LS1SS4ever

I want to buy 700r4 street racing + DD can handle 500hp. Could u help me to find good one with good price??

Daryn

iTrader: (19)

why not a performabuuilt lvl 2 or a level 5 flt?

FLT

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the plug daryn c. I think when making that comparison you need to step up the level on the PB unit. Take a look at the build sheets and you will see what I'm talking about.

I think the op is thinking about a 700r4 because he is doing a conversion in a fox body. I would suggest a 4l60e before considering a 700r4. If you are installing a ls1, what are you planning on using to control the engine?

If you are going to use a factory gm computer then a trans to match that is what I would consider. You could always go with a manual valve body kit for a 4l60e and not have to worry about the computer. The only thing that you would need to do is wire up a manual lock up switch.

Personally I like the idea of having a computer controlled transmission in a vehicle over the cable and governor system the 700 will use. Much easier to dial in shift points and what not. Vince B

LS1SS4ever

I use 700r4 becouse its part cheaper than 4l60e and no need for elec. I want to know what is manual valve body? and lock up?

LS1SS4ever

See my drum crack, I hear sound while reverse & doesn't work

FLT

iTrader: (1)

A manual valve body would be a set up where you will need to move the shifter in order for the trans to shift. An example would be in the low shifter position the trans would be in first gear. In the second position would be second gear. D3 would be third gear and OD would be fourth gear. This would be an example of a forwrd manual valve body.

The lock up would be when the torque converter clutch would apply. With this system you would need a toggle switch in order to do this. Basically supplying power or ground to the lock up solenoid.

The reason why you hear noise is because the drum is not holding due to the crack. I'm sure if you were to remove the shaft you would see that the splines are stripped out. I would suggest getting a good sleeved drum the next time around.

Feel free to PM Andy @ FLT or send an email to finishlinetrans.com for a price on a unit if you are interested. Vince B

performabuilt

iTrader: (25)

While the 700R4 is a little cheaper personally if i was gonna go with the full manual set up I would use the 60e. The reason for this is that unlike the 700r4 where you end up at max line at all times with the FMVB conversion for the 60e you can use the vacume modulator or in the case of cars that still have the electronics even the PCS to control line along with lockup simply by making some minor changes in tuning. So you dont end up slamming through the gears at all throttle openings.

PedaltoMetal

I'm going to highjack this one alittle bit. I'm dropping a L59 with DBW in my Blazer. I already have a built 700r4 in it and want to keep it. The only way to do that is to go FMRVB (I want reverse patten with compression braking for off road). Is there a trick to soften the part throttle shifts without the cable? It will see street and trail use. I don't mind manually shifting it, I just don't want to harsh shifts puttin around town. </highjack>