madman front travel limiters.
08-02-2009, 12:11 AM
#2
I would start by limiting the front end an inch from full travel. That makes a huge difference. Without having any details of the car or issues you are having, that's just a starting point really.
If you are going on the bumper then I'd start with 3" of travel max, to be on the safe side. Always tune to the safe side.
You can also give Madman a call and he can get you real close with more info.
G/L
If you are going on the bumper then I'd start with 3" of travel max, to be on the safe side. Always tune to the safe side.
You can also give Madman a call and he can get you real close with more info.
G/L
08-02-2009, 08:07 AM
#3
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problem is it is pulling the tire up and out of the beam and I cant get on the tree...and it never does the same thing twice, so wherever I leave at on the bulb it will do something different. It leaves good and pushes on out abouit 40' before it sets down but it is not working for brackets racing.
08-02-2009, 05:18 PM
#4
How consistent are your 60fts? That plays a huge role in reaction time consistency, but if you are trying to get consistently closer to the tree then the limiters will help and safe wear and tear on your front shocks. If you have adjustable front shocks, tightening them up will help get you closeras well. The next option would be a smaller front tire.
The limiters will make the biggest difference though.
The limiters will make the biggest difference though.
08-02-2009, 11:08 PM
#6
I think he's trying to get closer to the tree as in better green lights. Detuning would hurt the reaction time since the car would be slowing down at the hit.
Another option is to load the converter up as much as you can while still controlling the car when staging. The less rpm gap between your staging rpm and converter coupling point, the quicker the car will hit the tree.
FWIW- We use a low rpm shift light and set our staging rpm to come on when we prestage. This allows us to stage at the same rpm each time. Leaving at the same rpm and the same spot in the beams will really help your 60ft and reaction time consistency.
G/L
Another option is to load the converter up as much as you can while still controlling the car when staging. The less rpm gap between your staging rpm and converter coupling point, the quicker the car will hit the tree.
FWIW- We use a low rpm shift light and set our staging rpm to come on when we prestage. This allows us to stage at the same rpm each time. Leaving at the same rpm and the same spot in the beams will really help your 60ft and reaction time consistency.
G/L
08-03-2009, 12:04 PM
#7
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I think he's trying to get closer to the tree as in better green lights. Detuning would hurt the reaction time since the car would be slowing down at the hit.
Another option is to load the converter up as much as you can while still controlling the car when staging. The less rpm gap between your staging rpm and converter coupling point, the quicker the car will hit the tree.
FWIW- We use a low rpm shift light and set our staging rpm to come on when we prestage. This allows us to stage at the same rpm each time. Leaving at the same rpm and the same spot in the beams will really help your 60ft and reaction time consistency.
G/L
Another option is to load the converter up as much as you can while still controlling the car when staging. The less rpm gap between your staging rpm and converter coupling point, the quicker the car will hit the tree.
FWIW- We use a low rpm shift light and set our staging rpm to come on when we prestage. This allows us to stage at the same rpm each time. Leaving at the same rpm and the same spot in the beams will really help your 60ft and reaction time consistency.
G/L
If I am just a little off on my RPM I will flash the converter and it wheels up. But I am thinking if I tie the front down it not going to throw the wt to the back tires and hold it there b/c I am low on hp.
I will try a few things
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08-03-2009, 02:02 PM
#8
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Do you run a 2-step? if so make a swing at it.
Adjustable timing control? if so retard a little out down low.
Leave your nitrous timing in it for bracket racing.
Adjustable timing control? if so retard a little out down low.
Leave your nitrous timing in it for bracket racing.
08-04-2009, 12:52 PM
#9
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I thought Madman told me to only allow three inches of travel but you should just call him and he will tell you. His coaching helped me cut a 1.35 on dr's after just making one adjustment to the limiter and one to the shocks.
