MeatL0af

Like said, the clutch pedal engages very quickly. With the pedal all the way to the floor at a stop light, the car will slowly slowly move.. If i stand up and push really hard on the clutch, it does not move the car when in gear at a stop. The car's clutch position and engage/disengage range was perfect before I had an incident where the pedal was literally ON the floor and wouldn't come back up. I had the slave, master cylinder, and TO bearing changed just recently, and the pedal is still there and i have the same problems. It is hard to put into gear 5 time out of 10 (any gear: 1-6/reverse). Also I have noticed if I rev it while in gear sometimes it will make a loud growling noise that progressively gets louder with the RPMs. WHOA what could this be guys? My mechanic said there was only about 25-30% life left on the clutch (its factory). 99 Z28 6spd. Stock. Any help appreciated! Thank you

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Well, based on your description it's pretty safe to say that your clutch is not fully disengaging (despite the pedal being fully depressed). This can happen for a number of reasons, many of which you have addressed by replacing the hydraulics. That being said, do you know if the mechanic bled the system after installing the slave and master? Do you know what clutch it currently installed? Do you know if the last master that was on the car was OE, or if it was adjustable? These answers may very well provide a clue to the cause. Let me know more and we can proceed as needed. Thanks,

MeatL0af

Everything on the car was OE. The clutch, master cyl, slave, etc. He did not indicate if he had bled the system or not. I believe he actually said that it "can't be bled" or something of that nature. I did not think that sounded right. Is it possible he just installed it all and didn't bleed it? If so, could I do it myself easily or should I just bring it back to him and tell him to do it? Thanks again PS: Pumping the clutch does not affect it's workability

Y2K_Camaro

iTrader: (2)

Subscribed. My Spec clutch is doing the same thing, just not as bad as yours, lol

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Since it seems that he didn't bleed the system that would be my first point of attack for trouble-shooting. Since all the parts are new, and OE, idealy they should work fine...but I have seen new out of the box OE parts be faulty before. Once thing I notice in your second post is that you don't mention a flywheel? Was your OE unit machined? If so do you know how much material they took off? Had it been turned before? If so then you may have a geometry problem resulting from a flywheel that is too thin.

Y2K, let me know a bit more about your set-up and your situation and I will be happy to assist with tech support and trouble shooting. Thanks,

MeatL0af

I don't believe the flywheel was touched. I just got this car last december and have maybe put 2-4k miles on it. I haven't done any maintenance whatsoever besides oil, so talking about machining a flywheel, I don't have any idea when that is done? Is this done when the clutch is replaced? If so then it has NOT been machined because this is the factory clutch. I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to transmissions. I don't have any idea of the process you take when replacing the slave cylinder and TO bearing. The mechanic didn't mention anything about machining the flywheel. He said the clutch has a about 25% life and I told him about the kinda vibrating and he said its the pressure plate hitting the flywheel or clutch I can't remember? But, as far as my clutch/clutch pedal problem, he told me "clutches are like brake pads, once they start wearing, it has a similar affect as having to push harder on the brake pedal, whereas the clutch pedal will be lower to the floor when it's worn." True?

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

I guess I misunderstood your initial post, as I assumed that you had a new clutch installed as well...that's what I get for assuming! After reading again I see that he mentioned the clutch had approximately 25-30% of life left. I am interested in how he measured this. Since you have a pull-type clutch, which is normal for LT1 equipped F-body's, as the disc wears the pedal will get lower (this is the opposite of what you would see on a push-type clutch like an LS1).

Now that we are on the same page...lets proceed. The clutch was fine before the accident correct? What else was damaged? Do you know if the mechanic measured the disc thickness (i ask because he gave you an estimated life on what remained)? Let me know a bit more or give me a call and we can talk through it further. Thanks,

Y2K_Camaro

iTrader: (2)

PM sent SPEC-01

Taken4granted

usually when shops change your slave and TO bearing, or clutch. the hydraulics are not touch being that its a different job. so my answer is you need to bleed your system get the air out.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

has the PP ever been off? I have seen these symptoms with a loose PP
bleeding needs to be done before anything though

Jhadzia

This seems to be the thread that closely matches my problem. I have a 2009 Ford Focus SE 5 speed. 47,000 miles on it. Took it back to the dealer a year and a half ago because I couldn't shift into gear in the mornings (I live in Houston, Texas so it's not from incliment weather). Turns out that a spring behind the clutch pedal had fell off, broken, whatever. It was covered under warranty so no cost to me. Now, it's doing the same thing, but seems worse. In the mornings I can't get it into gear unless I start it out in gear. Since you can't start the car without the clutch in, I have to assume that the clutch is engaging. When I am able to get it into gear (before the engine warms up), the pedal is all the way to the floor and I had to shove it into gear, then when I release the clutch pedal it's litterally about a quarter of an inch or less (sometimes it rolls forward just on the idle of the vehicle & it being in gear) when I can really feel it pulling.

It only had 4,400 miles on it when I bought it in 2009 so I'm fairly certain that no master or slave cylinders, clutch, or flywheel were ever replaced.

When I took my car back to the dealer, they told me I was out of warranty so if it's not a manufacturer's defect, then I would have to pay for it. Please let me know let me know if it's something I can handle before I end up taking it to the dealer or any repair shop. I am somewheat mechanically inclined (as a woman) & changed everything on my '93 Honda Del Sol (also manual transmission) from under the hood to changing the colored lights behind the instrument panel, to rebuilding the whole interrior after it was stolen & stripped.

mgman

I have a MG ZS 2.0 Diesel, I have trouble with the clutch its biting very low to the floor. I have changed the slave cylinder but this has not improved it. The clutch is not slipping, but I have trouble getting the gears. Is this the clutch plate worn out, or is it hydraulic problem. would changing the master cylinder help.