LS6

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

no you cant do that with stock sleeve length youll be pulling the oil ring right out the botom of the bore

Cheaper to get a LS2 block and run of the mill 4.00 crank to make 400 cubes

Old SStroker

Even if the stroke fits in the block...

3. With a 4L60 you are talking ~675 fwhp and ~600 fwtq. Getting that power with heads that will fit the 3.905 bore will be a challenge. About the best 2.00 intake heads I know of won't support 675fwhp and 600 fwtq NA, which is what I'm assuming you mean.

4. What's streetable NA? You probably can't make the power and torque anyway.

Have you driven a 500 rwhp, 450 rwtq 4L60 car? Wasn't it enough?

There are better ways to get where you seem to want to go.


Jon

LS6

If the oil rings will be dropped from the sleeve, the rod can be 6.0" length instead of 6.125". The suggestion to go with the LS2 block is good.

I saw some people they done stroker with 4.125" crank in LS1 block with makes it 395ci.

For the experience gents, what is the maximum you can go as a stroker for the LS1, is it 395ci or 402ci or 408ci?

Now a days there are combos that I never thought it would be that potentail (500rwhp and above, 450rwhp and above):

A 346ci with head / Manifold / cam and full bolts on made 511rwhp & 450 rwtq.

A 383ci with head / Manifold / cam and full bolts on made 550rwhp & 480 rwtq.

A 388ci with head / Manifold / cam and full bolts on made 614rwhp & 520 rwtq.

A 402ci with head / Manifold / cam and full bolts on made 570rwhp & 519 rwtq.

A 364ci with bolts on & cam only made 480rwhp and 453rwtq.

LS6

As for the head, I saw the new product from MAST, where they have the LS3 head CNC that are designed to fit on 3.9" bore and that flow over 300cfm, but as you know CFM is not the only dominant factor for good head. But from the forum experience, it is a potential head that is not questionable and I think they support more than 600rwhp with the CNC version.

I'm aiming to make the mentioned power. You could be right that I could not reach it. after all it is a project and I'm keeping high to reach the level due to what is seen in the forum.

Honestly, I never drive 500rwhp but I drove 450rwhp on A4 and it is really fun.

silverbeast

iTrader: (16)

you can do it but it will have to be re-sleeved. My buddies car is a 434 ci LS1 block and he made 580 rwhp through a th350 and 9 inch. I think it has the RED sleeves, but im not sure. It is NOT cheap, but it can be done.

will01

I have been researching this topic for some time, here is one of many articles I have used for research.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...1_stroker.html

I think OldSStroker said it best, there are many ways to go for streetable power. If you are on a budget, stroke the LS1 to 383 and purchase a top quality head, cam, exhaust and intake.

When I built my motor my goals were max power, super streetability as I will drive the car more than 250 miles a week (budget was not an issue). Faced with many options, I choose to leave the bottom end alone and purchase a D1SC, exhaust, clutch and upgraded fuel system. On pump gas at 8 psi I am producing 550 at the wheels. I chose this set-up because it gave me the power I was looking for plus room to grow, which is what I am doing now.

What I learned and missed in the initial build was: 1). I should have purchased a good set of heads as my stock heads are the bottle neck in my current set-up. 2). forge the motor as I am looking to add more boost (check-out the dyno section - guys making huge power with smaller displacement engines). 3). upgrade the brakes as stopping on the street can get a bit hairy at these power levels.

Good luck!

LS6

I do not want to go with re-sleeving as it is very very costly (sleeving only cost: USD $ +3000).

I want to go with direct installation and swapping the rotating assembly with minimal modification to the block. I found at Eagle Co. stroker of 395ci for the LS1 at acceptable range cost.

My intension is to go with stoker. I found from surfing in the net that storker of 440ci is almost the same price of the 383ci. I want to utilize the LS1 block since it is there in the garage for some time.

Thanks...

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

4.00 is way to go for 98% of people, 4.1 stuff can work if done right.

Shorter rod will make the situation you proposed worse. Youd have to longer rod, and stack ringpack even tighter. Then theres the issue of gettnig the piston RIGHT, not just fitting. Many people put strokes bigger than 4.0 in stock cylinder length blocks, and alot if not most of them are terds, consume tons of oil, smoke bad, etc. Piston barrel design and a buch of other stuff can be "wrong" if not done right when doing oddball stuff and if you havent done the stuff before you may not be able to look at it and say its right or wrong.

No offense meant, but if you want to do anything other than the normal, you need to speak with someone well versed with these engines, and most will tell you they can do things when they cant before someone will tell you they cant or havent straight up. Man who can and you need to is Erik Koenig/HKE, hes done 4.25" in stock blocks (I think thats what it is, we ran one of his 4.07x4.100 deals) but it is far from your normal streetable deal. Its not a toss it together and beat it forever thing.

One wrong thing in it and youll spend more money then hiring the best qualified guy for the task. Let brain surgeons do brain surgery and engine builders build the funky engines

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

Not to mention feeding a 410 inch engine with 3.90 bore is a bass ackwards way to do it and it wont make the power a 410 inch 4.0+ bore 4 inch stroke "normal" shortblock would

deadmanTA

iTrader: (7)

Go with the 382- 3.9 bore and 4.00 crank. Tony Mamo perfected his 382 setup and hit over 500 to the wheels. If you just want the extra cubes then sell the spare ls1 and pick up a used 6.0 iron block, 4.0 bore and 4.0 stroke will make the 402. This route has a better selection of heads to feed a 500+ rwhp engine.

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

LS1 block isn't the greatest anyway.. --Compared to the updated LS6 and 2 style bottom ends of the block.

I'd go with the LS2 block and crank as mentioned above..

If you've got a spare block laying around just stick it in an 89 S10 or somethin.. BWAAAAAAAAH!!

blue99fbody

iTrader: (5)

im in the process of a 393ci shooting for 500whp na plus some nitrous. we will see how it goes
3.905 bore
6.125 rods
4.100 crank

LS6

E-Works

iTrader: (4)

does anyone actually have a combo like this together and running? what main caps did u use? pinned?

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

The 388ci engine that you referred to is a destroked LS7 block that made 614/520.

"Who" is claiming that his 383 made 550/480 NA? I would sure like to see that dyno graph!! One very happy dyno no doubt.

P.S. Don't for one moment think that the numbers you posted are the norm. If the numbers are accurate...they represent the exception and not the rule.