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Old 02-13-2010, 03:42 PM
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I'm looking to "upgrade" my stock brakes i.e. just rotors and pads. What is the rotor and pad setup to go with? I just want something simple for right now while i'm building my new LS1 and then i'm going with a wilwood setup.
Old 02-13-2010, 05:59 PM
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a set of blanks and a set of Hawk HPS pads will do just fine for the street
Old 02-14-2010, 04:21 AM
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give adam @ brakemotive a shout!! brakemotive is a sponsor on this site. i think you can get 4 slotted rotors for less than $170 bucks and some pads for like $60.
Old 02-14-2010, 07:05 AM
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i appreciate it everybody does anybody know if stoptech makes a 6-piston caliper setup for my bird?
Old 02-14-2010, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by evil_ta
i appreciate it everybody does anybody know if stoptech makes a 6-piston caliper setup for my bird?
No, and believe it or not there's not much better you're going to get from going beyond stock brakes with the exception of a better blanks, good pads, fresh brake fluid, and sometimes stainless steel lines.
Old 02-14-2010, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxxtron
No, and believe it or not there's not much better you're going to get from going beyond stock brakes with the exception of a better blanks, good pads, fresh brake fluid, and sometimes stainless steel lines.
how so?
Old 02-14-2010, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by evil_ta
how so?
Pay a visit to the StopTech website's technical white papers section and you'll see that even though there's a lot of promotion of their products, they definitely go into quite explicit details of how braking works.

Once you read it, you'll notice that there's a whole lot of importance concerning sprung mass control, GVW, weight distribution, tyre compound, and several other physical matters at play.

Have you seen much of the posting of what mitchntx races with? It's actually just a set of racing pads over 40 dollar a piece wagner stock replacement rotors, racing brake fluid, and only a C5 caliper instead of a 4th Gen F-body caliper. In the open tracking that I've done with a similar brake setup with a 400 rwhp/382 rwtq vehicle with a GVW of around 3860 lbs. running a shaved set of Nitto NT-01's, I've done continuous high speed laps for over 45 min., yet my brake temps only reached around 710 degrees F. A properly made set of F-body blanks can withstand almost up to 900 degrees F using the right pads.

I have explained it several times through much debate here at ls1tech and many other forums. In general, if you're thinking that big brakes alone are the big cure for decreasing stopping distances, then you need to look more at the true physics of how they work as opposed to fancy marketing.
Old 02-14-2010, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by TXZ28LS1
give adam @ brakemotive a shout!! brakemotive is a sponsor on this site. i think you can get 4 slotted rotors for less than $170 bucks and some pads for like $60.
+1
i think i payed $190 shipped for 4 slotted/drill rotors and ceramic pads. they work and look great.
Old 02-15-2010, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Foxxtron
Pay a visit to the StopTech website's technical white papers section and you'll see that even though there's a lot of promotion of their products, they definitely go into quite explicit details of how braking works.

Once you read it, you'll notice that there's a whole lot of importance concerning sprung mass control, GVW, weight distribution, tyre compound, and several other physical matters at play.

Have you seen much of the posting of what mitchntx races with? It's actually just a set of racing pads over 40 dollar a piece wagner stock replacement rotors, racing brake fluid, and only a C5 caliper instead of a 4th Gen F-body caliper. In the open tracking that I've done with a similar brake setup with a 400 rwhp/382 rwtq vehicle with a GVW of around 3860 lbs. running a shaved set of Nitto NT-01's, I've done continuous high speed laps for over 45 min., yet my brake temps only reached around 710 degrees F. A properly made set of F-body blanks can withstand almost up to 900 degrees F using the right pads.

I have explained it several times through much debate here at ls1tech and many other forums. In general, if you're thinking that big brakes alone are the big cure for decreasing stopping distances, then you need to look more at the true physics of how they work as opposed to fancy marketing.
yea i understand all that goes into the stopping distance i just wasn't sure if i needed to go with a bigger brake setup this is my first muscle car and before this car i had a built 87 GTI (1134 HP and 986 torque ran 8.13 1/4's) and a 96 civic coupe t67 turbocharged LS/VTEC (685HP 520torque ran 10.2 1/4's)
and both of them i had to get big brake kits bc the tires were so skinny. but thanks for the advice it is really helpful.



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