Need input on goodroad coarse brakes??
11-26-2009, 02:30 AM
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Need input on goodroad coarse brakes?? Ok so I'm going to be racing my car at Laguna Seca in a few months. I know this track has alot of heavy braking sections ad will cook insufficient brakes.. So what is my best option?
I have seen alot going on with the ctsv brakes but I need to retain a 17inch wheel.. I have also heard about porsche brakes for fbodys?
So would I be better off going with a big brake kit with ss lines goood fluid and such or would I be able to do just as good withgood pads rotors and ss lines?
Thanks in advance
I have seen alot going on with the ctsv brakes but I need to retain a 17inch wheel.. I have also heard about porsche brakes for fbodys?
So would I be better off going with a big brake kit with ss lines goood fluid and such or would I be able to do just as good withgood pads rotors and ss lines?
Thanks in advance
11-26-2009, 06:18 AM
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Could you please list your suspension, tyres and other mods?
Whilst I do know you WILL need good brakes, depending on temperatures that you will incur, brakes themselves are only part of the big picture.
With that stated, do stick with the 17-inch rims and keep the rotor around ~12" to ~13" as anything more will add unnecessary MOI to your front wheels and front brakes. Also, a good method of measuring brake temperatures will help as well (e.g. pyrometer and/or temperature sensitive paint/dye).
Whilst I do know you WILL need good brakes, depending on temperatures that you will incur, brakes themselves are only part of the big picture.
With that stated, do stick with the 17-inch rims and keep the rotor around ~12" to ~13" as anything more will add unnecessary MOI to your front wheels and front brakes. Also, a good method of measuring brake temperatures will help as well (e.g. pyrometer and/or temperature sensitive paint/dye).
Last edited by Foxxtron; 11-26-2009 at 08:10 AM.
11-26-2009, 08:22 AM
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its just a track day. dont bother doing a $1000 brake kit. just do the usual fluid flush, new rotors, and good pads, ie: a full race pad. the minimum would be hawk HP+, but their colored line is more suited to a track day or actual race. blues or blacks. also ferrodo, raybestos, porterfield all make full track pads.
11-26-2009, 09:21 AM
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as far as rotors and pads, i like the set up of baer eradispeed rotors, and ebc pads. ebc makes high durability pads specifically for road racing, i'd check them out
11-26-2009, 09:43 AM
#5
Don't go spend tons of cash on brakes ... YET!
A C5 conversion with $50 Autozone blanks will do you very well and not "brake" the bank.
Get a set of Carbotech XP10s for the front and XP8s for the rear.
Flush the fluid with a quality, high temp fluid.
And enjoy yourself!
A C5 conversion with $50 Autozone blanks will do you very well and not "brake" the bank.
Get a set of Carbotech XP10s for the front and XP8s for the rear.
Flush the fluid with a quality, high temp fluid.
And enjoy yourself!
11-26-2009, 05:32 PM
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Ok so suspension mods are
1le front sway bar
bmr non adj tq arm
umi non adj lower control arms
umi non adj panhard bar
umi subframes
stranos and Konis are in the mail..
Tires will be kuhmo v710s 315 front 335 rear.
Car also has heads and cam with moser 12 bolt
1le front sway bar
bmr non adj tq arm
umi non adj lower control arms
umi non adj panhard bar
umi subframes
stranos and Konis are in the mail..
Tires will be kuhmo v710s 315 front 335 rear.
Car also has heads and cam with moser 12 bolt
Last edited by Prerun4fun13; 11-26-2009 at 06:50 PM.
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11-27-2009, 01:41 AM
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I cannot speak for Laguna Seca since I've never got around to using my Camaro for that specific course. Some ones to consider are: Nitto NT01's, Toyo Proxes "R" series, and/or Hoosier road racing radials.
Last edited by Foxxtron; 11-27-2009 at 01:47 AM.
11-27-2009, 07:59 AM
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its a track day. you dont need anything special. it sounds like this is your first time out. there is no need to blow a few thousand on parts and tires just for a track day, let alone your first. youre not racing, there probably wont be any timing equipment, you wont be passing anyone other then on the straights, and thats only on a wave by.
IF, and i say IF you plan on doing track days fairly regularly, ie: 8 or more a year, then you can look into getting a dedicated set of rims/tires for the track. but if youre just going for the first time, or dont plan on going very often, just use your street tires.
other then pads and maintenance, you dont "need" to do anything for a track day. new rotors are fine, you can get cheap autozone ones. bleed or flush the fluid. SS lines again arent needed. i know some people race W2W on GM rubber lines. but you can do them anyway, as theyre good forever. as long as your tires are in good shape, keep an eye on the pressures. any decent course with quality pavement wont chew up your tires like an autox will.
everyone always wants to spend thousands of dollars on their first track day, without ever trying the car stock, or even having a plan on doing this more often. there was a thread someone made a month ago, about his first trip to a track. he was already planning full suspension, brakes, tires, light battery, and a NEW REAR END.....all without ever turning a lap, all for just a first time track day. keep in mind that most tracks will require you to ride with an instructor for most of the day, and maybe in the afternoon let you out on your own. even then, you could be playing follow the leader, rather then open track. if so, a bone stock f-body will be more then enough, but for pads.
think about how often you plan on doing this first. maintenance/safety items are fine, but do you have any idea how expensive 315 and 335 v710s are, if youre only going to do it once? not to mention those tires do not last forever, and youd only get a season out of them anyway. its not like you can buy them once and keep them for the next 5yrs.
IF, and i say IF you plan on doing track days fairly regularly, ie: 8 or more a year, then you can look into getting a dedicated set of rims/tires for the track. but if youre just going for the first time, or dont plan on going very often, just use your street tires.
other then pads and maintenance, you dont "need" to do anything for a track day. new rotors are fine, you can get cheap autozone ones. bleed or flush the fluid. SS lines again arent needed. i know some people race W2W on GM rubber lines. but you can do them anyway, as theyre good forever. as long as your tires are in good shape, keep an eye on the pressures. any decent course with quality pavement wont chew up your tires like an autox will.
everyone always wants to spend thousands of dollars on their first track day, without ever trying the car stock, or even having a plan on doing this more often. there was a thread someone made a month ago, about his first trip to a track. he was already planning full suspension, brakes, tires, light battery, and a NEW REAR END.....all without ever turning a lap, all for just a first time track day. keep in mind that most tracks will require you to ride with an instructor for most of the day, and maybe in the afternoon let you out on your own. even then, you could be playing follow the leader, rather then open track. if so, a bone stock f-body will be more then enough, but for pads.
think about how often you plan on doing this first. maintenance/safety items are fine, but do you have any idea how expensive 315 and 335 v710s are, if youre only going to do it once? not to mention those tires do not last forever, and youd only get a season out of them anyway. its not like you can buy them once and keep them for the next 5yrs.
11-27-2009, 01:02 PM
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Well i do plan on doing this more than once for sure. I live fairly close to 3 really cool tracks Infineon, Thunder Hill, and Laguna Seca. I will also be autoxing the car fairly regularly. I have autoxed both of my last camaros, just havent had a chance with this one as i have been saving to do suspension and such.
As far as brakes and stuff goes i know i dont NEED really nice brakes for the first time out but i would rather put a good set of pads and rotors on so i dont have to worry about them when i get there.
And yes i do know the cost of the kuhmos and they are actually fairly cheap when you buy them used
(alot of people on the autox forum around here sell them after a few uses) i have 2 i just need to find another set. But now ill be looking into a tire more fit for a track rather than autox.
As far as brakes and stuff goes i know i dont NEED really nice brakes for the first time out but i would rather put a good set of pads and rotors on so i dont have to worry about them when i get there.
And yes i do know the cost of the kuhmos and they are actually fairly cheap when you buy them used
(alot of people on the autox forum around here sell them after a few uses) i have 2 i just need to find another set. But now ill be looking into a tire more fit for a track rather than autox.
11-27-2009, 05:32 PM
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i did say you need pads/rotors. just not a brake kit. quite the contrary, you DO need race pads for a track, because you will overheat just about anything else, including HPS.
if you get used 710s, they wont last till next year. trust me, ive had them before. if you do get them used, plan on running them immediately. even stored perfectly, theyll just harden up and not be any better then street tires. if you get used endurance slicks, on the other hand, they are different and i bet cheaper then used 710s. you could probably get 2 seasons out of them, stored properly.
if you get used 710s, they wont last till next year. trust me, ive had them before. if you do get them used, plan on running them immediately. even stored perfectly, theyll just harden up and not be any better then street tires. if you get used endurance slicks, on the other hand, they are different and i bet cheaper then used 710s. you could probably get 2 seasons out of them, stored properly.
11-27-2009, 09:06 PM
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i did say you need pads/rotors. just not a brake kit. quite the contrary, you DO need race pads for a track, because you will overheat just about anything else, including HPS.
if you get used 710s, they wont last till next year. trust me, ive had them before. if you do get them used, plan on running them immediately. even stored perfectly, theyll just harden up and not be any better then street tires. if you get used endurance slicks, on the other hand, they are different and i bet cheaper then used 710s. you could probably get 2 seasons out of them, stored properly.
if you get used 710s, they wont last till next year. trust me, ive had them before. if you do get them used, plan on running them immediately. even stored perfectly, theyll just harden up and not be any better then street tires. if you get used endurance slicks, on the other hand, they are different and i bet cheaper then used 710s. you could probably get 2 seasons out of them, stored properly.
11-27-2009, 10:55 PM
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you wont find any now. look around next year. some race times sell off their used tires at halfway or the end of a season. i got 4 275/17s hoosiers shipped for $340. look around the road race section or frrax for dealers.
11-27-2009, 11:49 PM
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I've dabbled a bit with both track day stuff and autocross and the track days just beat hell out of the stock system with stock fluid (You'll hear it start to whine).
The seals went on my powersteering pump after my 2nd day of instruction at the glen. There was enough pressure that the cap (which was fastened correctly) blew off and powersteering fluid exploded everywhere. The poor people behind me thought my engine gave up on life lol.
Anyway, moral of the story doing something will help, whether its a turn-one pump / better fluid (joe gibbs, redline) / an external cooler or all three.
Also for brakes I had a setup that worked out pretty well for me at Watkins Glen with no fading at all. If you are a novice to this kind of stuff I don't think you need to go overkill since there is a lot of learning involved.
I used:
-(4) Cheap blank rotors
-Ate Super Blue Fluid
-Stainless lines
-Carbotech XP8's on the front and AX6's on the rear.
Both the front and rear pads still have plenty of life left after a solid 2 days worth of giving them a beating. Also Carbotechs are expensive but worth it in my opinion since the dust comes right off the wheels later on. My buddy ruined his wheels on his SRT-4 using Hawk Blues.
11-28-2009, 01:40 PM
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I disagree just a bit on that one. In my opinion its vital to do something with the stupid power steering system with these cars if you're going to do this stuff.
I've dabbled a bit with both track day stuff and autocross and the track days just beat hell out of the stock system with stock fluid (You'll hear it start to whine).
The seals went on my powersteering pump after my 2nd day of instruction at the glen. There was enough pressure that the cap (which was fastened correctly) blew off and powersteering fluid exploded everywhere. The poor people behind me thought my engine gave up on life lol.
Anyway, moral of the story doing something will help, whether its a turn-one pump / better fluid (joe gibbs, redline) / an external cooler or all three.
Also for brakes I had a setup that worked out pretty well for me at Watkins Glen with no fading at all. If you are a novice to this kind of stuff I don't think you need to go overkill since there is a lot of learning involved.
I used:
-(4) Cheap blank rotors
-Ate Super Blue Fluid
-Stainless lines
-Carbotech XP8's on the front and AX6's on the rear.
Both the front and rear pads still have plenty of life left after a solid 2 days worth of giving them a beating. Also Carbotechs are expensive but worth it in my opinion since the dust comes right off the wheels later on. My buddy ruined his wheels on his SRT-4 using Hawk Blues.
I've dabbled a bit with both track day stuff and autocross and the track days just beat hell out of the stock system with stock fluid (You'll hear it start to whine).
The seals went on my powersteering pump after my 2nd day of instruction at the glen. There was enough pressure that the cap (which was fastened correctly) blew off and powersteering fluid exploded everywhere. The poor people behind me thought my engine gave up on life lol.
Anyway, moral of the story doing something will help, whether its a turn-one pump / better fluid (joe gibbs, redline) / an external cooler or all three.
Also for brakes I had a setup that worked out pretty well for me at Watkins Glen with no fading at all. If you are a novice to this kind of stuff I don't think you need to go overkill since there is a lot of learning involved.
I used:
-(4) Cheap blank rotors
-Ate Super Blue Fluid
-Stainless lines
-Carbotech XP8's on the front and AX6's on the rear.
Both the front and rear pads still have plenty of life left after a solid 2 days worth of giving them a beating. Also Carbotechs are expensive but worth it in my opinion since the dust comes right off the wheels later on. My buddy ruined his wheels on his SRT-4 using Hawk Blues.
11-28-2009, 03:37 PM
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again, the PS isnt something 'needed' for a track day. if its currently whining right now, then yeah, go ahead and replace/upgrade. but dont think you cant make a day without it. i had 3 seasons of autox and at least 10-15 track days on my whining stock pump before i got a turn one.
if you want to do something, drain and fill the PS fluid with something like royal purple or redline. it will help, but not cure anything.
if you want to do something, drain and fill the PS fluid with something like royal purple or redline. it will help, but not cure anything.
