I still can't understand why auto' w/ stalls would be faster than a manual besides...
09-18-2009, 05:32 PM
#1
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I still can't understand why auto' w/ stalls would be faster than a manual besides... I want an th350 but I am having trouble understanding truly why automatics, are faster than a manual besides at shifting. I can't see how a high stall helps either. Reasons below:
1. First you lose alot of horsepower with the high stalls.
2. A high stall is to help keep you in the strong point of the power band, correct? Well when I shift at 6,800rpms in my manual its not going to go below its power band.
3. I hear torque converters with high stalls and something to do with the STR make tons of torque. I don't recall them making any more torque to the wheels on a dyno.
4. I have only raced at the track twice I and my m6 pulled off a 1.59 60ft with only 377rwhp, and I SUUUUUCK with a manual. I have seen an awful lot of auto's not making this 60ft time with the same amount of power to the wheels. I'm sure some have but also at the same time I've only been to the track twice in my whooooole life and pulled that 60ft time, so obviously I have alot of room for improvement.
Before I get rid of my m6 and go to a th350 I really want to see how a stalled auto works and how they make more torque somehow but not on the dyno and that I know this will definantly improve my 60ft and ET times when I make the switch
1. First you lose alot of horsepower with the high stalls.
2. A high stall is to help keep you in the strong point of the power band, correct? Well when I shift at 6,800rpms in my manual its not going to go below its power band.
3. I hear torque converters with high stalls and something to do with the STR make tons of torque. I don't recall them making any more torque to the wheels on a dyno.
4. I have only raced at the track twice I and my m6 pulled off a 1.59 60ft with only 377rwhp, and I SUUUUUCK with a manual. I have seen an awful lot of auto's not making this 60ft time with the same amount of power to the wheels. I'm sure some have but also at the same time I've only been to the track twice in my whooooole life and pulled that 60ft time, so obviously I have alot of room for improvement.
Before I get rid of my m6 and go to a th350 I really want to see how a stalled auto works and how they make more torque somehow but not on the dyno and that I know this will definantly improve my 60ft and ET times when I make the switch
09-18-2009, 05:45 PM
#2
If you have a cam that makes power between 4800-6300RPMs you want to keep it there as much as you can.. You dont want it to flash to 3000rpms and then have to wait for it to get up there.. With a converter it flashes to the desired stall speed and then lets say for instance a 4000 converter.. watch this vid..
Pay attention to where it flashes right when I kick it and right after it shifts..
Not embedding correctly, check next post for VID..
Its not ALL about the converter.. A4s shift virtually perfect every single time therefore drop to the same RPM every single time.. In an m6 you can shift late or early by 200RPMs which makes a big difference..
The STR does impact how efficient a converter is.. Whether it be on the top end or how hard it hits out of the hole. You can't actually dyno a car that has a higher STR and it will make more TQ than a car with lower TQ.. The way I have always is it is multiplying it.. But there is more to it than just that.. Someone I'm sure will chime in.
Regardless of what you think, you can drive.. Dyno numbers dont mean a thing.. I have 320rwhp and run 7.4s@91+mph w/ 1.52s..
If you set your entire car up properly (cam matching converter converter matching gears converter matching weight etc etc etc) then the stalled auto will 60 ft and ET better than your M6.
They flash to the same RPM every time and you usually dont have as much traction issues which also usually gives for a better 60 ft(doesnt look like you have traction issues though).. They are more consistent.
Hope that helped a little.. Not a guru by any means on converters.. There are stickies that breaks them down very good.
Pay attention to where it flashes right when I kick it and right after it shifts..
Not embedding correctly, check next post for VID..
Its not ALL about the converter.. A4s shift virtually perfect every single time therefore drop to the same RPM every single time.. In an m6 you can shift late or early by 200RPMs which makes a big difference..
The STR does impact how efficient a converter is.. Whether it be on the top end or how hard it hits out of the hole. You can't actually dyno a car that has a higher STR and it will make more TQ than a car with lower TQ.. The way I have always is it is multiplying it.. But there is more to it than just that.. Someone I'm sure will chime in.
Regardless of what you think, you can drive.. Dyno numbers dont mean a thing.. I have 320rwhp and run 7.4s@91+mph w/ 1.52s..
If you set your entire car up properly (cam matching converter converter matching gears converter matching weight etc etc etc) then the stalled auto will 60 ft and ET better than your M6.
They flash to the same RPM every time and you usually dont have as much traction issues which also usually gives for a better 60 ft(doesnt look like you have traction issues though).. They are more consistent.
Hope that helped a little.. Not a guru by any means on converters.. There are stickies that breaks them down very good.
09-18-2009, 06:13 PM
#5
When you are driving around town and what not (like you first see in the vid) it picks up below the stated stall speed (4000).. I can drive around in town and never see above 2500rpms and pick up faster than any other car sitting at a red light.. when you kick it (no matter if you are sitting still or doing 60 mph) the lowest RPM it is going to see is the stall speed and this is what it "flashes" to (jumps up when you go WOT), which in this case is 4500 or so.. after the initial kick (whether from a dead stop or a roll) as you can see my car never saw below 5500rpms (i had an ms4 cam and this kept it DEAD on its power band)..
they also rob power (just like gears and a 9 inch or 18" rims.. that is another reason two cars that dyno the same one being a4 one being m6, the a4 will win almost every time.. and also the reason from a dig much lower dyno a4s with much less mods beat m6s with more mods and that dyno higher..
converter also take care of "dead spots"
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09-18-2009, 08:06 PM
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dont get me wrong i love my stalled auto,however if i had a t56 no way in hell id swap for the a4.....or a3 in your case....i say learn to powershift the **** out of it....JMO...
09-18-2009, 08:36 PM
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a 1.59 is just about as good as it gets with a m6, while I have seen some autos go much lower. I am going th-400 at the moment- I wanted to go faster and more consistant. I also never drive on the highway.
09-19-2009, 12:52 AM
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No way I would switch. No disrespect to the auto guys, but all of my buddies that have autos and have around the same or more power than my car..........I have beaten or ran better times. I have cut in the low 1.4x 60fts more than my fare share of times and that is at full weight. Learn to bang the gears right and you can brag when ya beat the auto guy's. All of my buddies where harassing me about getting a auto and I'm glad I didn't now. I went through a transmission before I finaly got it right, but a fine shifted manual is alot funner to drive IMO.
09-20-2009, 01:42 PM
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