Sonic35SS

Hey guys, I was going to change the front brake pads on my 2006 CTS-V, but wasn't sure how to get the old pads out of the caliper? Any suggestions? The calipers are Bembro calipers, with V emblem on them.

Thanks for any help!

SkullV

iTrader: (11)

Tap the 2 pins out from the front, take the retainer spring off the top, use your hands to compress the pistons. Installation is the reverse of removal. MAKE SURE you tap the pins back in all the way or you will lose one.

Mercutio

Easiest pad swap ever.

rjoffe

Just a clarification, Tap the 2 pins out from the OUTSIDE towards the inside of the wheel well.

Big Bu Bu

iTrader: (4)

Does everyone bleed them after a pad change? If so, anyone recommend speed bleeders or pressure bleeders.

jonyb

iTrader: (2)

No point in bleeding them if you don't take the brake lines loose.

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

Old thread revival. But google took me here. Anyone have the torque numbers for all the brakes(front rotors etc...?

tweeter81

Check out www.cadillacfaq.com

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

I did before asking. Good front pad change how to but what about rotor? Torque specs? Any special tools?

tweeter81

http://www.cadillacfaq.com/faq/answe...nge/index.html

The following is copied from the procedure in the link above:

Items needed:
* Brake Pads - for list of pads and pictures Go here
* Hammer
* Punch or small screwdriver
* Some kind of brake tool to push the brake pistons back in. The one in the pic is from Pep Boys or Kragen... nowhere fancy.

UPDATE It is recommended by some that you turn the rotors when you change the brake pads as well. To do this you need to remove the caliper and rotor. The torque specs for the caliper to knucle bolts are: 96 ft lbs.(front) 88 ft lbs (rear)- Rotor mounting screw is 124 LB in (you must convert this to ft lbs if using a standard torque wrench)

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

tweeter posted the caliper torque specs. Other than that you don't need any torque specs - there's no reason to put a torque wrench on the little rotor holder screw unless you don't want to ever be able to remove it again. That little screw is a Torx bit - I want to say it's T40 or T45, but I'm not sure. I have that particular bit in with my socket set since I use it all the time.

And not that anyone asked the question, but I'll disagree with the FAQ on the need to cut rotors when you install new pads. Cutting rotors is a waste IMO - all you're doing is removing perfectly good rotor material, and spending money to do it! The only rotor prep I've done for the past 10 years on any of my cars is hit the rotor surfaces with a 3M Roloc disk on my drill. You just need to scuff the surface to break up the existing layer of pad material so that the new pads will bed into the rotor. Takes me all of about 3 or 4 minutes - scuff each side of the rotor, clean off with brake cleaner and a shop rag, done.

meatyCTS-V

I can honestly say I've never used a torque wrench or torque specs when doing ANY brake work.

So far I haven't had any calipers fall off or my wheels fall off *fingers crossed*

I have, however, had a friend forget to tighten a bolt holding on his caliper. It hung off the hub, and it rubbed through the inside of the wheel, and it split on him while going down the highway.

Just pay attention to what you're doing and you'll be good

-meaty

AAIIIC

iTrader: (19)

I don't torque the bolts holding the calipers, either, as I'm just not comfortable torqueing a steel fastener into an aluminum caliper to 95ft-lb. Although I haven't seen many issues with the Vs, I know there are plenty of posts on the Subaru forum from guys who have stripped out the threads or cracked the threaded boss on the STI Brembos (which are essentially the same caliper we've got). So, I put some oomph on the 12" ratchet and call it good.

Chris0nllyn

iTrader: (1)

Same here.

As far as "turning" the rotors goes, I always do it, mainly because I get it done for free...but its a good idea, especially if they are warped.

rjoffe

There are quite a few of us who track our cars, and change pads regularly from track to street. We rarely turn the rotors, but do clean them with scotch type scrubbers between pads. I would only turn a rotor if it was warped.

CTSVBiggie

iTrader: (1)

with centric rotors being so cheap as well as other blank type... i would replace when warped and not turn them. Any significant reduction in material will only reduce its ability to absorb heat before failing. Less metal is a bad bad thing.

But thats just me... I dont like to mess around when it comes to brakes breaking.