SUPER_CHEVY

Had my car dynoed last week and it made 433RWHP/489RWTQ on motor and 490RWHP/570RWTQ on spray. Mods are: TR custom cam speced by predator-z (231/240 .643/.608 112+4), TSP-PRC 5.3 stg 2.5 heads, TH400, custom 4000 stall by FTI, TNT F2 (100 shot), 3.73 gears, LS6 intake and Full bolt-ons.

As you can see in the charts I've only gained a 57hp form 100 shot where the dual nozzle TNT with a 100 shot should make 125whp.

In should be noted that the bottle that I used on the dyno used at the strip with a 300 shot and it wasn't with a pressure gage nor a heater and those two runs was on an open cutout, running on 95 octane fuel and TR6 plugs.

It run an AFR of 13.03 NA which is good, but with the shot it was rich (11.31) Is that can be caused when I run out nitrous or from a low bottle pressure?

Could you guys please help me on that?

N/A
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N20
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speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

the a/f on the spray looks good maybe a little rich but you want it that away

i would say you need to get a heater and a pressure gauge

ive seen the kits not hardly work at all when it is cold and they have no pressure

SUPER_CHEVY

I already got my brand new TNT bottle filled which shows a 900 PSI and I get my heater installed on it, and I'm planning to give the dyno a visit next week to see the improvements. BUT I'm just wondering if that only will help or there is another thing wrong (AFR, timing, the kit it self, pressure, tune.. etc)

Thanks anyway.

99_Z_155

iTrader: (7)

Im not trying to be funny, but have you checked the lines and/or jets for obstructions? maybe that pressure isnt even making it to the engine? are you running a nozzle or a plate? is the nozzle set up and aimed correctly? have you tested the setup off of the car, like say into a five gallon bucket? this will eliminate the ideas of problems with the kit. then you can go deeper into where the problem is on the engine side. plugs too cold, spark blowing out?

BigDB

Ur gonna lose more thru a auto especially with a higher stall. Bottle pressure will affect the A/F so raise it up and ull gain some of the power back. Im not expert but Id say a 112 LSA is kinda tight for a N2O cam and ur RPM range so ur losing some power there also

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

thats a good start,their could be an infinite number of things wrong but your a/f looks fine to me

on a nitrous car you want it to be in the mid 11 range

i would put my money on it being the bottle pressure right now

i ran without a heater for awhile,even though you have 900psi when you hit it your bottle instantly loses pressure so it wont maintain the full amount without a good heater throughout the whole pass

i always tried to get my pressure around 1000 psi before a pass

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

You are both wrong. 11:1 is too rich by any means.

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

i said mid 11 on the a/f and also stated that it is still a little rich

i dont know about you but i always tried to keep my a/f on the spray around 11.8 to 1

im not saying this is right just what i do to make sure my car is safe and i know quite a few that run in that area

to me it is much better to lose a little power from being rich than it is to go lean and fry something

ryarbrough

iTrader: (18)

Pics of the plugs?

SUPER_CHEVY

Actually, I bought the kit from a guy who store it out of service for a long time and it was dusty and when we were install we test it and the nitrous jet was not working but after some hittings it works

The TNT FII is power ring kit, which is similar to the plate.

I don't not think that there is a problem in the kit it self. The plugs isn't too cold, the TR6 plugs is in the mid range which is recommended by everybody.

SUPER_CHEVY

It is a nitrous friendly cam as recommend by both Predator-z and Partick-G.

SUPER_CHEVY

Unfortunately,, NO

streetassasin

iTrader: (30)

switch your plugs to a ngk br7ef gapped at .030 and put a pressure gauge on it

vicouSS00

iTrader: (47)

i feel your pain brotha

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Being rich will lift ring lands also. You are still leaving power on the table. You would want your A/F in the mid 12's. But for the true test forget the wideband and Read Your Plugs. Ask the big boys (ATVracer, BAKED, Shiznity, JL-ws6) and they will tell you to read your plugs.

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

i would agree with the plugs but for a newbie i dont know if they woulkd even know what to look for

camscam02

iTrader: (21)

Who cares if they dont know what to look for, tell them the right/safe plug to run nomatter what they know or not. No reason to run the tr6 when you can run the non projected 7 or 8 be more safe and make the same power on motor.

The car needs br7ef's gapped around .030 and get the bottle pressure up to 900-950 with a full bottle. then put it back on the dyno and got from there. Case closed

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

we were talking about knowing if you are lean or rich from looking at your plugs not which one to run

thanx for chiming in though

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

That's what those guys I mentioned earlier are for. They have been helping viscious00 on here by reading his plugs on here and giving him suggestions on timing and fuel. Our new mod who just responded (camscam02) will lend a helping hand if needed.

speedcrazy2

iTrader: (1)

im done, i never said anything to this guy about plugs,i told him that he needs to get a bottle heater and a pressure gauge which will probably help him get some of that 100 shot to the tires

he is losing some of that from being too rich but im sure he isnt like the ones mentioned earlier who want every tenth they can get,he probably would rather have a safe setup that isnt pushing the threshhold of kaboom

supermod chimed in saying i told him the wrong plug so i corrected him