395 or 383?
06-19-2009, 08:14 PM
#1
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395 or 383? stroker.........which one is the better way to go? does anyone have any experience with this. i am currently running a stock block with a bigger cam, exhaust, larger MAF sensor, etc. with everything i have i am putting down 450 to the ground, and wanting to throw on a supercharger, but since the stock crank and pistons are only rated at around 500 if i put on any kind of boost right now i will blow everything out the bottom end. figured i might as well stroke it since i am already going to change the crank, rods, bearing, piston heads, etc. i am also looking to put a 9 inch in the rear as well as rework and upgrade the tranny. any suggestions? i am looking at Lunati's stroker kits and like them alot. also if any one can let me know what kind of cylinder heads or what kind of compression a set up like this will ru that would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by blondebomber; 06-19-2009 at 08:15 PM. Reason: forgot stuff
06-19-2009, 08:46 PM
#2
The stock ls1 crank is not a weak link, many people have hit the 1,000 hp mark with it. If your set on a stroker I vote 383ci. You'll want the compression around 9/9.5 to 1. GM's 317 casting are 72cc combustion chambers witch will help on a stock bore. Cam spec's???
06-20-2009, 01:47 AM
#3
I have the lunati 395 stroker set up on mine. It's great na and I've spent a ton of money to make it work with N2O but I would not reccomend it at all for boost as there isn't enough piston materal as is and once you put a dished piston in there your asking for trouble with any significant amount of boost. If you want a stroker a 383 is your best bet. But as stated before the stock crank will be able to more than handle what you are planning on doing. Personally if I were you I would build a stock crank ls2 with forged rods and pistons and put ls3 heads on it. The torque that the combo of those heads and that block will make will be close to what a 383 will make and it will make about the same rwhp but be more docile. Then throw your supercharger on and be happy. Also think of it this way. If you are putting 450 to the ground, with a super charger running 8psi, forged internals and slightly lower compression on what you have now you will be putting down around 600rwhp. That's way more than you can handle on the street. That's highway racing because you won't be able to hook up from a dig.
Last edited by Hamrdown; 06-20-2009 at 01:58 AM.
06-20-2009, 02:10 PM
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i bought the car as is now and the guy that had the top end built told me t was a Comp Cam .529 but i dont think this is correct. he wasnt to sure about it since he had all of the work done at Desert Motor Sports in Phoenix. i do know it has a serious lope, so much that when you go to stop the vehicle she wants to jump becuase of the cam lope (she also doesnt like to have the A/C running at a stop, wants to die). i would really like to supercharge it, but i was told by soemone from a diffrent site that my crank wasnt strong enough. i was going to replace the pistons and rods (want forged ones with better rings) and since i was told that the crank was only rated at 500 h/p then i might as well stroke it while i was at it. i can get away with just swapping heads, pistons, and rods then i wll keep the crank i have and go from there. would it be a problem though that the crank isnt filleted? i have heard this is a serious weak point and if i am going to be putting down between 600 and 700 horses then i dont want my pistons to wind up going through my oil pan.
06-20-2009, 02:30 PM
#5
I am running a stock crank with forged rods and pistons no problem. Do a search in the forced induction section the majority of people that have 346/347 ci moters still have a stock crank. My suggestion would be to get forged rods, pistions, new main bearing, main studs, head studs, 72cc heads with a new cam that is blolwer friendly.
06-20-2009, 07:05 PM
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I am running a stock crank with forged rods and pistons no problem. Do a search in the forced induction section the majority of people that have 346/347 ci moters still have a stock crank. My suggestion would be to get forged rods, pistions, new main bearing, main studs, head studs, 72cc heads with a new cam that is blolwer friendly.
06-20-2009, 07:17 PM
#7
Also one more big thing... Do not skimp on the fuel system, With the kind of power you want I would spend the money and get a dual fuel pump set up and 60# injectors min. Running out of fuel will make even the strongest engine go boom in a hurry.
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06-20-2009, 07:47 PM
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thanks conan, i had thought of that, i am thinking of swapping out the cylinder heads and while i am at it i will swap the injectors and the fuel pump. any suggestions on a good high flow fuel pump? also thinking aout going to half inch fuel lines to make sure she doesnt starve herself out. might be over kill right now, but at least i wont have to worry about it. also what kind of heads would you suggest i throw on there. airflow research ad some but i dont know anything about these heads and was wondering if they are any good. AFR 225cc LS1 Mongoose Strip Heads, these are the ones i am looking at. if you have any beter suggestions i am all ears.
06-20-2009, 08:05 PM
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I have the lunati 395 stroker set up on mine. It's great na and I've spent a ton of money to make it work with N2O but I would not reccomend it at all for boost as there isn't enough piston materal as is and once you put a dished piston in there your asking for trouble with any significant amount of boost. If you want a stroker a 383 is your best bet. But as stated before the stock crank will be able to more than handle what you are planning on doing. Personally if I were you I would build a stock crank ls2 with forged rods and pistons and put ls3 heads on it. The torque that the combo of those heads and that block will make will be close to what a 383 will make and it will make about the same rwhp but be more docile. Then throw your supercharger on and be happy. Also think of it this way. If you are putting 450 to the ground, with a super charger running 8psi, forged internals and slightly lower compression on what you have now you will be putting down around 600rwhp. That's way more than you can handle on the street. That's highway racing because you won't be able to hook up from a dig.
06-20-2009, 08:18 PM
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tires and supension are no issue. running nitto 555r drag radial on the rear and front a rear sways with a 2 inch drop. she will launch hard and corners like a dream. rides kind of rough, but what are you have to give up a little ride quality i guess. my biggest issue after i get the motor finished (before the supercharger) will e the rear end and the tranny. i am running a stock tranny with a B&M shift kit and 2800 stall, but i need to swap the rear end to a 9".
06-20-2009, 08:49 PM
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tires and supension are no issue. running nitto 555r drag radial on the rear and front a rear sways with a 2 inch drop. she will launch hard and corners like a dream. rides kind of rough, but what are you have to give up a little ride quality i guess. my biggest issue after i get the motor finished (before the supercharger) will e the rear end and the tranny. i am running a stock tranny with a B&M shift kit and 2800 stall, but i need to swap the rear end to a 9".
How does that 2 inch drop thing work with the custom exhaust you KNOW you're going to need with that kind of engine? I'm running 3" duals and scraping them with no drop at all.
I'm also wondering about the stock rubber bushings. My car is kinda squirrelly after 9 years on the stockers. I'm wondering if a set of polyurethane bushings would help the handling on our cars as well.
06-20-2009, 09:04 PM
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... oh yeah, almost forgot. In that size range, I'd go with a built 6.2 liter.. LS3/L92 base. Even the stock 821 LS3 heads straight rock for breathing capability and rival most aftermarket offerings even BEFORE cnc porting. I totally agree with Hamrdown on the piston issue with a stroker/forced induction/nitrous application. Be really careful with that as most of those stroker pistons put the pin position really close to the ring lands/piston top and leave very little materiel on top to absorb abuse. They don't seem to offer a lot in the way of lower compession ratios to support higher boost levels either.
06-20-2009, 11:27 PM
#13
thanks conan, i had thought of that, i am thinking of swapping out the cylinder heads and while i am at it i will swap the injectors and the fuel pump. any suggestions on a good high flow fuel pump? also thinking aout going to half inch fuel lines to make sure she doesnt starve herself out. might be over kill right now, but at least i wont have to worry about it. also what kind of heads would you suggest i throw on there. airflow research ad some but i dont know anything about these heads and was wondering if they are any good. AFR 225cc LS1 Mongoose Strip Heads, these are the ones i am looking at. if you have any beter suggestions i am all ears.
Fuel pump I would go with a dual intank set up. Heres a link that explains my band aids with a single pump. https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-i...ual-pumps.html
06-21-2009, 02:16 AM
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tires and supension are no issue. running nitto 555r drag radial on the rear and front a rear sways with a 2 inch drop. she will launch hard and corners like a dream. rides kind of rough, but what are you have to give up a little ride quality i guess. my biggest issue after i get the motor finished (before the supercharger) will e the rear end and the tranny. i am running a stock tranny with a B&M shift kit and 2800 stall, but i need to swap the rear end to a 9".
. With 600rwhp you're going to want something along the lines of a Hoosier, MT, or M&H. You're also going to blow up your 10 bolt no matter what you do at that power level, so start working a 9" into the budget. The stock-internal 4L60-E probably won't be long after, so it might be a good idea to build it up.. Especially if you take it out to swap your convertor (which you should, to match it to your new setup) since the motor will be out anyway.
06-21-2009, 10:30 AM
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Yeah.. those 10 bolt 7.5 or so rear ends are grenades in waiting. Put 600 rwhp to them and you won't wait long. hahaha I trashed mine with just 410 rwhp.
How does that 2 inch drop thing work with the custom exhaust you KNOW you're going to need with that kind of engine? I'm running 3" duals and scraping them with no drop at all.
I'm also wondering about the stock rubber bushings. My car is kinda squirrelly after 9 years on the stockers. I'm wondering if a set of polyurethane bushings would help the handling on our cars as well.
How does that 2 inch drop thing work with the custom exhaust you KNOW you're going to need with that kind of engine? I'm running 3" duals and scraping them with no drop at all.
I'm also wondering about the stock rubber bushings. My car is kinda squirrelly after 9 years on the stockers. I'm wondering if a set of polyurethane bushings would help the handling on our cars as well.
yeah i am working in a 9" with 3.73's. as far as the exhast goes, i am not running cats or muffs, and i still scrape a little bit. i have a 3 inch custom x pipe that scrapes when i go over speed bumps or coming out of dips. the best way to avoid this is hit them at an angle. poly bushings are alot beter than the rubber ones, but a good set of sway bars and shocks are going to make the biggest diffrence when it comes to handling.
06-21-2009, 10:33 AM
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Nittos will NOT hold up to 600rwhp, not even close. You might as well be running run-flats at that point in case you get a flat . With 600rwhp you're going to want something along the lines of a Hoosier, MT, or M&H. You're also going to blow up your 10 bolt no matter what you do at that power level, so start working a 9" into the budget. The stock-internal 4L60-E probably won't be long after, so it might be a good idea to build it up.. Especially if you take it out to swap your convertor (which you should, to match it to your new setup) since the motor will be out anyway.
. With 600rwhp you're going to want something along the lines of a Hoosier, MT, or M&H. You're also going to blow up your 10 bolt no matter what you do at that power level, so start working a 9" into the budget. The stock-internal 4L60-E probably won't be long after, so it might be a good idea to build it up.. Especially if you take it out to swap your convertor (which you should, to match it to your new setup) since the motor will be out anyway.since i am not running 600 right now the nitto's are fine, when i do the rear end swap then i will change out the tires. and yeah i am ging to beef up the tranny, also might swap drive shafts to get one that has a bit more meat around the u-joints.
06-21-2009, 10:40 AM
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also just so you guys know, if you are wanting to know more about specs on my car to give you a better idea of wha i am working with, i cant help you. my car is 14,000 miles away from me right now. i am currently serving in afghanistan ad am trying to get ideas for what can do with my ride when i get back to the states. i am kind of looking forward to it, since i will probably start ordering stuff from here and have my wife put it in the garage for when i get home. it will be like christmas, walking in with all of those parts and knowing that they are just waiting to be put on. the down side is my wife is going to want me to spend family time ad the only thing i will be thinking about is putting my parts on and get to a dyno.
06-21-2009, 12:57 PM
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