Anyone ever rebuilt thier alternator?
01-30-2010, 09:02 PM
#1
Anyone ever rebuilt thier alternator? Alternator is overcharging on my Z. Already bought a new one but i was wondering if anyone has rebuilt thiers? Any write ups or site's for this?
What type of alternator is it? CS144?
What type of alternator is it? CS144?
Last edited by MUSTANGBRKR02; 01-30-2010 at 09:19 PM.
02-03-2010, 02:00 AM
#9
Staging Lane
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If you really want to do it yourself I'm sure electrical places would sell you the voltage regulator I would think that's all you need just inspect the rest of it bearings, brushes when apart if you need the parts they should have them or be able to get them. If all you need is the voltage regulator I think they are a pretty basic install. However with my experience of alternators, starters ac-delco parts are far better lasting wise rebuild kits and such often use cheap parts and don't last as long.Voltage regulator should be cheap though so then you could have a backup alternator with out a lot of money and do it yourself.
02-03-2010, 06:43 PM
#11
IDK about the LS1 alternators, but the 140 amp LT1 alts are the CS144's. Here's a good video on how to disassemble and replace parts on a CS144 (2 parts):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdFA6WF8lVg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKbX7mezuFM&feature=fvw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdFA6WF8lVg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vKbX7mezuFM&feature=fvw
02-04-2010, 03:11 PM
#13
it is a CS130D, delco-remy type AD-237, per my 2002 service manual description.
http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Altern...html#Section_3
http://oljeep.com/gw/alt/edge_Altern...html#Section_3
02-04-2010, 07:37 PM
#14
Here is a line drawing of the inside of the alt. Does look to difficult to replace the regulator.
http://www.jnelectric.com/images/pri...o%20CS130D.pdf
http://www.jnelectric.com/images/pri...o%20CS130D.pdf
02-05-2010, 12:13 PM
#15
if/when i have a chance maybe i'll write an alternator how-to.
It is not difficult to replace the regulator or rectifier on any alternator, all you need is a screw driver/socket set to undo the hex head bolts. The hardest part is getting the brushes back in the brush holder which are under spring pressure and you use a straightened paper clip or whatever to keep them retracted so you can slip the rear cover back over the armature, then pull the paper clip to let the brushes go against the armature.
The big problem with alternators today (and starters) is the industry doesn't want you rebuilding them because that's lost money to them, they want you to swap the whole thing out for $200+ while all they ever need to do is replace the rectifier (a few diodes) for $10, as a result info on late model stuff is hard to come by and always labelled as not-serviceable. I've bought starter solenoids mail order and talking to those guys i easily got the impression they didn't want to sell them, and i know some local places won't sell them because why sell me a $10-20 part when they can do the work for me (which practically isn't work) and charge $$$ for a "rebuild"/
And what complicates things are the variances on a given model of alternator, the jnelectric link proves that with over 10 different regulators available- it's the voltage regulator which makes the alternator special and for the CS130's in late model chevy's they have varied from 2 to 4 to maybe 5 wire setups, depending on how they want to hook the engien computer up with it and control/monitor charging, and the voltage regulators now go by the term ASVR meaning application specific voltage regulator which is another way of saying we're gonna use a solid-state electronic module (i.e. computer chip) and make it more complicated than it needs to be.
It is not difficult to replace the regulator or rectifier on any alternator, all you need is a screw driver/socket set to undo the hex head bolts. The hardest part is getting the brushes back in the brush holder which are under spring pressure and you use a straightened paper clip or whatever to keep them retracted so you can slip the rear cover back over the armature, then pull the paper clip to let the brushes go against the armature.
The big problem with alternators today (and starters) is the industry doesn't want you rebuilding them because that's lost money to them, they want you to swap the whole thing out for $200+ while all they ever need to do is replace the rectifier (a few diodes) for $10, as a result info on late model stuff is hard to come by and always labelled as not-serviceable. I've bought starter solenoids mail order and talking to those guys i easily got the impression they didn't want to sell them, and i know some local places won't sell them because why sell me a $10-20 part when they can do the work for me (which practically isn't work) and charge $$$ for a "rebuild"/
And what complicates things are the variances on a given model of alternator, the jnelectric link proves that with over 10 different regulators available- it's the voltage regulator which makes the alternator special and for the CS130's in late model chevy's they have varied from 2 to 4 to maybe 5 wire setups, depending on how they want to hook the engien computer up with it and control/monitor charging, and the voltage regulators now go by the term ASVR meaning application specific voltage regulator which is another way of saying we're gonna use a solid-state electronic module (i.e. computer chip) and make it more complicated than it needs to be.
02-05-2010, 06:31 PM
#18
Teching In
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In the past, I rebuilt my alternators from the 60s and 70s. Easy. Tried once to build a late model alternator. The casing broke before the pulley etc. came off to get at the front bearing. So, I had to pay the core charge plus the cost of the alternator, plus the cost of the rebuild kit. Money wasted. I don't rebuild them anymore. I've never done TA alt.
