Cleaning carbon deposits off pistons
04-28-2009, 10:08 PM
#1
Cleaning carbon deposits off pistons Since I've got my heads off, I'm gonna go ahead and clean the carbon deposits off the pistons. Is there anything wrong with using carb cleaner/brake cleaner to get it off? Also, after I clean them, there shouldn't be anything wrong with washing the cylinders down with brake cleaner, is there?
04-28-2009, 10:16 PM
#2
Brake cleaner is fine, thats what I use. And it's good that you're doing that, a lot of people don't and it's really silly not to while the heads are off.
To make life easier you can use a really fine bristle wire wheel brush and a battery operated power drill (DO NOT use an air tool, it's too much rpm and will sling off some of the bristles). This job can be done in 15 minutes using one of those. That includes bringing each piston to TDC, wiping down the cyl walls, etc.
To make life easier you can use a really fine bristle wire wheel brush and a battery operated power drill (DO NOT use an air tool, it's too much rpm and will sling off some of the bristles). This job can be done in 15 minutes using one of those. That includes bringing each piston to TDC, wiping down the cyl walls, etc.
04-29-2009, 05:34 AM
#6
TECH Senior Member
It really depends how caked they are. |
On some I've been able to use gasoline to clean them.
On some I used brake cleaner, then wipe with gasoline, then squirt fresh thin film of oil and when all done, change the oil and filter. A couple of revolutions by hand (to oil the rings again), then wipe at TDC with an absorbant lint free cloth.
On some I've been able to use gasoline to clean them.
On some I used brake cleaner, then wipe with gasoline, then squirt fresh thin film of oil and when all done, change the oil and filter. A couple of revolutions by hand (to oil the rings again), then wipe at TDC with an absorbant lint free cloth.
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04-29-2009, 09:05 AM
#9
TECH Senior Member
The amount that bypasses into your intake would be more than that.
Bottom line pistons are dry when reassembling.
04-29-2009, 11:55 AM
#11
No, on the cylinder walls. I was under the impression that you were washing down the cylinder walls with brake cleaner which would leave them exposed to moisture in the air (a serious problem where I live) and result in dry start. I always wipe the cylinders down with oil and then turn it over to minimize the residual in the cylinder but ensure there is lubrication for cranking and start-up.
04-29-2009, 03:31 PM
#15
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I always like a soft bristle brush, a few rags, and brakleen. I wouls never consider a wire wheel on aluminum, too easy to make a mistake. Brass brushes, and plastic brushes work well.
Even on iron, be careful...
Even on iron, be careful...
04-30-2009, 09:26 AM
#19
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on a 6L....sure you would.
more cubes means you can use a bigger runner....to an extent.
if guys are running reasonable torque with 225cc runners on 346s....why would a 230cc be too much for a 364?
more cubes means you can use a bigger runner....to an extent.
if guys are running reasonable torque with 225cc runners on 346s....why would a 230cc be too much for a 364?
04-30-2009, 09:30 AM
#20
TECH Senior Member
PM Bo White, he still does some work on the side and does really good job. He did a set of 317s for me with stock valves and small runners and they flowed 29x range on all cylinders. Hand porting.