Gary Z

I am a nitrous novice starting with a 75 hp dry shot. I pulled this plug after four test runs spraying from 3500 to 6500 in third gear only. One run was a bit lean at 13:1. The last run averaged about 12.7:1 Timing was 19.5 degrees (pulling 4 degrees). Motor definitely feels stronger but I'm puzzled by the condition of the ground electrode.

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

One, I would not use a projected tip plug, but a 75 shot is probably ok. Next not sure if that is the timing mark or heat mark on the plug, Need a better view of the electrode straight on. Third, it looks lean and if thats the timing mark it could use more. Timing was 19.5 degrees (pulling 4 degrees). ?? So you only run 23.5 degrees of timing NA ?? Hmmm, little confusing..

Mike@HSW

iTrader: (6)

quick question, when exactly did you pull the plug?

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

If you pulled them directly after a run, you need to take a close up picture of the strap, and then cut the threaded portion off without messing with the porcelin

jmill96Z

iTrader: (3)

Also, what kind of fuel are you running?

Gary Z

The plug was removed after my last test run followed by about two miles of normal driving. I know this is not optimal for "reading" plugs. I plan to make my first dragstrip nitrous pass today and I thought I'd see how a plug looked after my limited test runs. My fuel was more or less equal parts 91 and 96 octane unleaded. Thanks for the replies.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

The timming mar klooks good but the fuel on the barrel is no good from the driving they have to be pulled after you kill the car durring the pull. also its running a little rich at idle or whatever your "normal" driving rpm is.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

What plug is it? I don't think that you're at the point that you need more octane and random mixing will just make tuning more difficult. I would just run a colder plug and spray it more.

Mike@HSW

iTrader: (6)

do a pass, turn the motor off as you cross the line. make sure you leave it on accessory so you dont lock the wheel. On the return road jump out and pull one plug. This will give you a better idea of what you need to adjust.

Chris@NitroDaves

If you have the option to you need to do a pass and imediately kill the car and pull over asap then take a plug out to read it. With any kind of normal driving wether it's only to the pits or 1 mile or 2 the plug has already been washed.

-Chris

Gary Z

Hey guys, thanks for the advice and comments. I was afraid someone was going to tell me my plug (TR6) is coated with aluminum . I'll be heading to Infineon soon. I'm expecting fun. I don't have a roll bar yet so I need to avoid going below 11.50 but I'm looking forward to trapping above 120 for the first time.

Robert56

iTrader: (2)

Pull #7 plug if you can. That seems to be the most problematic hole. Get a light and a magnifier if you want see, sometimes can't see with the eye, aluminum/detonation on the porcelain, at least when not cutting.
Robert

PONTIAC SLP

iTrader: (3)

agreed

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

WE TODD DID

iTrader: (2)

That plug is useless. As said, you need to install a fresh set with NO run time, and make a full pass. Don't drive around on the new plugs before you make a pass, or those plugs will also be useless. Kill the engine right after the run, and pull the plugs. That is the only correct way.