About time i posted my build (APS Build)
06-17-2009, 01:13 PM
#1
About time i posted my build (APS Build) ---ENGINE---
ERL LS3 block (superdeck one with 4 bolt per cylinder)
Callies Drangonslayer crank
Oliver Billet rods
Wiseco pistons with top coated
total seal rings
DM performance stud gurdle
Dowel pined Billet main caps. with ARP main studs
AFR 225 heads hand ported by tony M with upgrade valves and springs.
L19 head studs (bad ***)
LS9 head gasket
clevlit bearings (rod, crank, and cam)
rollermaster genIV timing chain
234/228 on a 117lsa cam
LS2 Ported intake( hope to have new fibertuned or willson by turbo time)
92mm TB
yella terra 1.7 rockers
chromoly push rods.(changing to 3/8 pushrods for turbos)
motive lifters(i think that is brand)
ASP dampiner
LT1 radiator
granitelli wires
evans water pump and few little things
---TRANY---
McLeod twin disk
TR6060 (T-56 magnum)
GM slave
Tick Master
---REAREND---
midwest 9" with 35 spline and wavetrac
---SUSPENION---
-front-
UMI kmember
UMI upper and lower a-arms
strange single adjust coil over
UMI hollow sway bar(not bought yet)
-rear-
DKT LCA
Midwest WATTS
strange coil-over conversion
UMI hollow sway bar(not bought yet)
---Fuel system---
aluminum tank
custom single 255 in tank. and 2 bosch 044 in tank
5/8" feed and return line (-10 AN)
160 or 180 lb injectors
aem high to low conversion box
(lots of thanks from lonnies)
---Turbo System---
APS turbo F-body turbo kit
with upgrade ballbearing turbos @ 65lb min
also going to add scavenger pump
---ok, i am planing around 1000 wheel horse. which if i do the number right and i say i lose 20% through drive train we are at 1200ish for fly wheel. then add in 30% more for e85 consumption. that is like 1500-1600 fuel system. i have thought about 160lb inject with like 38 base fuel pressure for easy tuning. or go to 180 for just a little bit more safe at 1000 horse. i want safe but i want drive able. i am hoping for 650-850 wheel for the street. and the 1000 plus just for track and dyno.
----let me know what you think of the build. i got a lot of money in it. but i want it to last.
ERL LS3 block (superdeck one with 4 bolt per cylinder)
Callies Drangonslayer crank
Oliver Billet rods
Wiseco pistons with top coated
total seal rings
DM performance stud gurdle
Dowel pined Billet main caps. with ARP main studs
AFR 225 heads hand ported by tony M with upgrade valves and springs.
L19 head studs (bad ***)
LS9 head gasket
clevlit bearings (rod, crank, and cam)
rollermaster genIV timing chain
234/228 on a 117lsa cam
LS2 Ported intake( hope to have new fibertuned or willson by turbo time)
92mm TB
yella terra 1.7 rockers
chromoly push rods.(changing to 3/8 pushrods for turbos)
motive lifters(i think that is brand)
ASP dampiner
LT1 radiator
granitelli wires
evans water pump and few little things
---TRANY---
McLeod twin disk
TR6060 (T-56 magnum)
GM slave
Tick Master
---REAREND---
midwest 9" with 35 spline and wavetrac
---SUSPENION---
-front-
UMI kmember
UMI upper and lower a-arms
strange single adjust coil over
UMI hollow sway bar(not bought yet)
-rear-
DKT LCA
Midwest WATTS
strange coil-over conversion
UMI hollow sway bar(not bought yet)
---Fuel system---
aluminum tank
custom single 255 in tank. and 2 bosch 044 in tank
5/8" feed and return line (-10 AN)
160 or 180 lb injectors
aem high to low conversion box
(lots of thanks from lonnies)
---Turbo System---
APS turbo F-body turbo kit
with upgrade ballbearing turbos @ 65lb min
also going to add scavenger pump
---ok, i am planing around 1000 wheel horse. which if i do the number right and i say i lose 20% through drive train we are at 1200ish for fly wheel. then add in 30% more for e85 consumption. that is like 1500-1600 fuel system. i have thought about 160lb inject with like 38 base fuel pressure for easy tuning. or go to 180 for just a little bit more safe at 1000 horse. i want safe but i want drive able. i am hoping for 650-850 wheel for the street. and the 1000 plus just for track and dyno.
----let me know what you think of the build. i got a lot of money in it. but i want it to last.
Last edited by Big_Bird_WS6; 04-12-2010 at 12:44 PM.
06-17-2009, 01:46 PM
#2
I am no expert and I don't claim to be. Everything I know comes from my own personal car. I personally would probably direct you away from the AEM box like I have. It was a pita to tune to idle, however I did get it done and running well with 96lb injectors. I can only imagine what it would be like with 160-180lbers. If I had it to do all over again (especially since you have so much invested in the rest of the car) I would do BIG STUFF and run 2 sets of injectors....thats just me though and again I am no expert.
06-17-2009, 02:08 PM
#3
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i was thinking i spent alot of $$$$$ i was wrong LOL
when will it be up and running?
need pics as well
i have my 70lbs coming with my LS2 as well i hope to be around the same level as well
keep us post bro
when will it be up and running?
need pics as well
i have my 70lbs coming with my LS2 as well i hope to be around the same level as well
keep us post bro
06-17-2009, 02:14 PM
#4
Sounds like a wicked build up. Definitely going the full 9 yards. I don't think a lot of it is necessary to hit the stated power levels and likely would have went in some different directions but of course everyone has their own vision of what they want.
Best of luck and looking foward to watching this build as it progresses. All I will add is that even with my built 408 with same heads and my aps kit at standard 7.5psi and even with my direct port not even operational yet since still have to wire it in my car is already pretty stupidly fast on the street . I estimate 650rwhp or so and that is more than have ever had in a street car previously. It comes in super fast with the smaller standard turbos and while it might drop down top end it still has enough grunt up there to turn most of the people that get rides in it white with fear.
Traction in current nittos is very hard to come by with only the higher gears having some.
I also would like to see 1000rwhp maybe for dyno braggin rights mostly. And in my car it would be a combination of boost and small shot of spray. That way don't need high boost and don't need big shot. May still upgrade over winter to LG or BB turbos like you are getting? Or may just run the standards or my ebay backups for a year or so.
So far they are working fine although still running oil cooling only water cooling is not connnected. No smoking out the back no funny noises just quick spool up.
Going to scavenger pump anyway cheap enough to do .
Anyway take lots of pics Big Bird! And prepare to be scared when you get it all running and go wot the first time!
I am a bit confused though. Do you already have a base kit? Cause if not then would think the upgraded kit might be fine. Course BB turbos will spool up quicker and with stick will stay spooled up between shifts better. You may not need scavenger pump as much with bb turbos. They use very little oil compared to standard ones. You usually need restrictors for BB turbos.I have a gt35R basically on my 97 talon.
I think 120s will idle fine in low impedence.Mine did but had cam sensor intermittent failure problem and with that they wouldn't. So thew in 60 high for temp as if still had problem they would run and woudn't need a flatbed. Going back to my low or up to 80 high imp soon.
Your sizes stated of course are for e85. I wish could get e85 here but we don't have it.
Whole country has like three stations! Sucks as it is the hotness for FI cars.
So did you go ls3 for weight reasons? I am wondering if should have went LSX with 6 bolt heads but think will be ok at my planned power levels. And can always go bigger next time if this engine comes out.
Best of luck and looking foward to watching this build as it progresses. All I will add is that even with my built 408 with same heads and my aps kit at standard 7.5psi and even with my direct port not even operational yet since still have to wire it in my car is already pretty stupidly fast on the street . I estimate 650rwhp or so and that is more than have ever had in a street car previously. It comes in super fast with the smaller standard turbos and while it might drop down top end it still has enough grunt up there to turn most of the people that get rides in it white with fear.
Traction in current nittos is very hard to come by with only the higher gears having some.
I also would like to see 1000rwhp maybe for dyno braggin rights mostly. And in my car it would be a combination of boost and small shot of spray. That way don't need high boost and don't need big shot. May still upgrade over winter to LG or BB turbos like you are getting? Or may just run the standards or my ebay backups for a year or so.
So far they are working fine although still running oil cooling only water cooling is not connnected. No smoking out the back no funny noises just quick spool up.
Going to scavenger pump anyway cheap enough to do .
Anyway take lots of pics Big Bird! And prepare to be scared when you get it all running and go wot the first time!
I am a bit confused though. Do you already have a base kit? Cause if not then would think the upgraded kit might be fine. Course BB turbos will spool up quicker and with stick will stay spooled up between shifts better. You may not need scavenger pump as much with bb turbos. They use very little oil compared to standard ones. You usually need restrictors for BB turbos.I have a gt35R basically on my 97 talon.
I think 120s will idle fine in low impedence.Mine did but had cam sensor intermittent failure problem and with that they wouldn't. So thew in 60 high for temp as if still had problem they would run and woudn't need a flatbed. Going back to my low or up to 80 high imp soon.
Your sizes stated of course are for e85. I wish could get e85 here but we don't have it.
Whole country has like three stations! Sucks as it is the hotness for FI cars.
So did you go ls3 for weight reasons? I am wondering if should have went LSX with 6 bolt heads but think will be ok at my planned power levels. And can always go bigger next time if this engine comes out.
06-17-2009, 02:15 PM
#5
I am no expert and I don't claim to be. Everything I know comes from my own personal car. I personally would probably direct you away from the AEM box like I have. It was a pita to tune to idle, however I did get it done and running well with 96lb injectors. I can only imagine what it would be like with 160-180lbers. If I had it to do all over again (especially since you have so much invested in the rest of the car) I would do BIG STUFF and run 2 sets of injectors....thats just me though and again I am no expert.
and tuning i have a few guys that say they can tune it for me. that is all that counts.
tomz28
i hope to have it running in about two weeks with out turbos. then 1000 miles later( in one week end,
) put turbos on.
06-17-2009, 02:21 PM
#6
Hey Tom get that camera buddy and send those scavenger pump pics! LOL
I am doing little stuff to the 99 mostly now. So far no spyhunter from my standard turbos. But not even staying at full boost that long. Need to find some really empty roads! and need better tires first!
At least should see a few of you guys get the upgraded turbos from LG or the billet ones Big bird is getting and see some numbers from them. I can do them over the winter unless the standard ones don't last till then.
You guys are nuts though. Right now I am finding 650rwhp? plenty plenty around town.
I can incinerate the nittos at will even with temps in the 80s. I have seen zero overheating in city traffic either. Just running water wetter, 160 stat, fans come on low.Made sure to do the airflow mods as per manual. So far so good.
I will be taking some video with new camera in a week or so. Want to pretty up car a bit first. Finish emblems ,stripes. Put interior back together after do the auto swap.so much wiring to do.
Anyway you guys are going to have some killer rides! I really like my TT and can hardly wait to start hittting it with even small shots of spray.White knuckle ride for sure.
I am doing little stuff to the 99 mostly now. So far no spyhunter from my standard turbos. But not even staying at full boost that long. Need to find some really empty roads! and need better tires first!
At least should see a few of you guys get the upgraded turbos from LG or the billet ones Big bird is getting and see some numbers from them. I can do them over the winter unless the standard ones don't last till then.
You guys are nuts though. Right now I am finding 650rwhp? plenty plenty around town.
I can incinerate the nittos at will even with temps in the 80s. I have seen zero overheating in city traffic either. Just running water wetter, 160 stat, fans come on low.Made sure to do the airflow mods as per manual. So far so good.
I will be taking some video with new camera in a week or so. Want to pretty up car a bit first. Finish emblems ,stripes. Put interior back together after do the auto swap.so much wiring to do.
Anyway you guys are going to have some killer rides! I really like my TT and can hardly wait to start hittting it with even small shots of spray.White knuckle ride for sure.
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06-17-2009, 02:23 PM
#8
Sounds like a wicked build up. Definitely going the full 9 yards. I don't think a lot of it is necessary to hit the stated power levels and likely would have went in some different directions but of course everyone has their own vision of what they want. yeah, looking back i would have done a few things different. but i wanted a tank that would last for ever. lol
Best of luck and looking foward to watching this build as it progresses. All I will add is that even with my built 408 with same heads and my aps kit at standard 7.5psi and even with my direct port not even operational yet since still have to wire it in my car is already pretty stupidly fast on the street . I estimate 650rwhp or so and that is more than have ever had in a street car previously. It comes in super fast with the smaller standard turbos and while it might drop down top end it still has enough grunt up there to turn most of the people that get rides in it white with fear.
Traction in current nittos is very hard to come by with only the higher gears having some.
I also would like to see 1000rwhp maybe for dyno braggin rights mostly. And in my car it would be a combination of boost and small shot of spray. That way don't need high boost and don't need big shot. May still upgrade over winter to LG or BB turbos like you are getting? Or may just run the standards or my ebay backups for a year or so.
So far they are working fine although still running oil cooling only water cooling is not connnected. No smoking out the back no funny noises just quick spool up.
Going to scavenger pump anyway cheap enough to do .
Anyway take lots of pics Big Bird! And prepare to be scared when you get it all running and go wot the first time!
I am a bit confused though. Do you already have a base kit?yes i already had the kit. was getting ready to put it on my stock motor when **** broke on it. so just went with a build Cause if not then would think the upgraded kit might be fine. Course BB turbos will spool up quicker and with stick will stay spooled up between shifts better. You may not need scavenger pump as much with bb turbos.didnt know this. maybe i will talk to louis about the z06 turbos and see if he adds pumps to them They use very little oil compared to standard ones. You usually need restrictors for BB turbos.I have a gt35R basically on my 97 talon.
I think 120s will idle fine in low impedence.Mine did but had cam sensor intermittent failure problem and with that they wouldn't. So thew in 60 high for temp as if still had problem they would run and woudn't need a flatbed. Going back to my low or up to 80 high imp soon.
Your sizes stated of course are for e85. I wish could get e85 here but we don't have it.
Whole country has like three stations! Sucks as it is the hotness for FI cars.
So did you go ls3 for weight reasons?yeah i wanted to keep weight done. i like to go fast straight and on a curve. so the less weight up front will be better. and i didnt go with 6 bolt blot or heads due to the L19 head studs. that am i am only looking at running 18psi max. I am wondering if should have went LSX with 6 bolt heads but think will be ok at my planned power levels. And can always go bigger next time if this engine comes out.
Best of luck and looking foward to watching this build as it progresses. All I will add is that even with my built 408 with same heads and my aps kit at standard 7.5psi and even with my direct port not even operational yet since still have to wire it in my car is already pretty stupidly fast on the street . I estimate 650rwhp or so and that is more than have ever had in a street car previously. It comes in super fast with the smaller standard turbos and while it might drop down top end it still has enough grunt up there to turn most of the people that get rides in it white with fear.
Traction in current nittos is very hard to come by with only the higher gears having some.
I also would like to see 1000rwhp maybe for dyno braggin rights mostly. And in my car it would be a combination of boost and small shot of spray. That way don't need high boost and don't need big shot. May still upgrade over winter to LG or BB turbos like you are getting? Or may just run the standards or my ebay backups for a year or so.
So far they are working fine although still running oil cooling only water cooling is not connnected. No smoking out the back no funny noises just quick spool up.
Going to scavenger pump anyway cheap enough to do .
Anyway take lots of pics Big Bird! And prepare to be scared when you get it all running and go wot the first time!
I am a bit confused though. Do you already have a base kit?yes i already had the kit. was getting ready to put it on my stock motor when **** broke on it. so just went with a build Cause if not then would think the upgraded kit might be fine. Course BB turbos will spool up quicker and with stick will stay spooled up between shifts better. You may not need scavenger pump as much with bb turbos.didnt know this. maybe i will talk to louis about the z06 turbos and see if he adds pumps to them They use very little oil compared to standard ones. You usually need restrictors for BB turbos.I have a gt35R basically on my 97 talon.
I think 120s will idle fine in low impedence.Mine did but had cam sensor intermittent failure problem and with that they wouldn't. So thew in 60 high for temp as if still had problem they would run and woudn't need a flatbed. Going back to my low or up to 80 high imp soon.
Your sizes stated of course are for e85. I wish could get e85 here but we don't have it.
Whole country has like three stations! Sucks as it is the hotness for FI cars.
So did you go ls3 for weight reasons?yeah i wanted to keep weight done. i like to go fast straight and on a curve. so the less weight up front will be better. and i didnt go with 6 bolt blot or heads due to the L19 head studs. that am i am only looking at running 18psi max. I am wondering if should have went LSX with 6 bolt heads but think will be ok at my planned power levels. And can always go bigger next time if this engine comes out.
^^^ LOOK UP IN bold
also compression should be like 10:1 to 10.2:1
06-17-2009, 02:38 PM
#9
Ok makes sense. I am resigned to heavy car. I have to weigh it soon when have it pretty much done. So far some stuff adds weight like the turbo kit but other things take off weight. I have iron block which is heavy. But then have lighter k member. No cats currently. Chrome moly front sway bar hoping it works ok, its 32mm not 35 like my hotchkis was.
Want to run a front sway!
Then add in the heavier auto trans , big dana and things get porky fast. But whatever car still fraking flies! And not even turned things up yet.
Power can make up for weight. Actually even driving around with no sway bars at all last week or so it handles not too bad. But I have bit of drop and ajustable shocks. Going to stock height though sick of the drop. Too much pain in the butt.
Anyway so are you going to be screwing this monster together soon now?
Want to run a front sway!
Then add in the heavier auto trans , big dana and things get porky fast. But whatever car still fraking flies! And not even turned things up yet.
Power can make up for weight. Actually even driving around with no sway bars at all last week or so it handles not too bad. But I have bit of drop and ajustable shocks. Going to stock height though sick of the drop. Too much pain in the butt.
Anyway so are you going to be screwing this monster together soon now?
06-17-2009, 02:40 PM
#10
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The BS3 would be the ultimate solution, like I told you before, I don't have any experience with trying to tune big injectors with the AEM box and stock PCM.
But with 160's and BS3 and E85, super easy to tune and no problem with idle.
1 set of 160's will be more then enough for you.
But with 160's and BS3 and E85, super easy to tune and no problem with idle.
1 set of 160's will be more then enough for you.
06-17-2009, 02:42 PM
#11
The BS3 would be the ultimate solution, like I told you before, I don't have any experience with trying to tune big injectors with the AEM box and stock PCM.
But with 160's and BS3 and E85, super easy to tune and no problem with idle.
1 set of 160's will be more then enough for you.
But with 160's and BS3 and E85, super easy to tune and no problem with idle.
1 set of 160's will be more then enough for you.
06-17-2009, 03:02 PM
#12
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Yes the gauges and all can work just fine, speed inc has a plug and play harness a little pricey at $500, or a couple wire hookups to get all that to work for free. You might be able to order the BS3 without the wire harness, and get the one from speed inc too.
As far as the traction control it would be better to get the BS3 engine torque management upgrade, its like $550, and gets you the traction control and the 3-step for even better launching at the track.
Way better system then the factory TC.
You will have a little bit of money in doing BS3, but will line up better with your project in the long run.
Where are you located anyways?
As far as the traction control it would be better to get the BS3 engine torque management upgrade, its like $550, and gets you the traction control and the 3-step for even better launching at the track.
Way better system then the factory TC.
You will have a little bit of money in doing BS3, but will line up better with your project in the long run.
Where are you located anyways?
06-17-2009, 05:27 PM
#15
....waiting
The build ups are so much better when there is a ton of good pictures too!...Just like being a child again and needing the pictures to make the story more interesting
Good luck, hope all goes smooth. The LS3 is the new king on the block for power/value ratio it seems. Good choice
06-19-2009, 10:31 AM
#20
first i love afr heads. always had good luck with them. had 3 sets and never a problem.
well afr doesnt have a 6 bolt head. and i am only pushing 18psi max.
i talked to Sean at ERL and he said with the Afr heads and the L19 head studs, i will be fine. (so lets hope so.
)