26926/26915 comp LSr springs
07-11-2010, 02:54 PM
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26926/26915 comp LSr springs What all is needed to run these, can I just put them in place of the stock ones, or do the need new retainers, locks, seats? Do the springs come with any of stuff?
I just can't seem to figure it out, but I'm planning on putting the smallest LSr cam in my 6.0L to try and up the torque output (215/223+5 on 112 .604/.610) and I don't know what springs to trust with LSL lobes because I hear they're fairly aggressive.
I've also been considering the PAC 1518 springs. I don't think I need to go overboard with springs, this is a truck engine that'll rarely see 5000rpm, and never more than 6000 if that. Would that be a viable option as well?
I just can't seem to figure it out, but I'm planning on putting the smallest LSr cam in my 6.0L to try and up the torque output (215/223+5 on 112 .604/.610) and I don't know what springs to trust with LSL lobes because I hear they're fairly aggressive.
I've also been considering the PAC 1518 springs. I don't think I need to go overboard with springs, this is a truck engine that'll rarely see 5000rpm, and never more than 6000 if that. Would that be a viable option as well?
07-11-2010, 05:32 PM
#2
To run the springs youll need the matching retainers, spring seats, and valve seals. Im running just a lsightly larger LSL lobed cam myself (219/235 .607/.621). 926s are the way to go. I would make sure to get the lightweight tool steel style retainers too. They are much stronger than titanium, doest wear away like titanum, within 2-3g of ti too.
Thats a good cam too, I saw a dyno graph of it at the AETC conference in 2008. IIRC it pulled until 6500 RPM and gained torque and power over the entire pull from 2500-6500
Thats a good cam too, I saw a dyno graph of it at the AETC conference in 2008. IIRC it pulled until 6500 RPM and gained torque and power over the entire pull from 2500-6500
07-11-2010, 06:01 PM
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Ugh, all told those springs are going to cost 400$ to set up correctly. I suppose they probably are worth it, springs aren't the place to skimp on.
How do you change the valve seals and seats?
How do you like that 219/235?
How do you change the valve seals and seats?
How do you like that 219/235?
07-12-2010, 01:47 AM
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I've found another contender, Lunati is a good brand and I couldn't find anything bad about these.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2584&gid=322
They're almost half the cost, ahh this indecisiveness will be my undoing for sure.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2584&gid=322
They're almost half the cost, ahh this indecisiveness will be my undoing for sure.
07-12-2010, 02:32 AM
#5
I've found another contender, Lunati is a good brand and I couldn't find anything bad about these.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2584&gid=322
They're almost half the cost, ahh this indecisiveness will be my undoing for sure.
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2584&gid=322
They're almost half the cost, ahh this indecisiveness will be my undoing for sure.
03-28-2011, 12:38 PM
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To run the springs youll need the matching retainers, spring seats, and valve seals. Im running just a lsightly larger LSL lobed cam myself (219/235 .607/.621). 926s are the way to go. I would make sure to get the lightweight tool steel style retainers too. They are much stronger than titanium, doest wear away like titanum, within 2-3g of ti too.
Thats a good cam too, I saw a dyno graph of it at the AETC conference in 2008. IIRC it pulled until 6500 RPM and gained torque and power over the entire pull from 2500-6500
Thats a good cam too, I saw a dyno graph of it at the AETC conference in 2008. IIRC it pulled until 6500 RPM and gained torque and power over the entire pull from 2500-6500
