Put my Tick MC in today, impressions/ questions
10-03-2009, 11:07 PM
#1
Put my Tick MC in today, impressions/ questions I installed my tick today hoping it would cure my high rpm shifting issues. I had to do it by myself, which was thrilling.
I got everything connected and bolted together and then I started bleeding it with my mity vac. I kept getting more and more bubbles from the reservoir, but the pedal felt like it was moving fluid. When I had my gm MC, I hardly got any bubbles with the mity vac when I bled it after the drill mod. So, I said F- it and started doing the adjustment procedure. After I got it adjusted I took it for a spin and the first I noticed was much shorter the throw was. It feels more like a car instead of a pick up now.
I let it warm up and then I opened it up a little. I was able to get through all of the gears at full throttle, but it got progressively harder to get into gear as I went through them. I was not even able to get through 2 gears before.
I think I need to bleed it better. Has anyone ever had the mity vac pull more and more bubbles?
P.S. I'm not sure how Tick expects you to tighten the top jam nut (one next to the pedal). I only tightened the bottom one. Is this ok?
I got everything connected and bolted together and then I started bleeding it with my mity vac. I kept getting more and more bubbles from the reservoir, but the pedal felt like it was moving fluid. When I had my gm MC, I hardly got any bubbles with the mity vac when I bled it after the drill mod. So, I said F- it and started doing the adjustment procedure. After I got it adjusted I took it for a spin and the first I noticed was much shorter the throw was. It feels more like a car instead of a pick up now.
I let it warm up and then I opened it up a little. I was able to get through all of the gears at full throttle, but it got progressively harder to get into gear as I went through them. I was not even able to get through 2 gears before.
I think I need to bleed it better. Has anyone ever had the mity vac pull more and more bubbles?
P.S. I'm not sure how Tick expects you to tighten the top jam nut (one next to the pedal). I only tightened the bottom one. Is this ok?
10-03-2009, 11:31 PM
#2
recommend tightening the top nut
also noticed my tick pulls bubbles at 15 in/hg I only try to pull 10 in/hg when bleeding. It's sealed up alright, just don't try to pull the same amount of vacuum as a stocker. Also I noticed after banging thru gears it does get harder to push a bit. This is because the fluid heats up a significant amount and expands I think.
also noticed my tick pulls bubbles at 15 in/hg I only try to pull 10 in/hg when bleeding. It's sealed up alright, just don't try to pull the same amount of vacuum as a stocker. Also I noticed after banging thru gears it does get harder to push a bit. This is because the fluid heats up a significant amount and expands I think.
10-03-2009, 11:40 PM
#3
Thanks for the reply. What top nut are you talking about? The one on the plastic reservoir attached the MC?
I saw one of your posts after I wrote this and it makes sense now. I was pulling about 12 in/hg and had bubbles, then I bumped it up higher and staring pulling a lot of bubbles.
Did a traditional bleed get the job done better? I think I might try that tomorrow.
I saw one of your posts after I wrote this and it makes sense now. I was pulling about 12 in/hg and had bubbles, then I bumped it up higher and staring pulling a lot of bubbles.
Did a traditional bleed get the job done better? I think I might try that tomorrow.
10-04-2009, 03:01 AM
#4
I've noticed no difference in a normal bleed and a mityvac bleed. Car drives great for me, put on a good 3k miles on the master now and its stayed fairly consistent. I think the master can't hold vacuum due to its seal design, but it can handle pressure fine.
10-05-2009, 12:04 AM
#5
My high rpm shifts got progressively worse and then I did a traditional bleed. My hard shift symptoms got a lot better and I was able to get it through all the gears easily at full throttle. I am still experiencing a couple of difficulties:
1) with the motor revved, the clutch doesn't grab until the VERY top of the pedal.
2) failed the 6k rpm test (need to adjust out more?)
3) I can't drive it hard through the gears multiple times with out the shifter not wanting to go into any gear (like the clutch won't disengage). I have to pump the clutch a couple times before I can get it back into gear.
4) there is a tiny bit of play at the top of the pedal. Other tick owners have this?
Can anyone help me with these symptoms? I just want to be able to drive the car like it was meant to be driven!!! Thanks for all the help.
1) with the motor revved, the clutch doesn't grab until the VERY top of the pedal.
2) failed the 6k rpm test (need to adjust out more?)
3) I can't drive it hard through the gears multiple times with out the shifter not wanting to go into any gear (like the clutch won't disengage). I have to pump the clutch a couple times before I can get it back into gear.
4) there is a tiny bit of play at the top of the pedal. Other tick owners have this?
Can anyone help me with these symptoms? I just want to be able to drive the car like it was meant to be driven!!! Thanks for all the help.
10-05-2009, 05:23 AM
#6
sounds like you have to adjust it out more
if you fail the 6k test, then 1 2 and 3 are all related of the fact that you are still dragging save for the little play at the top. There should be a little play there, both my previous stockers had them, not too much of a concern there.
You're supposed to adjust it out until you can a) row through the gears with the car on AND b) can rev it out to 6k rpm without it dragging. Rowing through the gears can be possible with it still dragging somewhat. This is because of how your syncros work, but it puts a lot of abuse on them. At idle, they can still get it close enough to allow shifts, but at 6k rpm it'll be too much for them and feel like you are blocked.
if you fail the 6k test, then 1 2 and 3 are all related of the fact that you are still dragging save for the little play at the top. There should be a little play there, both my previous stockers had them, not too much of a concern there.
You're supposed to adjust it out until you can a) row through the gears with the car on AND b) can rev it out to 6k rpm without it dragging. Rowing through the gears can be possible with it still dragging somewhat. This is because of how your syncros work, but it puts a lot of abuse on them. At idle, they can still get it close enough to allow shifts, but at 6k rpm it'll be too much for them and feel like you are blocked.
10-05-2009, 02:53 PM
#7
I think I may have more than a MC issue. It was driving ok last night after the tradition bleed, but this morning it was barely drivable. I have to pump the clutch a couple times in between each shift. After I pumped it, it would shift into any gear like butter. I even tried adjusting the MC out a little more and same symptoms were still there.
I guess the only thing left is the slave. How can you tell if it is bad?
I guess the only thing left is the slave. How can you tell if it is bad?
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10-05-2009, 10:41 PM
#9
well if its loosing pressure, it could be a leak. to determine if it is the slave, disconnect the hydraulic line from the slave. Your pedal should be hard like a rock with no movement. If you can compress it, then you have air in the system. If not, the slave is at fault.
Also of note, if air gets in, fluid usually goes out too, so check for any signs of fluid leaks.
Also of note, if air gets in, fluid usually goes out too, so check for any signs of fluid leaks.
10-06-2009, 12:17 AM
#10
Pedal is hard with slave disconnected. I bled it again tonight just to see if it would help and it shifted great after the bleed. I don't see any signs of a fluid leak, but there has to be air getting into the system some where. I'm not sure the last time the slave was replaced, so I think that is the next step... gm slave cylinder and a speed bleeder...
10-07-2009, 11:58 AM
#11
I think I need to bleed it better. Has anyone ever had the mity vac pull more and more bubbles?
P.S. I'm not sure how Tick expects you to tighten the top jam nut (one next to the pedal). I only tightened the bottom one. Is this ok?
P.S. I'm not sure how Tick expects you to tighten the top jam nut (one next to the pedal). I only tightened the bottom one. Is this ok?
Any tips on getting to that jam nut besides needle nose pliers!
10-07-2009, 01:13 PM
#12
I'm assuming that you have a tick MC. I think it is common for tick mc's to pull bubbles over 10 in/hg.
To bleed mine, I tried the mity vac at 8 in/hg and then did a traditional bleed. worked great for a while, but I think I have a leak in my slave (replacing tomorrow).
To get to the top jam nut on the adjustment rod you need a 1/2" wrench and a 9/16" wrench. I had to pull my rod off my pedal to get to it. I just wedged my body in there and eventually got it tight. It doesn't that I'm 6'7", 315 lbs. either. It should be much easier for a smaller person.
10-10-2009, 01:23 AM
#13
I started replacing my slave today and got the new one in, I just have to button everything up tomorrow. The inside of the tranny, around the slave was covered in sludge. I am assuming it was brake dust, mixed with brake fluid. I can't believe all this sludge was from bleeding the system. I wonder if my slave was leaking and the all the brake dust was absorbing the fluid, so I never saw a visible leak from the outside. Anyways, I'll update tomorrow to see if my problems are fixed.
10-10-2009, 03:41 PM
#16
I just finished my slave install and all I can say is WOW! My car drives much better. No high rpm shifting issues at all. It took me about 6 hours from start to finish. I bought a $50 harbor freight trans jack and it made it a lot easier. I didn't even have to move my x-pipe set up. I just unbolted the tranny from the bell housing and rolled it back and slapped on the new slave. Thanks to everyone who helped me...
10-10-2009, 06:43 PM
#17
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Its good to hear the new slave worked out for you.
To anybody reading, I HIGHLY recommend the Tick speed bleeder if you are swapping the slave or clutch. Trust me, it will be the best $50 you've ever spent on your T56
To anybody reading, I HIGHLY recommend the Tick speed bleeder if you are swapping the slave or clutch. Trust me, it will be the best $50 you've ever spent on your T56
10-13-2009, 02:47 PM
#19
I just finished my slave install and all I can say is WOW! My car drives much better. No high rpm shifting issues at all. It took me about 6 hours from start to finish. I bought a $50 harbor freight trans jack and it made it a lot easier. I didn't even have to move my x-pipe set up. I just unbolted the tranny from the bell housing and rolled it back and slapped on the new slave. Thanks to everyone who helped me...
10-13-2009, 03:06 PM
#20
I had the same problem. It's probably getting stuck in gear because the clutch is not disengaging. I did the following things in this order:
1) Bled the system with mity vac and did traditional bleed (helped a little), make sure the system is completely bled.
2) replaced the nasty dot 3 in the system with some dot 4 (no help)
3) did the drill mod (no help)
4) replaced stock master cylinder with an adjustable unit from tick performance (shifted great after initial install, but got worse over a 24 hour period, which indicated a leak)
5) replaced slave cylinder with stock gm unit (fixed shifting issues)
a lot of people have different opinions on using aftermarket parts or sticking with stock parts. I enjoy my tick master, but that is just my opinion. Good luck fixing your shifting issues. There is A LOT of info this site. Just use the search function and read the stickies. That should give you all the info you need.
1) Bled the system with mity vac and did traditional bleed (helped a little), make sure the system is completely bled.
2) replaced the nasty dot 3 in the system with some dot 4 (no help)
3) did the drill mod (no help)
4) replaced stock master cylinder with an adjustable unit from tick performance (shifted great after initial install, but got worse over a 24 hour period, which indicated a leak)
5) replaced slave cylinder with stock gm unit (fixed shifting issues)
a lot of people have different opinions on using aftermarket parts or sticking with stock parts. I enjoy my tick master, but that is just my opinion. Good luck fixing your shifting issues. There is A LOT of info this site. Just use the search function and read the stickies. That should give you all the info you need.