Is High press high flow oil pump causing too much oil at top of heads for Autocross??
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Is High press high flow oil pump causing too much oil at top of heads for Autocross??
I HAD a 383 with the slp ported oil pump and had another ported pump on my 5.7 h/c motor before and both seemed to want to spit oil out the breather system when I was doing high speed autocross. Not sure if it was the sustained 5000+ RPM for extended periods of time or if it was due to the higher press pumps supplying extra oil to the top end and accumulating in the valve covers???
Reason I ask is that I am changing the oil pump in my track ***** and am debating on wheather or not to go with a stock pump with 45k on it from a 6.0L or a ported SLP one that I have laying around. Like a dumbass, I didn't replace the o-ring on the tube when I changed the timing chane and had it all appart..... then I had oil pressure isues. O-ring was flat on the ID and OD when I took it appart and looked at it last night. Must be the low oil press cause, not to mention the 108k mile pump
So, since this is a high mile motor, is it worn enough where the extra psi is worth it or necessary or not?
Anybody know if the aftermarket pumps are responsible for oiling issues when doing auto cross or road racing??? I doubt I would have these issues with street/strip usage.
Also, I don't run a pcv and vent both valve covers to an impact breathe that drains into a catch can. As a side note..... This motor that is a stock motor with bolt ons has not been spitting out any oil???? What I don't know is wheather is it a result of the lower oil pressure or having 100 less HP at the wheels and maybe less crank case pressure?????
BTW, this car put 359 rwhp/357 rwtq which is not too bad for a bolt on high mile car.
thanks!
Reason I ask is that I am changing the oil pump in my track ***** and am debating on wheather or not to go with a stock pump with 45k on it from a 6.0L or a ported SLP one that I have laying around. Like a dumbass, I didn't replace the o-ring on the tube when I changed the timing chane and had it all appart..... then I had oil pressure isues. O-ring was flat on the ID and OD when I took it appart and looked at it last night. Must be the low oil press cause, not to mention the 108k mile pump
So, since this is a high mile motor, is it worn enough where the extra psi is worth it or necessary or not?
Anybody know if the aftermarket pumps are responsible for oiling issues when doing auto cross or road racing??? I doubt I would have these issues with street/strip usage.
Also, I don't run a pcv and vent both valve covers to an impact breathe that drains into a catch can. As a side note..... This motor that is a stock motor with bolt ons has not been spitting out any oil???? What I don't know is wheather is it a result of the lower oil pressure or having 100 less HP at the wheels and maybe less crank case pressure?????
BTW, this car put 359 rwhp/357 rwtq which is not too bad for a bolt on high mile car.
thanks!
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I run a Melling M295 which is a standard replacement pump. If I get about a half quart low on oil, when I go WOT the pressure jumps to 70 psi then dips to 40 psi then back to 70 psi. Im thinking the initial jump in rpm sucks the pan almost completely dry which is causing the oil pressure to dip for a second. My point is even the standard replacement pumps can move some serious amounts of oil.
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I run a 3 qt Canton Accusump to take care of oil starvation issues on high G corners. Found out the hard way that I needed to run one.....
Mine should never dip below 40 psi unless my accusump runs out of oil..... if it does, I have a 30 psi warning light that will come on and blast me in the eyes.
Interesting that you see that happening. Anyone else ever get that to happen????
Mine should never dip below 40 psi unless my accusump runs out of oil..... if it does, I have a 30 psi warning light that will come on and blast me in the eyes.
Interesting that you see that happening. Anyone else ever get that to happen????
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IM runnging a Melling M296 which is hi voland hi psi. engine has seen long runs at hi rpms. Every thing is fine but the rocker will mist up the oil and with the blow by spit it a little out. I dont care much some might.
How many Qts does your engine hold ?
i run 1 Qt heavy and the oil stays off the crank with my Stock GTO oil pan.
How many Qts does your engine hold ?
i run 1 Qt heavy and the oil stays off the crank with my Stock GTO oil pan.
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IM runnging a Melling M296 which is hi vol and hi psi. engine has seen long runs at hi rpms. Every thing is fine but the rocker will mist up the oil and with the blow by spit it a little out. I dont care much some might.
How many Qts does your engine hold ?
I run 1 Qt heavy and the oil stays off the crank with my Stock GTO oil pan.
How many Qts does your engine hold ?
I run 1 Qt heavy and the oil stays off the crank with my Stock GTO oil pan.
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With the canton pan, accusump, and remote filter, it took 9 qts.
My old motor would squirt out about a quart after 50 miles on the road course. that is 50 miles of 5-7k rpms the whole time. both the 383 and the 5.7 h/c set up I had did the same.
My old motor would squirt out about a quart after 50 miles on the road course. that is 50 miles of 5-7k rpms the whole time. both the 383 and the 5.7 h/c set up I had did the same.
IM runnging a Melling M296 which is hi vol and hi psi. engine has seen long runs at hi rpms. Every thing is fine but the rocker will mist up the oil and with the blow by spit it a little out. I dont care much some might.
How many Qts does your engine hold ?
I run 1 Qt heavy and the oil stays off the crank with my Stock GTO oil pan.
How many Qts does your engine hold ?
I run 1 Qt heavy and the oil stays off the crank with my Stock GTO oil pan.
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#9
FormerVendor
I'd always use the blue spring as it still has over 60 most of the time. The red spring will sometimes make over 80 at WOT above 4000 rpm and I have heard over 100 psi even which will push more oil out everywhere.