Radio wont come on, fuse not blown, reading .03 volts on radio
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Radio wont come on, fuse not blown, reading .03 volts on radio
aftermarket cd player, the fuse isnt blown (interior fuse), and the power reads at .03 volts when on.
Polk component system
clarion amp (reading 12+v)
Kenwood head unit.
anyone else have this issue?
edit to add, it wont switch the amp on either.
Polk component system
clarion amp (reading 12+v)
Kenwood head unit.
anyone else have this issue?
edit to add, it wont switch the amp on either.
Last edited by Wnts2Go10O; 03-07-2010 at 03:14 PM.
#7
Also, check the voltage at the fuse.
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When you say switch wire, you mean the blue remote turn on wire, right? If so, it should be 12V. I had a problem on my Fusion CA-IP500 with that. The HU was only putting out 9.5 volts for the remote wire, which wasn't enough to turn the amp on. The amp needed at least 12V to come on. 1.5V wouldn't turn ANY amp on I don't think.
Also, check the voltage at the fuse.
Also, check the voltage at the fuse.
#9
is it the radio thats not coming on, or is the radio on but not the amp... it is 2 different types or problems
if radio isnt on, pull radio and check for 12 volt on the constant and igntion wires
if radio isnt on, pull radio and check for 12 volt on the constant and igntion wires
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so symptoms as listed:
radio wont turn on
amp wont turn on
no power on the switch wire
.03 volt on red power wire to radio
12 volts on power wire to amp
apparent power to radio (red security light)
#11
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Unplug the connector from the back of the head unit. You should have battery voltage (12V+) on the yellow wire at all times. You should have battery voltage (12V+) on the red wire when the ignition switch is on or in the accessory position. If you don't have those voltages then you need to start tracking the wiring to find why not - blown fuse, broken wire, etc.
Also check that the black wire provides a solid ground. If all these things check out than it's a safe bet that your HU is dead. There is usually a fuse for the HU - it is either on the outside back of the unit or it is inside the casing. Your HU owner's manual should tell you where it is.
Also check that the black wire provides a solid ground. If all these things check out than it's a safe bet that your HU is dead. There is usually a fuse for the HU - it is either on the outside back of the unit or it is inside the casing. Your HU owner's manual should tell you where it is.
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ground is good, ive checked it 3-4 times. 12V hot is good. 12v switched is giving me some strange readings. im going to re do the previous owners connections. all fuses are gtg. hopefully the HU isnt dead... ******* are expensive.
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i think its the amp itself.. i jumped the power to the switch on the amp and the stereo works.
so, if its not that... im stumped
so, if its not that... im stumped
Last edited by Wnts2Go10O; 03-10-2010 at 03:07 PM.
#14
If you jump the remote wire to the main power wire for the amp and the amp turns on, that tells you its not the amp but something wrong with the wiring. No offense, but you need to be a little more clear with how you word it, cause its kinda confusing when you say something so vague as stereo.
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If you jump the remote wire to the main power wire for the amp and the amp turns on, that tells you its not the amp but something wrong with the wiring. No offense, but you need to be a little more clear with how you word it, cause its kinda confusing when you say something so vague as stereo.
the head unit power seems to be run through the amp so when it turned on, the HU did, and the stereo worked. so that says:
Not the Head Unit
Not a fuse
Not the power
Not the ground
Not the amp as u say
#16
If sound comes out of the amp, its fine. The remote has NOTHING to do with the powering the headunit. The headunit basically sends the power through the remote wire TO the amp to turn it on. Thats why it worked why you jumped it from a 12V+ source (the amp power itself).
But hey, if your so convinced the amp is bad, I'll give you $20 for the "broken" amp...
But hey, if your so convinced the amp is bad, I'll give you $20 for the "broken" amp...
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If sound comes out of the amp, its fine. The remote has NOTHING to do with the powering the headunit. The headunit basically sends the power through the remote wire TO the amp to turn it on. Thats why it worked why you jumped it from a 12V+ source (the amp power itself).
But hey, if your so convinced the amp is bad, I'll give you $20 for the "broken" amp...
But hey, if your so convinced the amp is bad, I'll give you $20 for the "broken" amp...