samz28

couple hundred bux in the toilet.

Whats going to stop this.

Yes i had 2.73's. Yes the installer was competent. Yes i have steel Driveshaft, not it NEVER made any vibrations while speeding or at the one time i drag raced it.

I've read alot of threads, just curious what you guys have had work out as a permanent solution?

My bro bent his alum. driveshaft, so i'm not sure about that. I've read about torque arms, but they look hella expensive and fitment (?headers./etc).

Sorry to drag this thread up. I see alot of folks have had this problem, just looking for LONG term solutions.

thanks. back to the regular new ls1 enthusiast forum and slightly poorer.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Did it break as soon as the pull was over and let off the gas?

samz28

They ran 5 pulls, then noticed the puddle of trans fluid afterwards on the ground, inspected the housing and its cracked completely around about 1" from the flange.

My mods are below.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

Here is one solution. Look at the picture below the black Z. http://www.converter.cc/conversion_kits.htm
Another solution is a Tq. arm that mounts to the underbody.

One more question. Did the dyno operator put the car in neutral as immediately when the pull was over. My theory is not poping the car in neutral causes the converter to instantly lock when you let off the gas and with the momentum of the rollers against engine braking, causes the tail shaft to break.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Yank crossmember works great! Love mine. Call it "insurance"

samz28

to me it looks like the spohn ls1 torque arm (with driveshaft loop) For $415 is the best. Bolt on, works with pacesetter ORY?.

Does it make sense to spend $299 at yank and use the stock torque arm, or $415 and get a new torque arm, new mount point, and driveshaft loop?

The guys at spohn seem sharp, i wonder if i can get them discounted lol.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

You need a different driveshaft, I did that too.

SS00Blue

That crossmember looks great. Looks just like the one I fabricated last summer. Definitely the way to keep a tailshaft housing together!

samz28

okay dudes we're not getting anywhere. I need a new driveshaft? WHY?

You think i bent the steel driveshaft?? it drive fine on the track, i never take her over TRAP speeds due to the tickets i got.

I was thinking the SPOHN setup since its 1. bolt-on, 2. built in D/S loop, 3. Relocates the tailshaft mount point, but am asking you guys what you did to cure it permanently. The car is not a nitrous/silly car.

It put down a respectable 365~whp/480(2500)wft/lb (400wft/lbs@4000) for bolt on with cam and 69K miles. little lower on the whp than i figured (unlocked #'s) but i think more than a handful for me.

But i'd rather not trash more tailshaft's. So whats the word? Spend $415 on that spohn doohickey and bolt it on? Balance the driveshaft?

The $299 yank thing, looks like you have to buy a better torque arm to really benefit, which kinda puts it price higher thant he spohn-bolt-on unit.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I had the steel driveshaft and broke the tail too.

I only found folks with the steel driveshafts breaking tailshafts.

In my case I got a custom $325 'moly driveshaft.

samz28

well thats odd. You have a fast car (duh) and no torque arm on it? or do you have a torque arm AND moly driveshaft?

i'm guessing aluminum is probably out of the question (snap) given the m6'ers are twisting em up. Albeit it might be cheaper to find a used one thats not bent (maybe thats why they sell so cheap lol).

i'm leaning towards the YANK device (ease of install) or Spohn (Maybe difficult).

really i dont drive the **** out of my car, how hard can you dog a 2.73 A4 lid/catback with 555R car? The tires most certainly overpowered the drivetrain until these recent mods/tuning went on.. lol. i was lucky to run over some dirt so i could do a burnout b4 at 307/328 to the wheels thru those gears

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

?????

samz28

i ????? as well. This dyno operator has had many fbodies there before, and i can't see how that would be that much different than hauling *** on the road and doing the same?

explain more. I would not even doubt the dyno driver in this case. Just trying to get some tips cause i can't afford to keep replacing tailshaft's if its a known issue esp when im 110 miles away at the track.
lol

UGOT8

I busted mine at 120mph. W0ot

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

It seems tailshafts are always broken on the dyno. There was a debate here a long time ago about this. There were even dyno operators who posted that said they had never broken a tailshaft and these were the operators who always put the car in neutral immediately when the pull was over.

Ever have your low trac light come on for an instant after a 1/4 mile run? Mine does all the time as soon as I lift. My theory is as soon as you lift, the converter locks and with normal engine braking, the rear tires break loose for split second while all the driveline parts try and match their rpms. I think the same thing happens on a dyno if you dont immediately put the car in neutral. You have the inertia of the two heavy rollers loading the drive train and when the converter locks, engine braking tried to slow down the rollers like it would slow down the car on the track. Only, the car is strapped down and the tires can't slip on the rollers. All the instant driveline shock it transmitted to the tailshaft through the T/A anf the tailshaft breaks.

samz28

that makes sense. Oddly the dyno operator has never seen this before. We are going to examine the tailshaft for any casting issues as well. I'm sure the guy reads this forum, and in no way do i doubt his ability, shiz happens sometimes. i just wanna make sure before i plunk down a load of money that i'll fix the problem. The yank thing seems appealing for its simple install over the spohn+loop, but neither are cheap

mikemodano9c

ok i think im probably the "king" of breaking these housings...ive broken 4 of them...yes 4...all with a steel driveshaft...my car was a 2.73 geared car from the factory. i went to the track last weekend and got my 1st 11 sec motor pass and saturday morning i noticed the car was smoking from underneath...sure enough housing no. 4 had been killed...

ive broken so many of these things ive jbwelded 2 of them so i didnt have to pay to ge a new one...

anyways...in my opinion i think it is the driveshaft (as well as many others) that are breaking these things...i never had a problem with this until i put in my cam and started spinning to 6800 rpms...the balance of these stock steel shafts supposedly sucks (i can feel a slight vibration from mine cruising at 70 mph).

im really damn tired of breaking these things so i just bought a chromoly shaft off someone locally made by billingsly...these are electronically balanced.

also on the tq arm debate...i bought a non adjustable edelbrock tq arm and im going to pair it with the yank crossmember (total for the 2 pieces will be around 470) and i think that will make a very nice, sturdy combo. i don't think the tq arm being on the housing is what has broken all of these....i believe it is the shaft...

if i can go ***** to the wall after putting on the new driveshaft i will post up and let everyone know this is the solution...

PSJ has told me over and over its the driveshaft, and i have seen others say the same...everyone breaking them has a stock steel shaft...

and btw...i broke two of them topping out 3rd (140mph)...not on launches...

samz28

okay so give me some meat on this hot driveshaft. I don't want to use my bro's bent aluminum one where how much how hard to install etc.

Makes sense, the posts almost exclusively show people using the steelies and i definitely have a steelie. I like the yank deal, it looks easy to install and i dunno about fitment (driveshaft loop) pacesetters/etc. so im kinda unsure. The SPOHN thing is monstrous.

And if spend $415+labour on the spohn and my driveshaft is the problem i'd probably kick myself in the ****.

So wheres the dealio on these phatty driveshafts?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I broke mine on the dyno too.

mikemodano9c

well this guy billingsly is a sponsor here...check out the link

also...i see your a cam only car...you could probably get away with a stock aluminum no problem unless you do more to your car...even with the stall. that would only set you back around 100 bucks to pick one up used.

i went with a stronger piece because im going to eventually spray my car from the line so i doubt a aluminum stocker would hold up...

some people complain about noise problems with the spohn...and since i have duals i think it would get in the way...

i like the yank because it is adjustable and it shouldnt interfere with my exhaust, etc....

other driveshafts to consider are one like mine, lpe sells a 3.5 inch aluminum, just look around there are some good choices out there...

if i dont break any more of these housings im gonna wish i changed the shaft a long time ago