MTBSully

iTrader: (7)

Just picked up a brand new accell cap and rotor kit for dirt cheap today becuase the coil wire terminal on my current cap is corroded to $hit. Car still runs pretty well, but i got this cap and rotor kit new for $20 so i figured why not. Will be doing plugs, wires, o2s and most likely a fuel pump later this week as well. Anyways, anybody have any tips for doing this job? I know to threadlock my rotor screws and put some sealant around the edges. Question is, should i do my best to COMPLETELY seal the opti (minus vac fresh air feed obviously), or would this do more harm than good? Any tips or writeups are appreciated. Thanks guys

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Just did this a couple wknds ago. It's a bastard.

You need a BIG gear puller from the auto parts store to get the damper off...

Other than that, it's pretty straight forward.

PM me if you run into any snags. It helps that its fresh in my mind lol.

latindragons

I didn't need a puller at all to get my damper off at all. I had this flattened crowbar type thing in my garage and applied clockwise pressure to the damper while unbolting the 3 bolts plus 1 center bolt on the damper. Just wiggled it on out.

Make sure you get new water pump gaskets and sealer because that'll have to come off to get to the opti. You'll need a E4 torx socket and a T8 screwdriver to unscrew the cap and remove the rotor. Other than that I can't remember. I seriously just did this yesterday haha.

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

the hardest part is not getting any coolant on the opti to begin with. the hub isnt to bad. you dont have to pull the hub off just the damper i believe. but if you have to then its not so bad. just back the stock bolt out alittle off the hub and use a regular hub puller. once there both out of the way pull the opti. clean it. pull it apart and put it back together. i did the MSD cap and rotor for my 94' this morning and fired my engine back up today. ran real good.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

I just hope that Accel cap and rotor works out for you. I've heard about bad experiences with those things. But maybe since it's just the cap and rotor and not the optical unit it will work. Either way good luck and you can knock it out in a day.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You don't need to remove the center crank bolt to remove the damper.

Additionally, it is advisable to use nothing but a puller to remove the damper. Depending on how you pry on it, you risk seperating the inner ring from the outer ring (they are held together by a rubber isolation ring).

For reinstallation, I recommend lightly sanding the front of the crank snout (the portion that protrudes into the damper) to assist in reinstallation and removal further down the line.

MTBSully

iTrader: (7)

ive heard bad things about the optical unit as well. But if its just a cap and rotor, i feel like its quality is better than alot of other units out there(Nice brass contacts like that of the MSD unit). Plus my current optical unit is a genuine GM one, so i am pretty sure i wont have any issues.

Would it be okay to use a 3 claw puller to get the damper off?

great421

iTrader: (1)

FYI - My 96's damper (dampener???) was, by virtue of the bolt holes, set up to only go on one way, so your's may be that design too.

So, don't waste an hour trying to get that 3rd bolt to line up with the wrong hole!

Besides that, IMHO, sealing up the outer portion of the opti couldn't hurt; and using the correct water pump specific non-vucanizing permatex on the WP gaskets is important as well!

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

All dampers are asymmetrical and can only go on one way.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Yeah, that's what I use. Just be sure that you use a socket or some washers or something so that you are pushing on the crank snout face, and not damaging any of the threads in the crank.

Yeah sealing the opti never hurts.

I alway install my water pump gaskets dry, done it countless number of times on my cars and friends cars and I have never had a problem with leaks.

+1.