Really Need Some Advice...4L60E will not work after mutiple rebuilds
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Really Need Some Advice...4L60E will not work after mutiple rebuilds
I've been having many trans issues over the past 2 years. It went out the first time due to a check ball getting stuck in the seperator plate. Ok, fine normal. 2nd time my builder left half my TransGo shift kit out for the 3-4 gears. Whatever, people make mistakes, he fixed it for free and made it right. But since then that trans went 3000 miles then started slipping in 3-4 and eventually died. I have since taken it to another builder.
The new builder attempted repairs on it, I had no reverse when i took it out for a test drive. Issue was "fixed", something in the valve body. Somehow it put the trans in a hydraulic lock. I put the car in drive gave it about 2k rpm and it popped a cooler line and moved forward. So trans was taken back out for repairs. "Fixed" once again and blew a cooler line about 4 miles down the road after i got it back. Got it back again and drove it fine for 4 days. Broke the new convertor from Circle D in and on the 4th day.
I get the oh so familiar 3-4 clutch flare.
I really just need to have someone throw some ideas to me. What could cause this failure multiple times? I know the MAF is cleaned regularly by me, no codes are shown, torque management is removed. I'm beginning to think its a valve body issue or have a fluid leak somewhere.
I really can't keep pouring money into this thing to not have it to work. I'm in college and have to pay for rent. I literally have not driven the car in 12 months except for those 4 days. I really need the help guys , I miss my baby.
The new builder attempted repairs on it, I had no reverse when i took it out for a test drive. Issue was "fixed", something in the valve body. Somehow it put the trans in a hydraulic lock. I put the car in drive gave it about 2k rpm and it popped a cooler line and moved forward. So trans was taken back out for repairs. "Fixed" once again and blew a cooler line about 4 miles down the road after i got it back. Got it back again and drove it fine for 4 days. Broke the new convertor from Circle D in and on the 4th day.
I get the oh so familiar 3-4 clutch flare.
I really just need to have someone throw some ideas to me. What could cause this failure multiple times? I know the MAF is cleaned regularly by me, no codes are shown, torque management is removed. I'm beginning to think its a valve body issue or have a fluid leak somewhere.
I really can't keep pouring money into this thing to not have it to work. I'm in college and have to pay for rent. I literally have not driven the car in 12 months except for those 4 days. I really need the help guys , I miss my baby.
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I'm asking for help guys, not criticism. To be honest with all of you, if it had been up to me I would be posting over in the M6 forum right now, but dad insisted I keep the a4 and that it would be fixable. I'm seriously this desperate for help right now. I'm beginning to think its not hard parts, but I still don't want to rule that out right now. I don't know anything about these things yet. Auto trans class is next year. So I don't know every thing in the world. Its getting to the point where if nothing gets done with it after this rebuild, im selling my 68 camaro project to fund a sponsor trans. If not that, its getting sent out to one of the shops to diagnose. But who's to say they do any better. Theres plenty of people out there with locally built trans' holding up to this power. Who's not to say its not the tune etc. Hell for all i know that TB could be affecting the tune the wrong way. I've been to numerous shops and asked about it. I've gotten so many different answers its not even funny.
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Its not likley the parts themselves that are causing the issue as from what you postd they are comonly used parts in many builds. Likley if you were having the same issue multiple times wit the same unit i would say there is some hydraulic issue and suggest statring wit a fresh core at least thats what I would do.
No ones going to be able to give you an specifics on what could be wrong there are just to many variables involved unfortunatley.
The flare you mention is however some hydraulic issue thats not being found snd is not likley and issue with the vehicle itself. And your dads right the auto can handle what you have and with the right stall is way faster than the 6 speed would be in your car. And make no mistake te 6 speed guys get int issue too. Because we have no core reauirement we get quiet of few swtiching from the 6 speed to the auto and mre than you would think switching back I guess its a grass is greener thing.
No ones going to be able to give you an specifics on what could be wrong there are just to many variables involved unfortunatley.
The flare you mention is however some hydraulic issue thats not being found snd is not likley and issue with the vehicle itself. And your dads right the auto can handle what you have and with the right stall is way faster than the 6 speed would be in your car. And make no mistake te 6 speed guys get int issue too. Because we have no core reauirement we get quiet of few swtiching from the 6 speed to the auto and mre than you would think switching back I guess its a grass is greener thing.
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you mean your other left?????? lol.
seriously call vince @ FLT.......to put it nicely,we had issues with the trans going in & out of our car....
1 call to them & everything worked like it should,like they advertise......
good luck!!!!!!
seriously call vince @ FLT.......to put it nicely,we had issues with the trans going in & out of our car....
1 call to them & everything worked like it should,like they advertise......
good luck!!!!!!
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Wow, guess everyone has a ton of cash laying around to buy a sponser trans. While they may be great and all not everyone can drop coin on them. Sounds to me like you have a bunch of retards working on your trans. If I was in your position I would check line pressure in the tune and just buy a good used unit. With your mods listed a stock 60e can take that all day long and not flinch. Sounds like tolerance stack wasn't checked if you keep having 3-4 problems. I put 400rwhp through my stock 60e everyday and beat the **** out of it. Only thing I have is a shiftkit and HE 2-4 band with a nice tight tolerance on the 3-4 pack.
#12
I don't think anyone is criticizing you. Just my opinion but a lot of people need to hear it before it sinks in and you see the problem and have a better idea of what to do about it, and that is to find a better shop.
The sponsors on here build a high percentage of 4L60E's as compared to a local shop who has to build whatever comes in the door. There might be a good local shop near you, problem is finding it. Or fixing it yourself.
It's not that difficult but you have to be sure you find the cause of the failure, not just the cause of the symptoms.
It also wouldn't hurt to put some tuning equipment on it to see whats going on.
That transmission class isn't going to jump right into how to build performance 4L60E's.
The sponsors on here build a high percentage of 4L60E's as compared to a local shop who has to build whatever comes in the door. There might be a good local shop near you, problem is finding it. Or fixing it yourself.
It's not that difficult but you have to be sure you find the cause of the failure, not just the cause of the symptoms.
It also wouldn't hurt to put some tuning equipment on it to see whats going on.
That transmission class isn't going to jump right into how to build performance 4L60E's.
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Well let me ask this...since you guys seem to not think it its not hard parts which is what I had been thinking. What other things can i check that would cause these problems. I've been wanting to take it to a real shop like performabilt or flt. But who says I don't throw a 2000 dollar trans in and pop the 3-4 clutch? I just don't need to deal with that crap again.
So I'll call one of those guys, but I need to know what else to check. I'll try and get the tables from my tuner. Which ones would you guys like to see? I've had many local guys tell me its the TB which i really don't believe at all. I could see maybe if i changed the MAF or something.
And i know it wouldnt teach me performance builds but at least id know more than i know right now. In my eyes theres no problem with that. Sorry if i came off as a dick, definitley not what I'm trying to seem like. I will accept any help i can get you know?
Pressures btw. R- 90psi, D is like 190 i believe. I'll check them for sure and get back to you guys soon. We have had a mechanical gauge on it before
So I'll call one of those guys, but I need to know what else to check. I'll try and get the tables from my tuner. Which ones would you guys like to see? I've had many local guys tell me its the TB which i really don't believe at all. I could see maybe if i changed the MAF or something.
And i know it wouldnt teach me performance builds but at least id know more than i know right now. In my eyes theres no problem with that. Sorry if i came off as a dick, definitley not what I'm trying to seem like. I will accept any help i can get you know?
Pressures btw. R- 90psi, D is like 190 i believe. I'll check them for sure and get back to you guys soon. We have had a mechanical gauge on it before
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Wish i could provide that info, but i dont have HPtuners, theres no trans in the car right now, and also the tune i have on my car is from awhile ago.
#16
Ok, heres a hypothetical....
If I bought your car as is I'd take the trans apart and air check each clutch, and inspect everything. Something you could do.
Then I'd look at the tune.
I'd either find a problem with the trans AND the cause of the problem and fix it.
If I found burned up clutches and no reason why, I'd consider getting a different core and starting over.
I don't know your situation, but you say the trans is out, and you say you're going to take a transmission class. Now might be a good time to open it up and see what you can do.
If I bought your car as is I'd take the trans apart and air check each clutch, and inspect everything. Something you could do.
Then I'd look at the tune.
I'd either find a problem with the trans AND the cause of the problem and fix it.
If I found burned up clutches and no reason why, I'd consider getting a different core and starting over.
I don't know your situation, but you say the trans is out, and you say you're going to take a transmission class. Now might be a good time to open it up and see what you can do.
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I've been having many trans issues over the past 2 years. It went out the first time due to a check ball getting stuck in the seperator plate. Ok, fine normal. 2nd time my builder left half my TransGo shift kit out for the 3-4 gears. Whatever, people make mistakes, he fixed it for free and made it right. But since then that trans went 3000 miles then started slipping in 3-4 and eventually died. I have since taken it to another builder.
The new builder attempted repairs on it, I had no reverse when i took it out for a test drive. Issue was "fixed", something in the valve body. Somehow it put the trans in a hydraulic lock. I put the car in drive gave it about 2k rpm and it popped a cooler line and moved forward. So trans was taken back out for repairs. "Fixed" once again and blew a cooler line about 4 miles down the road after i got it back. Got it back again and drove it fine for 4 days. Broke the new convertor from Circle D in and on the 4th day.
I get the oh so familiar 3-4 clutch flare.
I really just need to have someone throw some ideas to me. What could cause this failure multiple times? I know the MAF is cleaned regularly by me, no codes are shown, torque management is removed. I'm beginning to think its a valve body issue or have a fluid leak somewhere.
I really can't keep pouring money into this thing to not have it to work. I'm in college and have to pay for rent. I literally have not driven the car in 12 months except for those 4 days. I really need the help guys , I miss my baby.
The new builder attempted repairs on it, I had no reverse when i took it out for a test drive. Issue was "fixed", something in the valve body. Somehow it put the trans in a hydraulic lock. I put the car in drive gave it about 2k rpm and it popped a cooler line and moved forward. So trans was taken back out for repairs. "Fixed" once again and blew a cooler line about 4 miles down the road after i got it back. Got it back again and drove it fine for 4 days. Broke the new convertor from Circle D in and on the 4th day.
I get the oh so familiar 3-4 clutch flare.
I really just need to have someone throw some ideas to me. What could cause this failure multiple times? I know the MAF is cleaned regularly by me, no codes are shown, torque management is removed. I'm beginning to think its a valve body issue or have a fluid leak somewhere.
I really can't keep pouring money into this thing to not have it to work. I'm in college and have to pay for rent. I literally have not driven the car in 12 months except for those 4 days. I really need the help guys , I miss my baby.
You need to find someone like that. He'll rebuilt it for you if you ship it to him, it'll probably cost half the price of most shops for shipping and the total rebuild. I doubt there's a better tranny guy anywhere then him, for the 4L60E anyway. He's a tranny guy at a Dodge dealer right now, but has worked for race shops in the past on hundreds of 4L60E's and other GM stuff.
.
#19