kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

I have started painting some old car parts lying around in the garage because I start to take automotive painting classes this fall and wanted to practice prepping, painting, and so forth. I had painted small stuff before, but now that I am painting larger things, such as an old junked car, I am finding I get overspray, not through tape or on windows or anything, when I get to the clearcoat, let's say I'm spraying the door. The clear goes on the door fine and then I get to the fender and the mist falls on the wet clear on the door on the last coat and gives it a rough looking texture. Should I paint one panel at a time by blocking off the other panels (actually just clearing one at a time would be necessary? Or am I doing something wrong? Thanks for any help guys. I did sand to bare metal and scuff the metal and use an etching primer (same brand as the paint). Also I tried to spray can a door hinge and got the same overspray problems just for fun to see if I could do any better.

SSPerformance

iTrader: (76)

do you have a fan pulling enought of the **** out of the garage

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

That could be a problem, I am using an old painters booth, well not rly old but the fans don't work well in it. Forgot to mention that

redspeed3tk

airflow is a big issue but you can also get this if your hardener is too fast make sure you are using the correct speed reducer/hardener for the temp and size of the job. i know ppg 4000 and 3000 clear coats use the dch3075 dch3085 and dch3095 hardener and you go by the temp of the air to pick the speed. higher temp hardener the longer the clear coat stays open allowing the overspray to melt back in. you will always get speckling if you cant get the air clear.

ZForce1

what kind of gun you using? If you're using a conventional, an hvlp will reduce alot of it. Good airflow it very important too, of course, as mentioned above.

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

I'll get the name of the guns in the morning, locked up in the building. Just bought em as a starter set at a local body shop for like 150 dollars for like 3 guns so nothing fancy. Trusted the guys at the paint store to give me all the right stuff, but I can let you all know tomorrow what they gave me when I go unlock my booth. The airflow I believe is my problem. I heard a good paint booth will suck all the remaining particles in the air out. It just makes me weary of my skills, I know I haven't even started school yet for it, and I'm sure they will be able to help me figure out the problems as well. Just I know a few people around here who paint in their car garage and do great paint jobs and I have a booth and possibly having air flow trouble

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

The guns just say HVLP on the side. Not sure of the brand. Bought em last year and just hung em up and threw the box away. They're gravity feed guns.

ZForce1

If you are already using an hvlp it's probably not that then. It was just a thought. Once you get some good ventelation, you should be fine.

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

I also heard I should paint from farthest from the exhaust fans to the closest to keep painting over the fallen overspray?

birdhoss

Welcome to the painting business. Sometimes when doing a side of a car or an overall paint job you have to walk the whole side. Not the quarter,then door, then fender, as with the hvlp you will get dry on the quarter when doing the doo and dry on the door when doing the fender. So one way to spray is start at the bottom or top depending on the job and do the whole side from bottom to top. Hope that helps, also like stated earlier slower drying clears and reducers,

vetteboy99

U are not sanding it enough

kcsov6

iTrader: (1)

I've not sanded it at all, it was comin out too rough it would have just powdered off. Got it fixed tho, put in some more fans today