how much clearance with ms3?
#1
how much clearance with ms3?
I'm thinkin about just thowin in the ms3 I have but want to make sure it will clear. When I got my motor rebuilt they cleaned up the head surface and slightly milled them .010-.020 max and am concerned about ptv. 241 heads ms3 112lsa
#6
TECH Senior Member
This is a fairly easy write up.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/fundamenta...ve/index.shtml
There is also the use of a dial indicator, but for poeple with minimum tools that one above works pretty well.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/fundamenta...ve/index.shtml
There is also the use of a dial indicator, but for poeple with minimum tools that one above works pretty well.
#7
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time for a writeup on this,too many people asking and wondering what there clearances are.No one can tell you,you have to measure.There are two methods that i know about,the clay method,and the feeler gauge method.The feeler gauges can be replaced with a dial indicator for slightly more accuracy,but feeler gauges will tell you pretty close to where you are.
what you will need .adjustable pushrod,lightweight checker springs-(sometimes you can take apart your toilet paper holder and use that spring)
and lastly some flat feeler gauges,or a dial indicator to replace the feeler gauges.and lastly a micrometer.You can get a digital micrometer for 30 or 40 bucks at pepboys/advanced auto
First replace the valve spring with the lightweight spring,and then replace your pushrod with the adjustable one,and reinstall the rocker arm.You want to take the slack out with the adjustable pushrod,but dont let it open the valve at all,just set it to zero lash.Now with everything in place when you turn the motor over the lifter will not compress at all by using the lightweight checker spring,this is good.
Checking the intake valve is in first order.Start with the intake valve fully closed-and take your flat feeler gauges and put some of them together until you have .080 thousands of an inch.Then place the feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve tip.All you are doing is opening the valve .080 more then it should be,so as you rotate the engine over BY HAND,you will be able to see if it hits.So with the valve fully closed,slowly start rotating the engine again by hand until you see the lifter and valve start to open,turn just a little bit at a time and keep checking to see how much room you have by carefully pushing down on the rocker just over the roller/valve.The intake valve will be closest at the beginning of its opening phase.If you have what seems like a lot of room using .080,then add some more feelers until you have .100 and turn it over a few more times slowly to check it.
Do the same for the exhaust valve,which will be closest just before it closes.
If you happen to have a dial indicator you can place that on the top of the valve retainer ,instead of using the feeler gauges.Hope this helps.
If you do the clay method you have to pull the heads and you need modeling clay-Not playdoe.Its more work and not as accurate.
Someone correct me if i missed something.
what you will need .adjustable pushrod,lightweight checker springs-(sometimes you can take apart your toilet paper holder and use that spring)
and lastly some flat feeler gauges,or a dial indicator to replace the feeler gauges.and lastly a micrometer.You can get a digital micrometer for 30 or 40 bucks at pepboys/advanced auto
First replace the valve spring with the lightweight spring,and then replace your pushrod with the adjustable one,and reinstall the rocker arm.You want to take the slack out with the adjustable pushrod,but dont let it open the valve at all,just set it to zero lash.Now with everything in place when you turn the motor over the lifter will not compress at all by using the lightweight checker spring,this is good.
Checking the intake valve is in first order.Start with the intake valve fully closed-and take your flat feeler gauges and put some of them together until you have .080 thousands of an inch.Then place the feeler gauge between the rocker and the valve tip.All you are doing is opening the valve .080 more then it should be,so as you rotate the engine over BY HAND,you will be able to see if it hits.So with the valve fully closed,slowly start rotating the engine again by hand until you see the lifter and valve start to open,turn just a little bit at a time and keep checking to see how much room you have by carefully pushing down on the rocker just over the roller/valve.The intake valve will be closest at the beginning of its opening phase.If you have what seems like a lot of room using .080,then add some more feelers until you have .100 and turn it over a few more times slowly to check it.
Do the same for the exhaust valve,which will be closest just before it closes.
If you happen to have a dial indicator you can place that on the top of the valve retainer ,instead of using the feeler gauges.Hope this helps.
If you do the clay method you have to pull the heads and you need modeling clay-Not playdoe.Its more work and not as accurate.
Someone correct me if i missed something.
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#10
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#11
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.010-.020" is a pretty wide measurement. Take a pair of cal. & measure the head bolt height from the deck next to the exhaust ports. They stock heads measure about 1.615" This will tell you how much they're milled & help a lot.
__________________
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
Jason
Co-Owner, Texas Speed & Performance, Ltd.
2005 Twin Turbo C6
404cid Stroker, 67mm Twins
994rwhp/902lb ft @ 22 psi (mustang dyno) www.Texas-Speed.com
#14
I had assumed that I had plenty of PTV with a patriot 226 camshaft and didnt check.. well if I had checked, I would have known somewhere between lining it up dot to dot and bolting everything back up, it got moved a few teeth!!
CHECK THAT ****!!
CHECK THAT ****!!