Need brakes for the autobahn....
10-09-2009, 06:27 AM
#1
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Need brakes for the autobahn.... My 99 camaro warped the stock brakes at 20k miles, swapped to cross drilled and slotted, and still haven't warped them 70K miles later.
My 98 formula I have warped 2 sets of stock blank rotors, swapped to c5 corvette rotors, then warped the stock c5 rotors, so I switched to cross drilled an slotted c5 rotors.
Now I have warped those, what can I get that wont warp after a 140-70mph braking session?
Could my Rim tire size be causing the problem? I have 245-50 R-16 on the camaro, and 275 40 r-18 on the firebird.
My 98 formula I have warped 2 sets of stock blank rotors, swapped to c5 corvette rotors, then warped the stock c5 rotors, so I switched to cross drilled an slotted c5 rotors.
Now I have warped those, what can I get that wont warp after a 140-70mph braking session?
Could my Rim tire size be causing the problem? I have 245-50 R-16 on the camaro, and 275 40 r-18 on the firebird.
10-09-2009, 07:13 AM
#2
The quality of the rotors will be an issue. GM rotors on average are not the best and will warp which basically mandates you to go somewhere else.
There is a sponsor here that sells rotors which I beleive are brembo blanks. I forget his user name though.
Your in a unique situation as far as how hard your being on the car, I wonder if you can make a duct to catch cool air and vent it on the rotor itself.
There is a sponsor here that sells rotors which I beleive are brembo blanks. I forget his user name though.
Your in a unique situation as far as how hard your being on the car, I wonder if you can make a duct to catch cool air and vent it on the rotor itself.
10-09-2009, 07:37 AM
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www.stranoparts.com
either the brembo blanks or the ATE rotors.
i really like the way the ATEs work on my car. VERY pleased with the braking improvement.
either the brembo blanks or the ATE rotors.
i really like the way the ATEs work on my car. VERY pleased with the braking improvement.
10-09-2009, 10:05 AM
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IMO it all depends on your budget. The best thing would be to step-up to one of the CTS-V setups which will get you a much larger rotor to dissipate the heat and a good caliper on there as well. That is what I would do if I was doing 170mph stops. That would also require 18" wheels though.
10-09-2009, 10:57 AM
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IMO it all depends on your budget. The best thing would be to step-up to one of the CTS-V setups which will get you a much larger rotor to dissipate the heat and a good caliper on there as well. That is what I would do if I was doing 170mph stops. That would also require 18" wheels though.
Only thing is you would need to get 18" wheels, but I can tell you its well worth the upgrade.
10-09-2009, 12:29 PM
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You're not warping them. Take a look at the StopTech website for details on how you're NOT warping them.
As for what will work better. Certainly larger brakes will help, but they're not the first step. Get a good set of brake pads. That's the single largest factor in braking. Can your pads handle the heat? A set of Carbotech XP12s will do everything you ask of them.
That's something that not a lot of people realize about brakes. If you have substandard brake pads, the actually generate MORE heat than ones that are meant for racing. Why? They have to work at higher pressures and for longer times to achieve the same braking. This means more heat. A race pad will stop the wheel much quicker, resulting in less heat. Also, because you are on the brakes for a shorter amount of time, you have MORE time to cool the brakes.
Better calipers and rotors are good suggestions. So are cooling ducts. But, I won the state championship on LS1-style calipers (from Baer) with C5-size rotors.
Oh, and get that cross-drilled crap off your car. If you're cruising a boulevard, it's fine. But, it only decreases swept area and introduces weak points in the rotor. If you want slotted, fine. It'll reduce pad life, because it constantly shaves off pad material as you brake. But, they're OK. I just run blanks.
Some info from a few websites:
From TireRack:
As for what will work better. Certainly larger brakes will help, but they're not the first step. Get a good set of brake pads. That's the single largest factor in braking. Can your pads handle the heat? A set of Carbotech XP12s will do everything you ask of them.
That's something that not a lot of people realize about brakes. If you have substandard brake pads, the actually generate MORE heat than ones that are meant for racing. Why? They have to work at higher pressures and for longer times to achieve the same braking. This means more heat. A race pad will stop the wheel much quicker, resulting in less heat. Also, because you are on the brakes for a shorter amount of time, you have MORE time to cool the brakes.
Better calipers and rotors are good suggestions. So are cooling ducts. But, I won the state championship on LS1-style calipers (from Baer) with C5-size rotors.
Oh, and get that cross-drilled crap off your car. If you're cruising a boulevard, it's fine. But, it only decreases swept area and introduces weak points in the rotor. If you want slotted, fine. It'll reduce pad life, because it constantly shaves off pad material as you brake. But, they're OK. I just run blanks.
Some info from a few websites:
From TireRack:
Slotted, drilled or dimpled rotors offered as OEM replacements should not be considered appropriate for high-speed track use.
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable.
While grooved, drilled and slotted rotors offer an enhanced appearance and add some resistance to the boundary layer of gasses that can build up between the pad and rotor, they are not designed to withstand the extreme temperatures that are produced on the racetrack. If they are used on the track, it is very important that the rotors be carefully inspected and should not be driven on if even minor signs of deterioration are seen. Note, too, that if these products are used on the track they are not warrantable.
10-11-2009, 11:06 PM
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I suggest c5 sized ate's with whatever pads hawks makes that are more race bred than the hps's. Look into lightening up you car too. That'll make easier work for your brakes.
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10-12-2009, 05:48 AM
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Hey Phoenix64, where are you at in Germany? HAve you heard of Fbody Europe? You can find it at FBE.org
Also, 00 Trans Ram has stated exactly what I was going to suggest (only better and further indepth). What pads are you running now? That is probably where your problem lies.
Also, 00 Trans Ram has stated exactly what I was going to suggest (only better and further indepth). What pads are you running now? That is probably where your problem lies.
10-12-2009, 08:12 AM
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If your in the K-town, Wiesbaden, Mannheim area. Or better yet if your with in 160 klicks of Ktown why don't you stop in . We can assess what you have and guide you in what you need. What you are experiencing is nothing new for Germany, and there are several solutions. Like Brian said, stop by www.fbodyeurope.org and say hi if you haven't already.