ChrisBorsheim

iTrader: (3)

Well, I broke the head off a header bolt.

I've got about 1/4th inch of play. Vice grips are just rounding off the bolt, and my easy out broke off inside the dang bolt and is sticking out of the numb.

Advice?

I'm half way thinking about using a dye grinded and grinding a slot into it and using a screw driver to pull it out.

frojoe

iTrader: (10)

If there is play like you say, that must mean that the bolt can wiggle around... but you can't turn it? Or do you mean there's a 1/4" of bolt shank sticking out that you could play with?

If there's enough bolt material sticking out of the head, I'd do: LOTS of Liquid Wrench, heat, and a dremeled slot & B.F.Screwdriver gripped by slip-joint pliers...

ChrisBorsheim

iTrader: (3)

No wiggle. I don't want to heat it up with those aluminum heads.

Yeah I'm thinking slotting it with the dye grinder is the best choice right now. The hard decision is going forward with it because the only other option is flattening whats there a bit and trying another easy-out. I can only do one or the other before I have to use a screw extractor that drills down into the hole because i've run out of screw on the outside.

Bowtie70SS

iTrader: (10)

Get a nut that fits over the bolt and weld it to the bolt let it cool a little and it should back right out. You will never drill a easy out unless you heat it to remove the temper.

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

+1

Might be too late for you now, but this is the best quide I have found for removing broken bolts.

http://www.madelectrical.com/worksho...en-bolts.shtml

bczee

iTrader: (12)

If you have tried almost everything.. what I have done a few times it to just drill the bolt out. start with a smaller drill bit.. then go to the next size until you just about at the threads. .then use a pick or small screw driver to start picking out the left over threads.. just make sure you can start the drilling as centered as you can, and like that artical said, if you got a left hand drill bit might help a lot.

Many time as you have completely drilled through and getting close to the head (or whatever) the pressure usually between the bolt and the head is lessen and a extractor will get it done at that point and you might not have to pick out the remaining bolt threads...

ChrisBorsheim

iTrader: (3)

Yeah I mean, I used the easy-out/left hand bit and the bit literally broke off inside the bolt ha. It's just super seized, I'm going to try soaking it for a few days with some helper and try to do the slot/flathead...otherwise I'll be using an extractor and drilling the bolt out.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Weld a nut onto the remaining stud

ChrisBorsheim

iTrader: (3)

I don't have a welder, nor do I have 220v.

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Can you get a picture of what you're working with?

digitalsolo

iTrader: (24)

Find a friend with a 110 volt welder...

I think you're going to have a hell of a time with any of the other options. If you end up weakening what is still sticking out, you are probably going to have an even worse time...

Jimbo1367

Sir Wood,
Good find.

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

Chris, I copied this from another site, hopefully it will help.

I worked as a Tool & Die for 30+ years, I have removed more broken bolts, taps, EZ-outs and broken of dowel pins then I care to remember! But I always had the EDM machine to burn what ever was in the hole, out, and then retap it. I drill out broken taps & ez-outs out with a carbide end mill, usually a 1/8" to start with.

I also use the wax method to remove rusted bolts, but I go to the grocery store and get paraffin wax which is cheap and use that. I usually just heat the area and touch it to it and it sucks it in. And also some times I need to weld a nut or bolt to it to turn it out.

I have put in a few solid Heli-coils and I don't like them! But, I have put in 1000's a year of the wire Heli-coils. I have never used the tool you buy to insert them, I grind the end of a hard cap bolt and use that. Most people try to put it to the bottom of the hole which is wrong, you only go 1 thread past the top, to keep from pulling it out . The bottom of the tap is tapered and if you put the heli-coil to the bottom, it also will be tapered and stick the bolt in the hole. If need to go to bottom, get a bottoming tap to finish the bottom, And Only put 1 heli-coil to a hole!!!

lizeec

iTrader: (57)

The left hand drill bits usually work very well, as does the weld on a bolt or nut to the protruding part, I have also had luck with a spray penetrant called PB Blaster it is similar to WD-40 but I have had better results with the PB BLaster stuff, try spraying it a couple times a day and if your vise grips are like mine the teeth are rounded off, I bought a new pair of vise grips with the curved jaw (Buy genuine vise grips dont buy that japanese crap) and I applied a little heat with just one of those little propane torches plumbers use, and the new teeth gripped really well and the broken rusted bolt came out very easy. Sometimes you get luck and sometimes you dont. Good Luck

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (11)

if you don't want to screw around with it for 5 hours take it to your machine shop, they charge like 20 bucks to get it out and won't wreck anything

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

you might just be the person i needed to talk to.

i bought a shortblock which "just had a broken head bolt" and turned out to have a broken tap in the broken bolt.

so, i can use a carbide tipped bit?

the other issue is the broken piece is at least 5" into the block.
a lot longer than all the bits i have.

what do you suggest?



sorry for the hijack/

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

Not trying to be a smart-***, but if you don't have the proper tools (the correct expensive bits, etc), do as 89ROC-Z suggested, take it to a machine shop. In the long run, you will save money and have a proper repair without further damage. The machine shop has the tools, equipment and most of all, the knowledge regarding which tools and methods to use. JMO

Mike

Mike52

iTrader: (1)

If you will try this, you will throw your PB Blaster and all the other 'store bought' sprays in the trash.

Some of you might appreciate this. Machinist’s Workshop magazine tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts.
They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.

*Penetrating oil …... Average load*
None ………………...…. 516 pounds
WD-40 ……………..….. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ……….….… 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench …….… 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ………….... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix…….53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50% – 50% automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.

I hope this helps,
Mike

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

If its as seized as you say it is, grinding a flat and trying to use a screw driver will fail. Trust me, i've gone down this road. If you cant get it with vice grips, no way is a flat head screwdriver going to twist it out. PB blaster, soak it a couple days, and use vice grips. Just heat it with a propane torch for 30 seconds. You wont warp your heads.

deelong4002

iTrader: (8)

And if you go the easy out method, buy the expensive ones. The cheapies twist right off, and then you are stuck with a another problem, drilling out a hardened easy out.