bias-ply front runner or radial skinny? opinions needed.
#1
bias-ply front runner or radial skinny? opinions needed.
I currently have some radial fronts on my prostars. they weigh aprox 22lbs a tire. If i switch to a 26x4.5x15" hoosier front runner tire they weigh 11lbs each. my question is, will dropping 22lbs off my front wheel/tire setup gain me much at the track as in faster ET's? I know rotating weight affects a car in a differnt way then weight inside the car. I'm not sure if its worth $300 to switch over to a non-radial tire in the front. if it gained me a solid 2 tenths or something crazy like that i'd do it. i'm thinking 22lbs may not even be noticed.
#4
I have heard anyone who street drives there car that a electric water pump is a bad idea. Know two guys who had them then went back to a mechanical water pump.
If your front runners are in good shape don't waist your money. If you are extreamly lucky you might gain.1 but there is a slim chance to gain that much.
If your front runners are in good shape don't waist your money. If you are extreamly lucky you might gain.1 but there is a slim chance to gain that much.
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The other thing to consider is mixing tire types.
It's generally not recommended to mix radial and bias play tires, but if you have to do it, putting the radials on the rear and the bias plys on the front is the most stable configuration.
I would personally just match them up all around and not even worry about switching tires just to save weight. The gains will be minimal at best.
It's generally not recommended to mix radial and bias play tires, but if you have to do it, putting the radials on the rear and the bias plys on the front is the most stable configuration.
I would personally just match them up all around and not even worry about switching tires just to save weight. The gains will be minimal at best.
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The two types of tires just handle differently and sometimes when you mix them you can end up with a car that's unstable.
Bias rear/radial front is supposedly the biggest culprit, making the back end of the car dance around. I know at least one person with first hand experience with this and they said it was very unstable, but then again I also know a person who tried it (on an FBody even) and said it felt fine.
In my opinion, when it comes to racing at high speeds, every little bit of safety and peace of mind is worth doing, and since both types of tires are easily available front and back there's really no reason not to match them up.
Bias rear/radial front is supposedly the biggest culprit, making the back end of the car dance around. I know at least one person with first hand experience with this and they said it was very unstable, but then again I also know a person who tried it (on an FBody even) and said it felt fine.
In my opinion, when it comes to racing at high speeds, every little bit of safety and peace of mind is worth doing, and since both types of tires are easily available front and back there's really no reason not to match them up.
#11
Bias tires sway side to side slightly. They do this because of there style of construction. The way the cords are layed in the tire they try to push the tire side to side.
A terrible idea on the same axle for sure! Bias all the way around just makes you match and offers a better chance to squirm around at the top end.
I have radial fronts and bias out back on my truck. No issues at the top end trapping at 100 mph. We will see what happens as I get faster. When I buy real front runners they will be bias just because they only make it bias for the size I need.
A terrible idea on the same axle for sure! Bias all the way around just makes you match and offers a better chance to squirm around at the top end.
I have radial fronts and bias out back on my truck. No issues at the top end trapping at 100 mph. We will see what happens as I get faster. When I buy real front runners they will be bias just because they only make it bias for the size I need.
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I
Bias tires sway side to side slightly. They do this because of there style of construction. The way the cords are layed in the tire they try to push the tire side to side.
A terrible idea on the same axle for sure! Bias all the way around just makes you match and offers a better chance to squirm around at the top end.
A terrible idea on the same axle for sure! Bias all the way around just makes you match and offers a better chance to squirm around at the top end.
My car at 3200 lbs goes down the track straight as an arrow, just like several other cars I have got to drive most much faster than my own. No wobbling, no pushing side to side, one hand on the wheel while the car drives itself. If I had a problem like that, one of two things could fix that problem - tire pressure or replacing a bad tire! If radials were so incredibly stable in comparison I assure you would see them on more race cars all over the country, but the funny thing is nearly all race cars run bias ply tires up front. That is because there is gains to be had over radials without the over exaggerated claims you've made. I can understand wanting to run radials on your half ton truck but his car is much different, and I don't think it's fair to discourage someone from trying/switching to something you don't personally have experience with.
Same weather conditions, d/a, track conditions my car picked up right at .06-.07 seconds. Worth it to me when it drives the same as it did before. $250 for that gain with my car and a new set of tires was more than worth it IMO.
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I don't recommend bias ply front's for the street because they tend to be very soft and would wear out extremely fast not to mention they're not DOT approved. Just get a set of stockers with the M/T's on them and you'll have a sleeper.
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Most don't have much tread and definitely not enough to drive in the rain. As far as mileage goes, if you said 500 that may be do-able depending on the brand, roads, and the way you drive but 5000 I am going to say that won't really happen IMO.
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Just to clarify, nobody is trying to say that radial is better than bias ply, just that mixing the two tire types can cause stability issues.
If you gotta mix them, put the radials on the back and the bias plys on the front, but like I said before, it's so easy to match them up why would you ever not?
If you have to run DRs, then put a radial front on, if you run slicks, get a bias ply front like the MT sportsmans.
Either way, a big rear skinny front setup won't do to well if you "drive like a maniac". Big and little setups are for straight line racing and not much else.
If you gotta mix them, put the radials on the back and the bias plys on the front, but like I said before, it's so easy to match them up why would you ever not?
If you have to run DRs, then put a radial front on, if you run slicks, get a bias ply front like the MT sportsmans.
Either way, a big rear skinny front setup won't do to well if you "drive like a maniac". Big and little setups are for straight line racing and not much else.
#20
I'm willing to bet you have never driven a fast car car with bias ply front runners.
My car at 3200 lbs goes down the track straight as an arrow, just like several other cars I have got to drive most much faster than my own. No wobbling, no pushing side to side, one hand on the wheel while the car drives itself. If I had a problem like that, one of two things could fix that problem - tire pressure or replacing a bad tire! If radials were so incredibly stable in comparison I assure you would see them on more race cars all over the country, but the funny thing is nearly all race cars run bias ply tires up front. That is because there is gains to be had over radials without the over exaggerated claims you've made. I can understand wanting to run radials on your half ton truck but his car is much different, and I don't think it's fair to discourage someone from trying/switching to something you don't personally have experience with.
Same weather conditions, d/a, track conditions my car picked up right at .06-.07 seconds. Worth it to me when it drives the same as it did before. $250 for that gain with my car and a new set of tires was more than worth it IMO.
My car at 3200 lbs goes down the track straight as an arrow, just like several other cars I have got to drive most much faster than my own. No wobbling, no pushing side to side, one hand on the wheel while the car drives itself. If I had a problem like that, one of two things could fix that problem - tire pressure or replacing a bad tire! If radials were so incredibly stable in comparison I assure you would see them on more race cars all over the country, but the funny thing is nearly all race cars run bias ply tires up front. That is because there is gains to be had over radials without the over exaggerated claims you've made. I can understand wanting to run radials on your half ton truck but his car is much different, and I don't think it's fair to discourage someone from trying/switching to something you don't personally have experience with.
Same weather conditions, d/a, track conditions my car picked up right at .06-.07 seconds. Worth it to me when it drives the same as it did before. $250 for that gain with my car and a new set of tires was more than worth it IMO.
What I did say is an issue with bias is they walk side to side a little bit. hence the "skating" on the top end. That is just what bias tires do. I havn't had any one have personal experiance with the tires walking around at the top end but you hear people talking about it all the time.
I said not to switch to bias fronts because for the money you will gain a hole in your wallet and probably nothing else. Maybe .1 and that doesn't make much sense for $200-$300.
I don't know if you mis-understood me, I explained it wrong, or you jumped off the handle for no reason, but regardless bias fronts are just fine, just no good reason to take off good radials to put on new tires and not gain much if any for your money.