Installing LPP longtubes and true dual x-pipe. Pictures, questions, and soon videos
#1
Installing LPP longtubes and true dual x-pipe. Pictures, questions, and soon videos
After much deliberation on my exhaust system, I have finally decided to install LPP (LaMonte Performance Parts) long tubes and true duals. I know some people have had fitment issues with those headers, but for the price and the fact that the whole system will be stainless, it's worth the risk. Plus I plan on installing Spohn solid motor mounts at the same time so fitment shouldn't be a problem, hopefully. First off here is some info about this system from Carl at LPP. I e-mailed him some questions, here are his answers
So, here's the list:
1. long tube headers
2. LPP true duals
3. o2 extenders
4. AIR removal (headers are race style so no block off plates needed, but I guess there is a vacuum line that needs plugged up?)
5. Spohn solid motor mounts
6. GM exhaust gaskets (what sponsors sell these, and should I buy them or reuse old ones?)
7. Stage 8 locking header bolts (same question as last)
8. Dyno tune plus AIR and catalytic converter codes removed from computer
Am I missing anything? My car has 30,000 miles so I wasn't planning on replacing the spark plugs, but should I? Thanks
Yes they are race style no emissions.
You can just re-use your stock gaskets and bolts or get new ones. They don't come with the headers.
Yes our system is pretty close to what Texas speed has so you should be able to tuck it up pretty tight. (I mentioned I had installed UMI torque arm relocation to help tuck up true duals better)
All you need is some hand tools to install them. (Asked if you could install it all without welding)
A 10mm rachet wrench is very helpful with the header bolts.
Thanks, Carl
You can just re-use your stock gaskets and bolts or get new ones. They don't come with the headers.
Yes our system is pretty close to what Texas speed has so you should be able to tuck it up pretty tight. (I mentioned I had installed UMI torque arm relocation to help tuck up true duals better)
All you need is some hand tools to install them. (Asked if you could install it all without welding)
A 10mm rachet wrench is very helpful with the header bolts.
Thanks, Carl
1. long tube headers
2. LPP true duals
3. o2 extenders
4. AIR removal (headers are race style so no block off plates needed, but I guess there is a vacuum line that needs plugged up?)
5. Spohn solid motor mounts
6. GM exhaust gaskets (what sponsors sell these, and should I buy them or reuse old ones?)
7. Stage 8 locking header bolts (same question as last)
8. Dyno tune plus AIR and catalytic converter codes removed from computer
Am I missing anything? My car has 30,000 miles so I wasn't planning on replacing the spark plugs, but should I? Thanks
Last edited by X-ray; 07-14-2010 at 03:37 PM.
#5
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (3)
I'd buy all new gaskets. It's way easier to change them when you're doing a header install then to wait and need them in 5,000 miles. And depending on your budget, a lot of people recommend getting Corvette rear O2s to use instead of just the extensions, but then you're looking at another $140. Your call on how much you want to do.
#6
I installed LPP LT and duals a couple of months ago and you have exactly what I bought for the install, except I didn't get a tune and I also reused the stock header bolts. Do yourself a favor and use some anti-seize on the bolts too. Also, just to prevent any sort of leaks, I use silicone between the clamps and the exhaust pipe to make sure there is a perfect seal.
No AIR block plate is required when using non-emission headers. The AIR pump sucks air and pushes it directly into the headers. No vacuum tubes.
No AIR block plate is required when using non-emission headers. The AIR pump sucks air and pushes it directly into the headers. No vacuum tubes.
Trending Topics
#8
I installed LPP LT and duals a couple of months ago and you have exactly what I bought for the install, except I didn't get a tune and I also reused the stock header bolts. Do yourself a favor and use some anti-seize on the bolts too. Also, just to prevent any sort of leaks, I use silicone between the clamps and the exhaust pipe to make sure there is a perfect seal.
No AIR block plate is required when using non-emission headers. The AIR pump sucks air and pushes it directly into the headers. No vacuum tubes.
No AIR block plate is required when using non-emission headers. The AIR pump sucks air and pushes it directly into the headers. No vacuum tubes.
Also, how much vibrations did the solid motor mounts give you? I read they're not that bad, and you can only really feel it if your revs drop low when starting in 1st gear. I'm pretty sure I'm doing the solid MM though.
#10
Did you just use the provided hangers and clamps, or did you buy stainless clamps from someone else? I thought I remember reading somewhere on this site about buying different clamps than what LPP provides.
Also, how much vibrations did the solid motor mounts give you? I read they're not that bad, and you can only really feel it if your revs drop low when starting in 1st gear. I'm pretty sure I'm doing the solid MM though.
Also, how much vibrations did the solid motor mounts give you? I read they're not that bad, and you can only really feel it if your revs drop low when starting in 1st gear. I'm pretty sure I'm doing the solid MM though.
The solid motor mounts are awesome, I don't regret them one bit. Wherever you read that is true(was probably from me); vibrations are really only noticeable at low rpm/very slow launches. It does add a small vibrations/massage feeling on the seats, but I personally love that feeling.
cam + solid motor mounts + girl in passenger seat =
You have to run your car open headers at least once, even if only at idle
Why would the 2000s require blocking a port? Don't the all the ls6/ls1 manifolds have the same ports and hoses except for the EGR? I find it weird that GM would create a special intake/hose and a different AIR system just for the 2000 cars? I could be completely wrong though.
#12
Just put my orders through for LPP headers and x-pipe, Spohn solid MM, 24" o2 extensions, GM exhaust gaskets, and 8 NGK TR55 spark plugs. I'm gonna skip header bolts and reuse mine. I don't even feel like adding the different orders up.
I'll post a new thread once the install is done, which could be awhile. Everything's gotta get here first. I hate waiting on my baby
I'll post a new thread once the install is done, which could be awhile. Everything's gotta get here first. I hate waiting on my baby
#13
11 Second Club
iTrader: (17)
You will definately want different clamps. I have the LPP LTs and TDs, it leaks like crazy with their clamps. I actually had my system welded up except at the header and where the mufflers clamp to. I got the accuseal clamps, they work lots better. You can also slit the ends of the pipes so they will clamp down better. I ended up changing out my mufflers to, the interior noise was too much for me to handle. Got some Borla ProXS and they bolt right up with a little change to the muffler hangers. Pretty straight forward swap.
#15
TECH Addict
iTrader: (39)
Looks like you got the list about covered.. I dont know how thick the header flanges are, but make damn sure your bolts arent bottoming in the holes. I know when i bought my car with pacesetters, most of the bolts bottomed out, and i had exhaust leaks all over the place.
#16
I texted the guy who will be doing the install about header bolts and he said "prob should get them the heads on the old ones will probably be too big". Not sure what that means but I guess I will be buying header bolts.
As for the clamps, I'm going to wait until I get the system and check everything out. All good info here, I don't know what I'd do without this site. Probably drive my car around stock forever
Edit: I just bought Gardner Westcott GAR-56406-HSP Header Bolts, Hex Head, Stainless Steel, Polished, 8mm x 1.25, Chevy, 5.7, 6.0L, LS1, LS6, Set of 12
$18 shipped from Summit. They should work fine, hopefully.
Edit 2: I just checked my e-mail and I see LPP sent me the $50 refund to my credit card, which is what they say they do on their website. So, $825 shipped for an all stainless exhaust
As for the clamps, I'm going to wait until I get the system and check everything out. All good info here, I don't know what I'd do without this site. Probably drive my car around stock forever
Edit: I just bought Gardner Westcott GAR-56406-HSP Header Bolts, Hex Head, Stainless Steel, Polished, 8mm x 1.25, Chevy, 5.7, 6.0L, LS1, LS6, Set of 12
$18 shipped from Summit. They should work fine, hopefully.
Edit 2: I just checked my e-mail and I see LPP sent me the $50 refund to my credit card, which is what they say they do on their website. So, $825 shipped for an all stainless exhaust
Last edited by X-ray; 07-08-2010 at 03:13 PM.
#18
TECH Regular
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Over Here and Over There
Posts: 450
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#19
Staging Lane
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 55
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats the way they are made my friend. have seen this on previous owners threads and have the same dame thing on my set. Someone else had posted that Carl said it has something to do with the way they make em.
imo LPP is **** with absolutely no quality control and the cust service is a joke. Carl doesnt stand behind his product at all and his approach is tough ****.
#20
Thats the way they are made my friend. have seen this on previous owners threads and have the same dame thing on my set. Someone else had posted that Carl said it has something to do with the way they make em.
imo LPP is **** with absolutely no quality control and the cust service is a joke. Carl doesnt stand behind his product at all and his approach is tough ****.
imo LPP is **** with absolutely no quality control and the cust service is a joke. Carl doesnt stand behind his product at all and his approach is tough ****.