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$20 reward - dyno HP,.Torque, next project step recommendation

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Old 07-20-2010, 10:45 PM
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Default $20 reward - dyno HP,.Torque, next project step recommendation

98 Trans AM 100% stock with exception of SLP lid & K&N filter on intake
swapping out stock LS1 with built LS6 w/LT's & stall (likely yank) 500rpm below peak max dyno HP
Engine details
> 36k miles LS6 aluminum short block (04 Z06 Vette) clean - completely dissembled inspected cleaned etc - like new with stock rotating assembly
> LG Motorsports G5X3 114 LSA cam (<9k miles)
> 853 heads that have been CNC ported and polished and milled to 59cc with valves, they flow like to afr 225's (<1k miles)
>new (non ported) LS6 intake manifold
> new push-rods for geometrical fit to new cam
> stock set of rocker arms

i hope this post is not offensive to anyone or against site policy - if this is the case please let me know and I'll delete it immediately - not trying to t anyone off- just looking for some help & direction.

aside from slp lid and new engine and LT's all else is 100% stock - what is best estimate for crank and rwhp and torque?

whats is recommended next mod(s) for near daily driver (weekends mostly) that doesn't see much track time but pretty regular (safe) road racing vs. cobra's, tuners etc. - should I seek more power or start to focus on handling (ie suspension upgrades), fuel management/ - I'm admittedly not sure best direction to focus on and prioritize as far as next phase based on my aforementioned goals.

Thanks in advance for great feedback - $20 reward for top response will be sent via amex gift card or snail mail of cash hidden in non see thru security envelope from CVS/Walgreens.

Thanks in advance for the great feedback !
Old 07-20-2010, 10:52 PM
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I would say about 390 to the rear wheels. I would send those stock rockers to Harland and have them swap out the bearings for some better ones to prevent them from spilling their guts over and maybe damaging your new engine. They offer an upgrade to the stock rockers that makes them a lot better as far as longevity is concerned.
also I did not read anything about tunning the car. with all those new mods, I would be tunning the car to be able to get everything possible from the combo.
good luck man.
Old 07-20-2010, 11:07 PM
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You can upgrade those stock rockers with the Comp Cams trunion kit as well for about $139 just for another option.

His guess ^^^^ is probably +/- 5 of what I would tell you as well.

Here is the deal. You really can't compare those 853's even with the cnc job to the likes of a 225 AFR head. Only way you would really know is to toss those bad boys on a flow bench and go upwards of .700. That being said it is tough to really say what kind of power you will see. If that is some really excellent headwork you may have something there, but I am willing to bet a set of LS6 heads with a shave and cnc you would make more power.

Bottom line. If you are going to be making some power, even in stock form, you need to have a good way to plant it to the ground. Suspension is just as important as engine work. People modify suspensions on these cars and toss on a lid and a set of gears and throw down some pretty nice times with stock heads and cam.
Old 07-20-2010, 11:17 PM
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Suspension and a dyno tune is a good idea for next mod. You should put down the 390 easy after that. Now focus on the handling. Sway bars, lac, pan hard, sub frames, shock(prolly most important) torque arm, kmember, a arms. Etc
Old 07-20-2010, 11:57 PM
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> 853 heads that have been CNC ported and polished and milled to 59cc with valves, they flow like to afr 225's (<1k miles)

^^^^This is out of control^^^^ I wish you the best of luck. A statement like this is ignorant. I think you will make good usable power but this quote is a just not right.
Old 07-21-2010, 12:19 AM
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I'm kind of missing what you are trying to achieve. If you'd like to achieve more of a reliable, stable road race type car I would talk to Sam Strano. It won't cost you any money to talk to him and he'll be able to guide you better than 99% of the people on here in regards to suspension.

If you are looking for putting a combo together talk to an engine builder or shop that sells parts. A simple phone call is all that is needed towards getting you setup without costing you money or time sending people gift cards.
Old 07-21-2010, 12:24 AM
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Originally Posted by ABQ99TA
> 853 heads that have been CNC ported and polished and milled to 59cc with valves, they flow like to afr 225's (<1k miles)

^^^^This is out of control^^^^ I wish you the best of luck. A statement like this is ignorant. I think you will make good usable power but this quote is a just not right.
Well, hang on a second. It's not ignorant if you are uninformed about the differences.
Old 07-21-2010, 12:28 AM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
Well, hang on a second. It's not ignorant if you are uninformed about the differences.
My bad, I'm sorry, didn't mean to offend anyone. That being said I don't think it was that far off base.
Old 07-21-2010, 12:33 AM
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There is a difference, but you are going to see it in different areas most likely. Hard to compare decent apples to awesome apples ya know. I hear what you were saying though.
Old 07-21-2010, 04:29 AM
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I'm going to guess 402 to the tire.
Old 07-21-2010, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 98hc4mula
I would say about 390 to the rear wheels. I would send those stock rockers to Harland and have them swap out the bearings for some better ones to prevent them from spilling their guts over and maybe damaging your new engine. They offer an upgrade to the stock rockers that makes them a lot better as far as longevity is concerned.
also I did not read anything about tunning the car. with all those new mods, I would be tunning the car to be able to get everything possible from the combo.
good luck man.
Thanks for the feedback, especially about the rockers, I will definitely look into this. Also, yes I didn't mention but because of the cam, heads & new LT's a dyno tune with a HP Tuner or equivalent (not via a handheld) is definitely going to happen.
Old 07-21-2010, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
You can upgrade those stock rockers with the Comp Cams trunion kit as well for about $139 just for another option.

His guess ^^^^ is probably +/- 5 of what I would tell you as well.

Here is the deal. You really can't compare those 853's even with the cnc job to the likes of a 225 AFR head. Only way you would really know is to toss those bad boys on a flow bench and go upwards of .700. That being said it is tough to really say what kind of power you will see. If that is some really excellent headwork you may have something there, but I am willing to bet a set of LS6 heads with a shave and cnc you would make more power.

Bottom line. If you are going to be making some power, even in stock form, you need to have a good way to plant it to the ground. Suspension is just as important as engine work. People modify suspensions on these cars and toss on a lid and a set of gears and throw down some pretty nice times with stock heads and cam.
I don't disagree with your and a couple of the others statements on the heads, if $ was no issue I'd replace them with better heads from AFR or Patriot Performance, I'm admittedly trying to be optimistic about what I realize isn't the best heads money can buy, however I did some homework and found all the P&P and milling work was done by a reputable machine shop by Pete Incaudo at VMAX/CNC machine works in Tampa and also got a 2nd look by Tracy Lewis (RevXtreme) and he was pleasantly suprised when he inspected them and found them to be alot better than I even expected, I'm comfortable that I'm not cutting a corner that I'll regrert later (no spray and this is a streetcar not a track car) -so for my application IMHO they're solid. Unfortunately AFR's just are not in my budget, if they were I'd definitely go that route. I'm optimistic my logic is on point, as you know however only time will tell. Thanks again for the reinforcing opinion on the rockers and suggestion on the suspension & Comp Cams trunion kit, I'll likely at minimum put in some SFC's and SLP Bilstein's.

Last edited by bossho; 07-22-2010 at 08:38 PM.
Old 07-21-2010, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
I'm kind of missing what you are trying to achieve. If you'd like to achieve more of a reliable, stable road race type car I would talk to Sam Strano. It won't cost you any money to talk to him and he'll be able to guide you better than 99% of the people on here in regards to suspension.

If you are looking for putting a combo together talk to an engine builder or shop that sells parts. A simple phone call is all that is needed towards getting you setup without costing you money or time sending people gift cards.
Yes, my goal is exactly what you mentioned (a reliable, stable road race type car - in my case succinctly a Cobra & Tuner Killer - not sure if your familiar but Tampa Bay is arguably by far the best city in America for street racing performance.- Thanks for the useful feedback - Sam Strano gave me some good advice when I was building 2 different Stangs over the past cpl of years , I will definitely be consulting with him to prioritize acquiring handling mods based on my current set-up, goals & budget.

Thanks again !

Sincerely,
Tom Sullivan

Last edited by bossho; 07-21-2010 at 11:34 PM.
Old 07-21-2010, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bossho
I don't disagree with your and a couple of the others statements on the heads, if $ was no issue I'd replace them with better heads from AFR or Patriot Performance, I'm admittedly trying to be optimistic about what I realize isn't the best heads money can buy, however I did some homework and found all the P&P and milling work was done by a reputable machine shop by Pete Incaudo at CNC machine works in Tampa and also got a 2nd look by Tracy Lewis (formerly of Revxtreme) and he was pleasantly suprised when he inspected them and found them to be alot better than I even expected, I'm comfortable that I'm not cutting a corner that I'll regrert later (no spray and this is a streetcar not a track car) -so for my application IMHO they're solid. Unfortunately AFR's just are not in my budget, if they were I'd definitely go that route. I'm optimistic my logic is on point, as you know however only time will tell. Thanks again for the reinforcing opinion on the rockers and suggestion on the suspension & Comp Cams trunion kit, I'll likely at minimum put in some SFC's and SLP Bilstein's.

I ran a set of cnc ported 853's years ago and for a budget setup 600$ out the door assembled I could not have done better. I just wanted to "gently" point out the AFR comment so you didnt get absolutely trampled for the next 30 posts. Just didnt want it to get out of control on ya. Like you said and I said, if you got them checked out and they were performing better than what was expected, consider yourself on top at that point.
Old 07-22-2010, 01:46 AM
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As far as your next mods, what have you done suspension- and drivetrain-wise?

If the drivetrain and suspension are mostly stock, I'm going to recommend lower control arms with relocation brackets, a torque arm w/ a relocation crossmember, springs and shocks that will put the car in the direction you like (whether it be road racing, drag racing, cruising, looking good etc.), and lastly you're probably going to be investing in a rear end at some point. I don't know how long your 10 bolt will live, but automatic cars are nicer to them than T-56 cars. However, it is still a weak point and your car will be making some pretty good power. Since you're an auto, you can get away with investing in a 12 bolt as opposed to a 9''.
Old 07-24-2010, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by PowerShift408
As far as your next mods, what have you done suspension- and drivetrain-wise?

If the drivetrain and suspension are mostly stock, I'm going to recommend lower control arms with relocation brackets, a torque arm w/ a relocation crossmember, springs and shocks that will put the car in the direction you like (whether it be road racing, drag racing, cruising, looking good etc.), and lastly you're probably going to be investing in a rear end at some point. I don't know how long your 10 bolt will live, but automatic cars are nicer to them than T-56 cars. However, it is still a weak point and your car will be making some pretty good power. Since you're an auto, you can get away with investing in a 12 bolt as opposed to a 9''.
I'm still 100% stock, my plan was to start with shocks & struts all the way around, maybe the SLP Bilstein shock & strut package with Eibach Springs, or maybe even a used decent set of Koni Yellow's if I can find a set & SFC's, it really comes down to best bang for the buck & what I can find a good deal on that will meet my needs. Also I picked up the Prothane Master bushing kit (red) so since engine is out and I'm going to be pulling tranny to inspect & likely beef up a bit I'd go ahead and install the "Prothane" "Total Kit" master bushing kit - it's pretty extensive & includes bushings for: (Joint Boots, Body Mounts, C-Arm Rear,C-Arm Front Drive Train, Shifter Bushings, Shock Bushings, Spring Pads/Coll Iso, Spring Shackle Rear, Steering Bushings, Strut Arm/Rod Strut Tower, Sway Bar Bushing, Sway Bar End Links, Tie Rod Boots, Trans Mount), the kits was about $250-$300 but installing it is going to be labor intensive, i'd like to hear how you would prioritize upgrading my currently stock suspension & drive train? I know I will have to eventually upgrade my rear axle with something to support the power/stress I'll be putting on it. I was going to try and hold off on at least temporarily with a Moser etc. being a significant investment, I understand mine won't last forever though especially if I abuse it like I plan on via mostly road racing (not running 1/4 miles at track) safety is a huge concern, I understand I may have to go somewhat easy (not ***** out 110%) unfortunately until my rear end is solid. Thanks for your input & in advance for any additional feedback/direction you may have as to prioritizing my suspension / drive-train enhancements.

Last edited by bossho; 07-24-2010 at 11:09 PM.




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