trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Had a few questions about launching at the drag strip.

I put a 3500 tci super street fighter stall in my car, never been to the track with a stalled car. Last trip out she went 14.4, 2200da, with nitto 555r, 3.23 gears, flowbastard, ebay intake, rubber intake elbow jammed into t/b (lawl). Now she has new intake elbow, cutout, 3500stall.

Anyways, i was launching off idle befor, zero wheel spin with nicely heated 555r's. What RPM do i want to launch at now? I hear some pretty awesome storys about people dropping .4 - .6 tenths of a second in the 1/4 after putting in a stall. Wondering how they are launching tho.

Do i gain or loose anything by launching at a higher rpm rather then a lower rpm with the mods i have? Should i start at a certain rpm and change it accordingly?

Any input would be awesome.

havent had a lick of an issue with the converter yet, its been in the car for about 3 weeks now, and befor that was in another car. so i beleive i may have got one of the better built ones! I still have TCI horror stories in the back of my head tho everytime i go out in the car.

Also, would i benifit anything at all by going from 3.23 gears to 3.42? id switch the entire rear end out of a 3.42 car.

Doug G

Launch the same way if you're foot braking. You want to flash the converter.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

no benefits really with 3.42's.

Most street converters like to launch at idle(flashing). Maybe rev it to 1,000rpm just to take some of the slack out of the drivetrain but pretty much stay close to idle. I mean you can also try launching at higher rpms and see what it does.


with my FTI converter just taking off at idle resulted in better launches. Take advantage of the torque multiplication.

lt1-xjs

I always launch from idle.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Different manufactuers of converters require different launching methods. Some like to be loaded and some like to be flashed. track testing is a must for you.

Slowmaro95Z28

Off idle with the same converter I pulled a 1.6 60' with mods listed in sig. Holding at around 2000 rpm got me a 1.7 60'. I would say off idle is the best for this converter with my setup. Either way just try launching different on every run until you find what works for your setup. Good luck.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

very nice slowmaro! sounds like ill start from idle and work my way up if i feel the need

If i dont get sub 2.0 60's this time out ill be pissed! Car needs some work tho, she is running rich as hell and leaking from everywhere lol. shes a project! this winter she will get a overhaul, seals and hopefully LE2 head/cam package

joelster

You will have to experiment for yourself to see what is best. Do 2 runs where you hold it at the line at an idle and then romp the gas on the green light. This will give you the highest "flash" and will feel violent. STUDY those timeslips carefully and when you can get 2 very close slips as far as 60-foot and 1/8th et, then try launching the car by foot-braking it to 2500rpm. This pre-loads the converter. The launch won't seem as hard, but you might be surprised at the 60-foot time and the ET. My car likes to be pre-loaded, and will usually 60-foot .04-.05 better and 1/8th mile a full tenth better.

Slowmaro95Z28

Thank you.

Just fixing any leaks and maybe a tuneup might be a good idea before the track. I would get some 3.73's too. They helped me a lot. I did them right before my converter.

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

Like most of these guys said, right foot on the brake, when you want to launch, take the right foot off the brake and slam it on the gas immediately, the converter will do the rest of the work.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

The leaks are gonna be a winter thing, Id like to pull the motor and clean everything. the k member and steering rack is absolutly caked with road grime and oil/fluid. I beleive the head gaskets are seeping as well, rear of the intake manifold gasket is damp. Oil pan is leaking. it just plain sucks!!! they arnt big leaks but enough that its just leak overload. thats why in the process of fixing it all i want to just do heads and cam as well, headers would be a breeze with the engine out of the car, it all would be. i figure the opti and wires and plugs can wait till then as well, no rush, she isnt my only car. just a toy.

Also my buddy has a 01 mustang bullitt with cams, intake, t/b, midlenght headers, magnaflow with offroad x pipe, 3.73 gears. He gets zero traction (his problem not mine heh). so last time out the old trans am went 14.4 (with issues) and he went 14.3 . his best is a 13.7. i hope to beat that next time out. It just adds to the fun that a 94 trans am that doesnt have much done to it, has 125k miles, and leaks everywhere, beat him!

Thanks for the input joelster, a tenth in the 1/8th can also add up in the 1/4! (my track)

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

My converter 60's better when I foot brake it to max stall...

Then again last time I went I kept having a little stumble when I tried to launch off of an idle...

Just hit the track and do 2 runs of each and see what your setup likes the best...

Best of luck!

Matt

Johnny-LT1-runner

iTrader: (15)

Big stall>Sticky tires>Big gears>Tree is red>Idle>Left foot on brake>Right foot over gas>Last yellow hits>Let off brake and smash gas simultaneously>Tree is green>Rocketship!

lt1-xjs

Exactly.

jasonz28camaro

iTrader: (13)

not to jack this but how do you flash the stall or go from an idle? sorry

WS Sick

My vigilante liked me to load it a little and mash it on the last amber

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

"Big stall>Sticky tires>Big gears>Tree is red>Idle>Left foot on brake>Right foot over gas>Last yellow hits>Let off brake and smash gas simultaneously>Tree is green>Rocketship"

If that doesnt get you in the racing mood i dont know what will!

last time out i would do that, let off brake and mash it, but stock converter with sticky nt555r's she would launch and first gear would feel like 2nd. zero wheel spin and it would 2.209 60' if this stall doesnt get me sub 2.0 60's i wont be happy!

its supposed to be a high of 75 saturday here, I'd be stupid not to go to the track!

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

In my understanding "Flashing the stall" and "going from an idle" are the same thing. basically you dont touch the gas pedel until your ready to fly.

I think you may have "flashing" confused with "Preloading". Preloading the stall is where you have one foot on the brake while the other is on the gas pedal. This is where you will get into the different brake stall rpms vs flash rpms.

If you go out to your car now and put some weight on the brake pedal and give it gas at the same time, befor you break the tires loose or the car starts to move forward, whatever rpm that is is your brake stall. I am not sure what the stock stalls are but you wont make it much past 1200rpms. With a higher stall , say 3000-3600, you will be able to get to say 2000-2500rpms.

The use of this is so when you launch, the stall will flash to around whatever rpm its rated for (some lower, some higher then advertised depending on application) if you have a 3500 stall, when you mash the gas from a stop the rpms jump up and your instantly into the powerband rather then having to go through the lower rpms, and the car takes off like a rocket. Some people compare it to a stick shift being clutch dropped, i wouldnt say that... Its like doing a clutch drop in a stick shift, only you never mess up!

lt1-xjs

It was well put but, Flooring it at the red light when it turns green is the same, idle + floor = flash. The left foot is on the break so it dosen't roll.

Ralls

iTrader: (32)

Stalling it up (holding brake and raising the RPM higher than idle) never worked well for me. Yank SS3200 is my stall. It just seems to bog and accelerate slow. Smashing it down from idle is the best.
I'm turbo now, so I tried to brake boost it while crusing and it still takes off slow. Takes off like a bat out of hell if you just slam the throttle down.