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iTrader: (16)

Well, I bought a 1997 SS with a Vortech/Aftercooler set up on it. 6 speed, already bought headers, GMMG is coming, but the engine is blown and I need some help. I'm shooting for 600+ to the wheels, already looking at buying a dynaspark, doing a 383 or a 355 with a lower the compression ratio, but that's where I'm lost. I'm looking to see what brand or what components everyone recommends as far as the engine, bottom end as well as the top end are. Looking at an LE top end so far. Also with what fuel upgrades should be done? I have whatever comes with the Vortech kit, don't know if that's enough. Also a recommendation on what clutch everyone is running, rear end will probably be a Moser, all suspension is already done, mostly bottom end help and clutch recommendations. Any other suggestions would be helpful, looking for a streetable SS, don't care about gas mileage or how it drives. Just want it to be fast

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MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

LE setups can definately make some power, I'd give them a call to see what exactly they reccomend for a blown application for heads/cam.

whatever you do for engine internals, don't skimp out. Don't try to save money there, if you do, you'll likely have to spend twice-buy what you need.

How many psi can you run out of that supercharger?

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iTrader: (16)

I don't know how much boost this is capable of, hopefully someone will chime. I'm definetly not skimping out on the bottom end, which is why I need some suggestions! Money will be spent where it needs to be.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

You really need to call Lloyd Elliot and just have a conversation with him. He is a great guy to bounce stuff off of. He may be able to help you with piston choice and what kind of boost that blower can make and where you want to be. There is a point on boost that the LT1 pcm is not the best choice in the world. You may want to look at the EFI connection stuff and just spend the money to convert it and it will run right. No more opti and no surge and high end cut out.

86formula

iTrader: (3)

i would also consider a strange 12 bolt rather than moser, the 4 short bolts that the moser has have a history of backing out. mine were tack welded so they couldnt and when we checked them today the welds were actually broken and the bolts started loosening

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iTrader: (16)

Your talking about for the torque arm aren't you? That happened to a few people I know, and my brothers car, does the strange have the 2 straight through ones instead of the 4?

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97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

I would do an all forged 383 with a Compstar 4340 crank and 6" rods, -22cc dished forged pistons, splayed billet mains, Canton or other larger capacity oilpan, LE3 heads and custom blower cam, Shon Herron billet oil pump drive housing and a Melling Select oilpump. for the rear I would recommend the Strange S60 - Dana 60 rear as it's one of the strongest you can get.

tbird31

iTrader: (22)

man speaks the truth...clutch wise I'd probably do a twin disk of some sort to give you more of a street-able application. Also, you'll want to look into driveshafts as I'm sure an aluminum 3" that comes stock with some f-bodys will not be able to suffice the power you are wanting to achieve.

I agree also with doing a PCM conversion, I've looked more and more into the LS1 computer swap and I must say...I'm starting to save my pennies...

86formula

iTrader: (3)

yeah, the strange housing has 2 straight through.

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iTrader: (16)

Now thats an answer I was looking for!

I'll be giving Lloyd a call in the morning and see what he suggests, he's somewhat local to me. So far got suggestions on the rear end, still looking for some clutch suggestions, only one off the top my head I can think of is the McLeod. Also I don't think the PCM conversion is something I want to tackle, so far after some searching it seems the dynaspark should suffice. If I can only hit a certain target with the stock computer and set up, so be it. I really just want a stout street car, it will rarely see the track. Its main use is a car to have fun in...

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gregrob

iTrader: (8)

spray it

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

600rw is nothing to sneeze at. I would get quality parts.

Crank, lunati, compstar, callies
rods, lunati, manley, oliver,
pistons, JE, Diamond, Ross

There are more good parts to chose from than what i just mentioned but most willl agree not to do 600HP on a budget.

LE or AI for the topend and let them pick a custom cam.
9 inch or S60 rearend if you ever want to have any fun
50-60lb injectors, dual intank 255 pumps or a 420. a 255 is maxed out at 600
ST clutch or another twin disk
strong aftermarket DS, there are many
suspension, well it depends on what you want to do with it.

I hope you have deep pockers

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iTrader: (16)

I don't understand why some say not to do it on a budget, I never once said I was? Anyway, these are some good suggestions, what's an ST clutch btw? I'll throw these ideas around with Lloyd & see what we come up with. I'll keep yal updated

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SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

With what you have said, this build is going to cost you several thousand dollars to have it done right. I would dare to say at least 10K for an assembled short block using top notch quality parts and whatever heads/intake of your choice. That doesn't include final assembly or tuning. There really aren't a lot of members who make a thread stating "money is no object" type posts. Those who do usually don't know what they're getting into which is why caution has been mentioned regarding budget parts.
ST= McCleod Street Twin.

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iTrader: (16)

It's not that money is no object, it's just I'm willing to spend where it needs to be spent, ten grand seems like I'm building an all out race car. I'll be doing everything myself excluding building the engine, only labor I'm expecting to pay for is machining and assembly. But I understand why now, so thanks for the heads up. Hopefully my pockets can be that deep for this build

tscheu5452

Check out Midwest Chassis for your rear end. They build a sweet 9" for the F body. Plus with the purchase of the rear end, they give a nice discount on chromoly suspension parts.
I will have an Inland Empire 3" aluminum driveshaft for sale in the near future (switching to carbon fiber).[IMG][/IMG]

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Depending on the machine shop the short block alone will cost upwards of 5 to 6K using quality parts. Good luck. I've always had a soft spot for those wanting to go all out with boost.