what oil with cammed ls1??
05-06-2009, 11:11 PM
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what oil with cammed ls1?? all my motors life (for all 12k of it) I have ran Mobil 1 10w30 and now since I have my MS3 installed with ported LS6 oil pump and upgraded valve train, what motor oil weight would you guys recommend?? I dont beat the **** out of my car, but I do some very spirited runs very often
05-07-2009, 07:40 PM
#4
i would go with a 5w-30 other than mobil-1. just make sure to change it every 2500-3000 miles and you should be good. i may use the pennzoil full synthetic next oil change. right now i have castrol syntec in it. from what ive read mobil-1 isnt that good.
05-07-2009, 08:00 PM
#6
Well, there's only one thing you can do, like I have with my STILL 100% perfectly running 427ci LS6 fully forged engine with 116,000 miles as of last week
.......change your oil every 3,000 miles, PERIOD.All the hype with bullshit synthetics and expensive aftermarket oils and these special super-duper oil filters, is just that...bullshit.
Also, letting oil stay in your engine for 5,000-7,000 miles, IN MY OPINION, is just about hilarious. Regardless of these oil analysis people have done
You can listen to everyone and all the write-ups about oils lasting for 7,000 miles with no problem, but the fact is oil gets contaminated the second you start your engine with new oil in it and it just keeps getting dirtier and dirtier till you change it. It gets contaminated with toxic gases as well as particles of metal and other debris that the engine gives off.If I were you I would use 20w50. Regular oil, GTX Castrol. Purolater of AC Delco filters. At each oil change use a can of engine flush for 5 minutes before you drain the old oil. Engine flush is key.
Now get ready for 10 pages of fighting and people telling you how they change it every 7,000 miles. These will be the same people back here asking what that ticking noise is after 30,000, or why does my oil pressure drop so low after warm-up with just 60,000 miles (mine is 58psi at start-up and will never ever drop below 40psi, unless its literally a 95* day, in heavy traffic, with my A/C blasting for 1 hour), or why did I spin a bearing man?
Oil is one of those things that is "to-each-his-own". But I know what works and gets my BUILT STROKER engines as well as ALL my cars over the past 25 years, well past 100,000 every time, without any issues at all. Unlike anyone else I know with a fully built badass engine.
Last edited by LS6427; 05-07-2009 at 08:06 PM.
05-07-2009, 08:22 PM
#7
all my motors life (for all 12k of it) I have ran Mobil 1 10w30 and now since I have my MS3 installed with ported LS6 oil pump and upgraded valve train, what motor oil weight would you guys recommend?? I dont beat the **** out of my car, but I do some very spirited runs very often
This is JUST an example of how always having clean/new oil lubricating an engine as compared to the same exact engine that only does oil changes at certain time intervals, has a different life-span.
CJ610 General Electric turbine engine. Its used on the Learjet 23/ 24 / 25 aircraft. They get oil changes at certain intervals as regular maintenance just like a car does. These same exact engines are used to pump oil through the Alaskan pipeline for thousands of miles. They are placed at different distances along the entire pipeline. These engines on the pipeline have a constant flow of new oil through them. They run, non-stop for up to 10 years as long as they don't show any warning lights. When used on the aircraft, they must be rebuilt every 5,000 hours per GE. So, with new oil going through them, they run for 10 years, which is 87,600 hours. Now, yes, its much more important to have an engine rebuilt when peoples lives are on the line, but that doesn't change the fact that they run for 10 years in Alaska. I have flown in and seen Lears go up to about 8,000 hours and the engines are so tired and worn out that you cannot get to altitude without compressor stalling them. So they do last longer in planes, beyond the 5,000 rebuild recomendation, but not much longer.
So, you tell me whats better. Changes every 3,000 or every 7,000. Its all about wear. If you can slow the wear process, you get longer life. Its simple. And that is the ONLY thing that determines how long an engine lives, the ONLY thing. ((Given that the engine is built properly of course))
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05-07-2009, 09:38 PM
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German Castrol 0W30 (HAS TO BE THE GERMAN/EUROPEAN FORMULA VERSION). Not sure how this oil is different to every other brand and type of oil out there and why only this specific type is so special but i constantly hear about it on this thread and other websites and car owners as well. I hear that in real world tests AND data lab tests it pretty much is the best or near the top in just about all categories.
05-07-2009, 10:46 PM
#11
recommend: being in ny, if it's a summer car and isn't going to see a cold start under 50F then for wear protection run a 15w40. i prefer mobil delvac over chevron delo or rotella, only because it's cheaper. It all comes down to oil temperature! The smartest thing you could do is install an oil temperature gauge so you know what the oil temperature is when you do you're spirited driving, then you can properly choose an oil viscosity for that operating condition.
read here for common sense explanation
https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...motor-oil.html
Last edited by 1 FMF; 05-07-2009 at 10:55 PM.
05-07-2009, 11:00 PM
#12
too bad they lost the ******* war
i am amazed at the amount of gullibility and people's false rationalizations these days.
Let me let everyone in on something: people lie. They will call it marketing, but i call it lies.
05-07-2009, 11:21 PM
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Oh man, here we go.
Well, there's only one thing you can do, like I have with my STILL 100% perfectly running 427ci LS6 fully forged engine with 116,000 miles as of last week .......change your oil every 3,000 miles, PERIOD.
All the hype with bullshit synthetics and expensive aftermarket oils and these special super-duper oil filters, is just that...bullshit.
Also, letting oil stay in your engine for 5,000-7,000 miles, IN MY OPINION, is just about hilarious. Regardless of these oil analysis people have done You can listen to everyone and all the write-ups about oils lasting for 7,000 miles with no problem, but the fact is oil gets contaminated the second you start your engine with new oil in it and it just keeps getting dirtier and dirtier till you change it. It gets contaminated with toxic gases as well as particles of metal and other debris that the engine gives off.
If I were you I would use 20w50. Regular oil, GTX Castrol. Purolater of AC Delco filters. At each oil change use a can of engine flush for 5 minutes before you drain the old oil. Engine flush is key.
Now get ready for 10 pages of fighting and people telling you how they change it every 7,000 miles. These will be the same people back here asking what that ticking noise is after 30,000, or why does my oil pressure drop so low after warm-up with just 60,000 miles (mine is 58psi at start-up and will never ever drop below 40psi, unless its literally a 95* day, in heavy traffic, with my A/C blasting for 1 hour), or why did I spin a bearing man?
Oil is one of those things that is "to-each-his-own". But I know what works and gets my BUILT STROKER engines as well as ALL my cars over the past 25 years, well past 100,000 every time, without any issues at all. Unlike anyone else I know with a fully built badass engine.
Well, there's only one thing you can do, like I have with my STILL 100% perfectly running 427ci LS6 fully forged engine with 116,000 miles as of last week
.......change your oil every 3,000 miles, PERIOD.All the hype with bullshit synthetics and expensive aftermarket oils and these special super-duper oil filters, is just that...bullshit.
Also, letting oil stay in your engine for 5,000-7,000 miles, IN MY OPINION, is just about hilarious. Regardless of these oil analysis people have done
You can listen to everyone and all the write-ups about oils lasting for 7,000 miles with no problem, but the fact is oil gets contaminated the second you start your engine with new oil in it and it just keeps getting dirtier and dirtier till you change it. It gets contaminated with toxic gases as well as particles of metal and other debris that the engine gives off.If I were you I would use 20w50. Regular oil, GTX Castrol. Purolater of AC Delco filters. At each oil change use a can of engine flush for 5 minutes before you drain the old oil. Engine flush is key.
Now get ready for 10 pages of fighting and people telling you how they change it every 7,000 miles. These will be the same people back here asking what that ticking noise is after 30,000, or why does my oil pressure drop so low after warm-up with just 60,000 miles (mine is 58psi at start-up and will never ever drop below 40psi, unless its literally a 95* day, in heavy traffic, with my A/C blasting for 1 hour), or why did I spin a bearing man?
Oil is one of those things that is "to-each-his-own". But I know what works and gets my BUILT STROKER engines as well as ALL my cars over the past 25 years, well past 100,000 every time, without any issues at all. Unlike anyone else I know with a fully built badass engine.
I am fully aware what oils can do etc...I took auto tech for 3 years so I kind of know my ****...Im just trying to see what motor oil weight others are using.
05-07-2009, 11:25 PM
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I know its a different type of engine, but it still needs oil for lubrication.
This is JUST an example of how always having clean/new oil lubricating an engine as compared to the same exact engine that only does oil changes at certain time intervals, has a different life-span.
CJ610 General Electric turbine engine. Its used on the Learjet 23/ 24 / 25 aircraft. They get oil changes at certain intervals as regular maintenance just like a car does. These same exact engines are used to pump oil through the Alaskan pipeline for thousands of miles. They are placed at different distances along the entire pipeline. These engines on the pipeline have a constant flow of new oil through them. They run, non-stop for up to 10 years as long as they don't show any warning lights. When used on the aircraft, they must be rebuilt every 5,000 hours per GE. So, with new oil going through them, they run for 10 years, which is 87,600 hours. Now, yes, its much more important to have an engine rebuilt when peoples lives are on the line, but that doesn't change the fact that they run for 10 years in Alaska. I have flown in and seen Lears go up to about 8,000 hours and the engines are so tired and worn out that you cannot get to altitude without compressor stalling them. So they do last longer in planes, beyond the 5,000 rebuild recomendation, but not much longer.
So, you tell me whats better. Changes every 3,000 or every 7,000. Its all about wear. If you can slow the wear process, you get longer life. Its simple. And that is the ONLY thing that determines how long an engine lives, the ONLY thing. ((Given that the engine is built properly of course))
This is JUST an example of how always having clean/new oil lubricating an engine as compared to the same exact engine that only does oil changes at certain time intervals, has a different life-span.
CJ610 General Electric turbine engine. Its used on the Learjet 23/ 24 / 25 aircraft. They get oil changes at certain intervals as regular maintenance just like a car does. These same exact engines are used to pump oil through the Alaskan pipeline for thousands of miles. They are placed at different distances along the entire pipeline. These engines on the pipeline have a constant flow of new oil through them. They run, non-stop for up to 10 years as long as they don't show any warning lights. When used on the aircraft, they must be rebuilt every 5,000 hours per GE. So, with new oil going through them, they run for 10 years, which is 87,600 hours. Now, yes, its much more important to have an engine rebuilt when peoples lives are on the line, but that doesn't change the fact that they run for 10 years in Alaska. I have flown in and seen Lears go up to about 8,000 hours and the engines are so tired and worn out that you cannot get to altitude without compressor stalling them. So they do last longer in planes, beyond the 5,000 rebuild recomendation, but not much longer.
So, you tell me whats better. Changes every 3,000 or every 7,000. Its all about wear. If you can slow the wear process, you get longer life. Its simple. And that is the ONLY thing that determines how long an engine lives, the ONLY thing. ((Given that the engine is built properly of course))
my motor is a brand new crate LS1 long block from GM....professionally installed at a GM dealer...then my cam/valvetrain etc was installed by sickspeedperformance.com whose a very good mechanic and was also dyno tuned the day after the cam install so I havent cheaped out on anything so its done right
05-10-2009, 10:09 PM
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yeah, because it's like vince says, you know the germans make good stuff.
too bad they lost the ******* war
i am amazed at the amount of gullibility and people's false rationalizations these days.
Let me let everyone in on something: people lie. They will call it marketing, but i call it lies.
too bad they lost the ******* war
i am amazed at the amount of gullibility and people's false rationalizations these days.
Let me let everyone in on something: people lie. They will call it marketing, but i call it lies.
05-10-2009, 11:22 PM
#16
If 3 people with 3 identically built engines from the same builder use different oils...say 10w30, 10w40 and 20w50. All these engines will be protected just fine with all 3 oils. If one does changes at 3,000, one does them at 5,000 and the other at 8,000........the person that does changes at 3,000 will have the best reliability and longest life. I don't see how anyone can intelligently argue that point.
So the choice of oil is yours. I like 20w50 because it maintains higher oil pressure (its thicker then 30 and 40 weight oil) when hotter then the other weights, and it will break down less over time, so you will have better functioning oil till the next oil change.
Its just what I do
05-12-2009, 07:01 PM
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I personally use German Castrol 0w30...I only drive the car maybe 5000 miles a year at most, and I change my oil at the beginning of May and at the end of October.
05-27-2009, 12:26 PM
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Also, letting oil stay in your engine for 5,000-7,000 miles, IN MY OPINION, is just about hilarious. Regardless of these oil analysis people have done You can listen to everyone and all the write-ups about oils lasting for 7,000 miles with no problem, but the fact is oil gets contaminated the second you start your engine with new oil in it and it just keeps getting dirtier and dirtier till you change it. It gets contaminated with toxic gases as well as particles of metal and other debris that the engine gives off.
You can listen to everyone and all the write-ups about oils lasting for 7,000 miles with no problem, but the fact is oil gets contaminated the second you start your engine with new oil in it and it just keeps getting dirtier and dirtier till you change it. It gets contaminated with toxic gases as well as particles of metal and other debris that the engine gives off.What I am going to disagree with you about is the fact used oil is dirtier then new oil. That is COMPLETELY false.
New oil will come in anywhere from a 22/20/18 ISO4406:99 cleanliness class which is DIRTY. Then your filter will clean up the oil after it has passed through several times. It "looks" dirtier due to the soot, but that soot is sub-micron and will not really cause that much wear.
What happens with used oil is the additives break down over time, that's where the problem is. As long as your filter isn't clogged and bypassing "dirt" wise your used oil will be cleaner then what you poured out of the jug.
There's a reason truck fleets go to extended intervals (15-30k). It's not because they are trying to save money on oil (longer lasting synthetic oils are more expensive anyways). It's because everytime you put new oil in the engine, there is a spike in engine wear until the filter cleans it up.