleeve had been frayed a bit and looked like a slightly, discolored brown. I'm not sure if the brown is from exposed wires burning it (??) or if it's just from getting dirty from rubbing in the open on pieces that are constantly exposed to road grim and everyday dirt. I took a zip tie and I fastened it securely to the wires that are all wrapped up in the conduit around this same area when the connector was orignally located. It's now fastened snugly and very much away from the sharp edge is was originally near, while also preventing the wires from having too much tension placed on them so as not to break them or pull them out of the connectors.
2) When I put the connector back together, after blasting it with electrical contact cleaner in the can and placing some di-electric grease on both the male and female connector ends... the driver's side headlight when up and down several times. However, I let it sit after about 15-20 minutes, before going out to dinner, and then the headlight ceased to go up and down anymore (I thought I HAD IT!) Oh well.
So... are we still thinking it's a bad motor?
1) I took out the black, plastic trim around the headlights and I disconnected the headlight motor gear. I was pretty rough and I busted the plastic connector holder that holds the connector to the small hole behind the headlight assembly. I felt like a jackass until I noticed something unusual. It looks as though the sheath (for lack of a better term) that protects the wires from rubbing on the sharp edge of the bumper material under there, was slightly worn through, as thought it HAD been rubbing on the sharp edge. The "braid" of the sleeve had been frayed a bit and looked like a slightly, discolored brown. I'm not sure if the brown is from exposed wires burning it (??) or if it's just from getting dirty from rubbing in the open on pieces that are constantly exposed to road grim and everyday dirt. I took a zip tie and I fastened it securely to the wires that are all wrapped up in the conduit around this same area when the connector was orignally located. It's now fastened snugly and very much away from the sharp edge is was originally near, while also preventing the wires from having too much tension placed on them so as not to break them or pull them out of the connectors.
2) When I put the connector back together, after blasting it with electrical contact cleaner in the can and placing some di-electric grease on both the male and female connector ends... the driver's side headlight when up and down several times. However, I let it sit after about 15-20 minutes, before going out to dinner, and then the headlight ceased to go up and down anymore (I thought I HAD IT!) Oh well.
So... are we still thinking it's a bad motor?
03-25-2009, 06:20 AM
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Probably is, but you only have a few choices:
a)check voltage supply to motor-if you have it,and motor doesn't run,motor is bad- plain and simple.
b) swap motors and see if it runs on the others voltage supply-a pain in the butt but if you can't check volts it is a way to test.
c) buy a motor and install ( sort of pay to play).If new motor doesn't work then you'll have to keep changing parts or pay someone to check voltage inputs and outputs to the Headlight Opening Actuator Control Module or change that next.
Good Luck!
a)check voltage supply to motor-if you have it,and motor doesn't run,motor is bad- plain and simple.
b) swap motors and see if it runs on the others voltage supply-a pain in the butt but if you can't check volts it is a way to test.
c) buy a motor and install ( sort of pay to play).If new motor doesn't work then you'll have to keep changing parts or pay someone to check voltage inputs and outputs to the Headlight Opening Actuator Control Module or change that next.
Good Luck!
03-25-2009, 05:15 PM
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Another update... This morning I start her up, turn the headlights on... Ta Da! Motor working... going up and down fine each time. However, both the low beam AND high beam were on at the same exact brightness and both were very VERY dim. This was with only the low beams on, I checked and re-checked the indicator on the sterring column, plus the pass. was only on low beam and I know it's funtioning properly.
Well...I get home this evening and in a last ditch effort, before I was about to just drop it off at the dealer to have them figure out the deal/install whatever (I just don't have time to be messing around with this thing and I don't want to drive around like this for awhile), I went out and one last time took the plastic trim around the light out, disconnected the connector, inspected it, and re-connected it. I made sure that thing was plugged in there very securely. Went back and turned the headlights. The thing is going up and down properly, low beam is on properly and just as bright as it should be. I turned them on and off about 5 times. It's like nothing was ever wrong with it.... What in the world gives?
Well...I get home this evening and in a last ditch effort, before I was about to just drop it off at the dealer to have them figure out the deal/install whatever (I just don't have time to be messing around with this thing and I don't want to drive around like this for awhile), I went out and one last time took the plastic trim around the light out, disconnected the connector, inspected it, and re-connected it. I made sure that thing was plugged in there very securely. Went back and turned the headlights. The thing is going up and down properly, low beam is on properly and just as bright as it should be. I turned them on and off about 5 times. It's like nothing was ever wrong with it.... What in the world gives?
03-25-2009, 06:35 PM
#15
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It could be a number of things. High resistance in the wires or connections, blown motor, open or corrosion on the grounds.
Best advice I could give is pull a wiring diagram of the circuit and check it out from there before spending any money.
Best advice I could give is pull a wiring diagram of the circuit and check it out from there before spending any money.
03-25-2009, 09:17 PM
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Bah... I made the decision. She's going to the dealer. Straight GM parts. I know it's going to be more expensive, but at least it'll be by the peeps that made her. I'll let you all know how it goes. I'm probably not going to drop it off until Sunday night though. I'll keep you all posted.
03-31-2009, 06:19 PM
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**UPDATE**
Dropped her off at the dealer's last night. Called back promptly this morning... turns out it was the driver's side headlight motor wire harness. Hefty little bill of $550-ish.... ooof
As a side note... I'm also having it sent to the body shop and they are replacing the driver's side outter door panel. My door has been catching on the front fender bc some a-hole at some point jacked the car up by the door instead of the jackpoint/frame rail. Naturally this got the door out of alignment and it was catching every once in awhile. I knew at some point it would get bad, especially with the weather changing and the material flexing/contracting. Anyways, it getting replaced and re-painted to match.... I'm gonna be a happy camper once again
I'm going to casually bring up the TSB about the roof bubbles when I pick it up... just to see how they respond.
Dropped her off at the dealer's last night. Called back promptly this morning... turns out it was the driver's side headlight motor wire harness. Hefty little bill of $550-ish.... ooof
As a side note... I'm also having it sent to the body shop and they are replacing the driver's side outter door panel. My door has been catching on the front fender bc some a-hole at some point jacked the car up by the door instead of the jackpoint/frame rail. Naturally this got the door out of alignment and it was catching every once in awhile. I knew at some point it would get bad, especially with the weather changing and the material flexing/contracting. Anyways, it getting replaced and re-painted to match.... I'm gonna be a happy camper once again
I'm going to casually bring up the TSB about the roof bubbles when I pick it up... just to see how they respond.
