Trev_SS

iTrader: (17)

Ok so after fixing all the flaws and ready to go ahead put the head back on the car and get things going good again. I put all the bolts in the head and tighten them down. I go to break out the torque wrench set it at 22ft-lbs. I go to the first bolt on the whole bolt diagram. I am wrenching it and it is just spinning. I know in my head **** so I stop. I go to take the bolt back out and figure out what the heck. I pull the bolt out to find the threads from the block are wrapped around the bolt. I know that I am fugged at this point. I don't want to try this again. So I stop and take the head back off. I take my bolt and can thread it all the way and pull and its in there snug. I can't pull it out i don't try and torque it down because I don't want to strip the rest of the threads out. I have searched and searched threw the boards and can not find anything good except that maybe I need the "time-sert". I need the best advice that I can get on this. I am very nervous and don't understand why that this happend. I don't want to have to get a new block at this point. I know I am going to need get something. My question will a heli coil hold the head bolt in? I also need to know what the thread pattern is for this also. Thanks for all the help with this but I am just totally lost here. Thanks Trevor

LCplmarine98

iTrader: (9)

Get a tap and die and chase the threads, first after that if they are fucked, go to a machine shop and see what they say.

Trev_SS

iTrader: (17)

The threads are not cross threaded they are stripping out. as I go to torque down the bolt the bolt just spins. and when I pull it out the threads are wrapped around the bolt.

SELLSZ06

iTrader: (12)

you said "bolt hole". thats always funny to me.

I've done that and freaked out too, if you have a good machine shop take it to them and they will helicoil it. Or you can do it yourself by buying it at a auto store, but the machine shop I did mine with seemed a lot more heavier duty than the ones they sell at the store. its a pretty quick fix and not expensive. just take your time with them

And you might want to use studs too, they are a little more forgiving than screws.

oldschoolnewschool

^^ +1 yupp a machine shop could do it in less than an hour. The thing i would make sure that if you do it yourself is you get the right angle into the block so the head bolt properly torques down. then your good to go

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

It is an 11mm with a 2.0 pitch. I had the same problem, my old mechanic stripped out the hole. The tap was special order and cost over $100. I just tapped out the hole to a 1/2 inch and had a custom stud made. It has held so far at over 600 rwhp. I read somewhere that ARP has the same stud size I used for a viper motor.

Trev_SS

iTrader: (17)

I will probally just go with a bigger bolt hole and tap it for a bigger hole. thanks for the help guys any other options open thanks trevor

TPRDFW

iTrader: (9)

i agree

nastychevelle

iTrader: (7)

if i were you i'd get the block machined for 1/2" studs but if you dont wantto do that a helicoil is always an option

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

The GM Service Manual tells you how to correct this with a helicoil. A Keensert will require a much larger hole be drilled, I personally wouldn't go that route on a block. For example, one of the items we are working with right now has a 1/4-20 Keensert in it but the outer thread requires was 11/16-14.

Trev_SS

iTrader: (17)

where do I get access to a gm service manual? Also where can I get a helicoil for the right threads? Thanks

vaticano

iTrader: (8)

GM has a kit for $500.
J-42385-100

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

Timeserts are about $120.00

http://www.timesert.com/


.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Since the threaded portion of the hole is a few inches below the surface how can these be used?

Mssingkid

iTrader: (7)

Had something similar happen. Machine Shop was able to HeliCoil it. Cost about 75 bucks.. but my motor was out of the car.. GL

DaddySS

Doing a helicoil is simple, easy and relatively inexpensive. The helicoil threads are stronger than standard and you should have no problems.

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

That's a fair question vettenuts...
I've used the time-serts for other applications, other than LSX head bolts.

These links might be helpful to Trev_SS.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3998&viewitem=

http://www.timesert.com/html/gen3HEA...structions.pdf

The concerns I've thought of ... For an F-body ...
Its seems like it would be a tight fit for a drill near the cowl area.
With the motor in the car.



.

DaddySS

is it m11 x 1.5 or m11 x 2.0?

vsocks1

iTrader: (6)

I believe it is M11 x 2.0

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

How many threads are damaged? If you use an insert you need to make sure the insert threads are indexed to the remaining undamaged threads. A stud might be a good choise for this one fastener. How did this fastener feel when it was removed to take the heads off? Did you "feel" anything different about the way it came out? Did you buy this motor second hand? It may have already been damaged by the time you pulled the heads off. You don't have to be a surgeon to tear a motor apart and put it back together, but you do have to have a certain degree of sensitivity in your hands and finger when installing and removing fasteners to be able to tell when something isn't right like a fastner is cross threaded. This is the kind of thing that is hard to explain to someone else, but if you don't understand the concept you can do major damage.