Head Swap tomorrow....any actual ft-lb torque specs...?
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Head Swap tomorrow....any actual ft-lb torque specs...?
I am going to be using ARP head bolts, are there some actual ft-lb specs to torque these to? I know with the stock, you do some many ft-lbs, then turn so many more degrees? I would rather just know so actual specs to get to after sequencing and everything....???
Last edited by JxxxOxxxE; 11-15-2003 at 08:11 PM.
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i dont know if ARP bolts have there own specific tq numbers but you can find the stock tq numbers on the ls1 info section here:
http://www.metalreviewcentre.com/TAframe.htm
http://www.metalreviewcentre.com/TAframe.htm
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Yeah, I have basically seen those specs before, I was just wondering if there was someway to get some final specs, and do away with the 90* more and 50* more stuff...
You know like the crank bolt is like 37 ft-lbs then another 140* but the final spec on it is 240ft-lbs...
You know like the crank bolt is like 37 ft-lbs then another 140* but the final spec on it is 240ft-lbs...
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Joe,
I have seen the numbers posted here or on the other site once before. If you can't search and find them by tomorrow you might give Thunder a call. I am sure they would know what they are supposed to be. Come to think of it Jason and Robert are running ARP's on their 30th. Just give them a call.
Jason
I have seen the numbers posted here or on the other site once before. If you can't search and find them by tomorrow you might give Thunder a call. I am sure they would know what they are supposed to be. Come to think of it Jason and Robert are running ARP's on their 30th. Just give them a call.
Jason
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ARP bolts DO NOT get torqued like the stock head bolts. The sequence is...
First Pass: torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.
Second Pass: 50ft lbs.
Third Pass: 70ft lbs
Finally install the smaller bolts and torque them to 22ft lbs. Don't forget to use the moly lube that comes with the bolts. Hope this helps.
-Sly
First Pass: torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.
Second Pass: 50ft lbs.
Third Pass: 70ft lbs
Finally install the smaller bolts and torque them to 22ft lbs. Don't forget to use the moly lube that comes with the bolts. Hope this helps.
-Sly
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I did my GM bolts the same way SLY suggested...final tork was 75lbs for the big bolts, however....
...no problem here...
...I suspect the final tork reading for the 90 degree and 5o degree torking on GM bolts is very similar to the final ARP tork spec...
...no problem here...
...I suspect the final tork reading for the 90 degree and 5o degree torking on GM bolts is very similar to the final ARP tork spec...
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All the torque specs are here (for stock, and ARP hardware):
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
The 240lbft on the crank bolt is *ONLY* for the old crank bolt to seat the crank, the new crank bolt is torque to yeild.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=2
The 240lbft on the crank bolt is *ONLY* for the old crank bolt to seat the crank, the new crank bolt is torque to yeild.
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Thanks guys....I hope all goes well today...Is there anything else to watchout for...? I have read the JMX' walkthrough about 5 times....I think I am ready...
Jason, what have you been upto? I haven't seen ya in awhile....
Jason, what have you been upto? I haven't seen ya in awhile....
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I'll double reiterate that too. Be absolutely sure that all the head bolt holes are free of any coolant. Use a shop vac and cup a length of some fish tank tubing with your hand over the nozzle to suck any liquid out of the bolt holes on the block. Failure to do so will result in a major FUBAR.
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i use paper towels; push them into the holes until they come out dry...PITA....
...clean the piston tops with a razor and do not get any sludge between the bores and pistons...
...clean the piston tops with a razor and do not get any sludge between the bores and pistons...