A/C experts, freon/ oil question
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highland, MI
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A/C experts, freon/ oil question
when freon excapes through a leak in the a/c system, does the oil leave with it? I've been told the oil stays in the compressor but I'll also heard conflicting arguments. Can anybody clear this up?
I had to replace a condenser and now I'm wondering if I have to add oil.
I had to replace a condenser and now I'm wondering if I have to add oil.
#4
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highland, MI
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well here's how it went down. The 134 leaked out...........I refilled it plus I added a 4oz can of oil................it leaked out again so I changed out the condenser, didn't add any oil. I should probably be fine.
Trending Topics
#10
Banned
iTrader: (2)
Put in one can of 134 that also has oil in it, then put the 3 oz can of oil in, then the second can of 134 with oil in it.
You should be just fine that way. I've done it like this 3 times in the last year and its fine each time.
.
#11
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highland, MI
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I should probably mention this is for my grand prix. When I recharged the system I put 36 oz of r134a in it. The system requires 39 oz. It is blowing super cold air on the passenger side but the drivers side is about 5-10 degrees warmer. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the climate control or if I'm undercharged. I checked for leaks and there are none, also the manifold gauges indicated that pressures are good on the high/ low sides and static pressure is about 80 psi on a 75 degree day.
#12
Banned
iTrader: (2)
I should probably mention this is for my grand prix. When I recharged the system I put 36 oz of r134a in it. The system requires 39 oz. It is blowing super cold air on the passenger side but the drivers side is about 5-10 degrees warmer. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the climate control or if I'm undercharged. I checked for leaks and there are none, also the manifold gauges indicated that pressures are good on the high/ low sides and static pressure is about 80 psi on a 75 degree day.
.
#13
TECH Addict
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I should probably mention this is for my grand prix. When I recharged the system I put 36 oz of r134a in it. The system requires 39 oz. It is blowing super cold air on the passenger side but the drivers side is about 5-10 degrees warmer. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the climate control or if I'm undercharged. I checked for leaks and there are none, also the manifold gauges indicated that pressures are good on the high/ low sides and static pressure is about 80 psi on a 75 degree day.
Static pressure only tells you that it was about 75 degrees ambient temp. See the pressure/temperature charts for R-134a. Here is a good one: http://highperformancehvac.com/HVAC-...ure-chart.html
Refrigerant temperature will always indicate it's pressure, and vice versa. This assumes that there are no other gases or air present in the system. If you see something other than what a chart like this shows, per Boyle's law of partial pressure, you can then assume that you have air/non-condensible gases in the system. This would be sufficient reason to evacuate the system, as any other gases present can raise the high side pressures enough to cause the compressor to trip off on high pressure.
To diagnose any A/C or refrigeration system, never use what you see in a static condition as a guide.
#14
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highland, MI
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The fact that air is warmer on one side than the other only tells you that something is up with the ductwork in the car. Use the colder temp for your reference.
Static pressure only tells you that it was about 75 degrees ambient temp. See the pressure/temperature charts for R-134a. Here is a good one: http://highperformancehvac.com/HVAC-...ure-chart.html
Refrigerant temperature will always indicate it's pressure, and vice versa. This assumes that there are no other gases or air present in the system. If you see something other than what a chart like this shows, per Boyle's law of partial pressure, you can then assume that you have air/non-condensible gases in the system. This would be sufficient reason to evacuate the system, as any other gases present can raise the high side pressures enough to cause the compressor to trip off on high pressure.
To diagnose any A/C or refrigeration system, never use what you see in a static condition as a guide.
Static pressure only tells you that it was about 75 degrees ambient temp. See the pressure/temperature charts for R-134a. Here is a good one: http://highperformancehvac.com/HVAC-...ure-chart.html
Refrigerant temperature will always indicate it's pressure, and vice versa. This assumes that there are no other gases or air present in the system. If you see something other than what a chart like this shows, per Boyle's law of partial pressure, you can then assume that you have air/non-condensible gases in the system. This would be sufficient reason to evacuate the system, as any other gases present can raise the high side pressures enough to cause the compressor to trip off on high pressure.
To diagnose any A/C or refrigeration system, never use what you see in a static condition as a guide.
well, I found my a/c compressor was leaking.
Fleetmgr: FYI, the difference in temperature does not necessarily mean a duct issue. I could and does, in my case, mean the system is undercharged.
#16
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
To answer your question yes the oil leaks out with the freon, BUT not much, that is why when you find the leak you will notice it is oil and is collecting dirt, that is the purpose of dye oil, because it will show where the leak is. The 4 ounces you put in was actually probably too much, your total system oil charge is probably only 6-8 ounces, you need to only add about probably 2 ounces for a condenser replacement. I wouldnt worry too much but over charging oil will affect how well the freon can exchange heat ( cool the air )
If you are at a full charge on freon now and have sufficient cooling dont worry about the oil charge, besides the only way to fix it is to flush the evap core and condenser, replace the drier and empty the compressor then start over with your oil charge.