IM Thinking about a 800+HP LT1 turbo build
09-23-2010, 12:46 PM
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IM Thinking about a 800+HP LT1 turbo build I have a lt1 on my shop rack, and one in my camaro that runs, i want to build the **** out of one of them...
whats the best of best parts...
like heads...
pistons and all forged
bottom end...
cam...
intake...
roller rockers...
turbo set up and turbo...
i have a trans built for 700 rwhp... and 2500 stall...
i live in north ga... above atlanta... and there might be some shop that are good to build it, i want a list of parts, and figure up the cost of it, and get prices... and start getting parts, ill probably put the motor in my self... but iv never rebuilt a motor so im gonna let someone who know there **** do it...lol
please help me out i want this to be on a low boost 700-800 hp and can push 900+ lol
whats the best of best parts...
like heads...
pistons and all forged
bottom end...
cam...
intake...
roller rockers...
turbo set up and turbo...
i have a trans built for 700 rwhp... and 2500 stall...
i live in north ga... above atlanta... and there might be some shop that are good to build it, i want a list of parts, and figure up the cost of it, and get prices... and start getting parts, ill probably put the motor in my self... but iv never rebuilt a motor so im gonna let someone who know there **** do it...lol
please help me out i want this to be on a low boost 700-800 hp and can push 900+ lol
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09-23-2010, 01:40 PM
#8
I hope you have DEEP pockets. VERY DEEP pockets. I'm finishing up my turbo build now and have eclipsed the $25K mark for this project. For the kind of power you're saying you want, you're going to need aftermarket everything and quality parts everywhere if you want it to last. And I don't mean just upgrading to forged eagle or scat crank and rods. I'm talking names like Callies, Lunati, Oliver, ect. You might get away with lower end stuff, but I'd highly question any longevity.
You have a power goal in mind......that's a good start. One thing I'll pick at is your "low boost" goal of 700-800. Define low boost. If you mean by 14-18 PSI to make that goal, ok then. If you mean sub 10 PSI to make that power, forget about it.
You have a power goal in mind......that's a good start. One thing I'll pick at is your "low boost" goal of 700-800. Define low boost. If you mean by 14-18 PSI to make that goal, ok then. If you mean sub 10 PSI to make that power, forget about it.
09-23-2010, 01:49 PM
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I hope you have DEEP pockets. VERY DEEP pockets. I'm finishing up my turbo build now and have eclipsed the $25K mark for this project. For the kind of power you're saying you want, you're going to need aftermarket everything and quality parts everywhere if you want it to last. And I don't mean just upgrading to forged eagle or scat crank and rods. I'm talking names like Callies, Lunati, Oliver, ect. You might get away with lower end stuff, but I'd highly question any longevity.
You have a power goal in mind......that's a good start. One thing I'll pick at is your "low boost" goal of 700-800. Define low boost. If you mean by 14-18 PSI to make that goal, ok then. If you mean sub 10 PSI to make that power, forget about it.
You have a power goal in mind......that's a good start. One thing I'll pick at is your "low boost" goal of 700-800. Define low boost. If you mean by 14-18 PSI to make that goal, ok then. If you mean sub 10 PSI to make that power, forget about it.
09-23-2010, 01:50 PM
#10
Unless you have the fabrication skills needed to do most of the work yourself, unless you have a true knowledge of forced induction applications, and unless you have a will to get frustrated time and time again with making mistakes. Go find $20k+ and start calling people. haha.
In all reality a low boost setting is between 8-12* for most turbos. A quality high boost setting is somewhere in the range of ~30*.
We built a turbo car at the shop I work at, APS Twins in a LS1 WS6 with a built shortblock from Texas Speed I believe, and all in all it ended up costing him between $20-$25k. The car makes 15* and put down 750hp and 800tq. It also has a built trans/rear though. Remember that's an LS1 car. Our LT1 motors, are a different story entirely. (ex, my H/C 355LT1 makes 408rwhp, my buddies 99 SS intake and cam only makes 430rwhp)
In all reality a low boost setting is between 8-12* for most turbos. A quality high boost setting is somewhere in the range of ~30*.
We built a turbo car at the shop I work at, APS Twins in a LS1 WS6 with a built shortblock from Texas Speed I believe, and all in all it ended up costing him between $20-$25k. The car makes 15* and put down 750hp and 800tq. It also has a built trans/rear though. Remember that's an LS1 car. Our LT1 motors, are a different story entirely. (ex, my H/C 355LT1 makes 408rwhp, my buddies 99 SS intake and cam only makes 430rwhp)
09-23-2010, 01:56 PM
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Unless you have the fabrication skills needed to do most of the work yourself, unless you have a true knowledge of forced induction applications, and unless you have a will to get frustrated time and time again with making mistakes. Go find $20k+ and start calling people. haha.
In all reality a low boost setting is between 8-12* for most turbos. A quality high boost setting is somewhere in the range of ~30*.
We built a turbo car at the shop I work at, APS Twins in a LS1 WS6 with a built shortblock from Texas Speed I believe, and all in all it ended up costing him between $20-$25k. The car makes 15* and put down 750hp and 800tq. It also has a built trans/rear though. Remember that's an LS1 car. Our LT1 motors, are a different story entirely. (ex, my H/C 355LT1 makes 408rwhp, my buddies 99 SS intake and cam only makes 430rwhp)
In all reality a low boost setting is between 8-12* for most turbos. A quality high boost setting is somewhere in the range of ~30*.
We built a turbo car at the shop I work at, APS Twins in a LS1 WS6 with a built shortblock from Texas Speed I believe, and all in all it ended up costing him between $20-$25k. The car makes 15* and put down 750hp and 800tq. It also has a built trans/rear though. Remember that's an LS1 car. Our LT1 motors, are a different story entirely. (ex, my H/C 355LT1 makes 408rwhp, my buddies 99 SS intake and cam only makes 430rwhp)
yea but i think the lt1 is a stronger and can take the beatings of hp over a ls...
09-23-2010, 01:58 PM
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09-23-2010, 02:10 PM
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09-23-2010, 02:52 PM
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Ok, OP, here's some prices that I can break down for you:
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
09-23-2010, 03:05 PM
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Ok, OP, here's some prices that I can break down for you:
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
09-23-2010, 03:16 PM
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Ok, OP, here's some prices that I can break down for you:
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
Rods -- for a good billet rod, figure in the $1000-1200 range.
Crank -- figure the $750 range
Custom pistons for YOUR application -- my Diamonds were $650
*Note -- when selecting components, I'd highly recommend doing a 5.7" rod because it will put the wrist pin farther down on the piston leaving a stronger unit than if you went long rod and pushed the pin up towards the piston face.
Heads -- well ported aftermarket heads are a must. Trick Flows (either their 23* or their new 21* would work) or AFR's......
Manifold -- if you can find an LT4, great, have the porter do that too. A single plane conversion is also an option.
Camshaft -- your choice. Doesn't need to be huge for a turbo, but talk to whomever is speccing out your motor as they can usually put you where you want.
Computer -- Stock ain't going to cut it. Figure a $2000 budget for this item.
Fuel System -- with injectors and a full -AN setup with twins in tank, you're looking at $1500 easy.
Figure about $1500-2000 for the turbo depending on what you get
The LT1 Boost hot parts for a turbo setup are about $2000 IIRC.
Wastegate and BOV -- probably another $550-600
Intercooler and cold side piping -- Approx $300 if you DIY
Don't forget about your suspension, gauges, and every little thing along the way.
yep pretty much spot on..
a boosted bigblock would be cheaper i think.. and more streetable
you could find a 396 or 402, and stroke it with a forged 4.00 crank and pistons use stock rods with arp bolts, with either a 4.125 bore or 4.155 bore. a set of mildly ported stock ovalport heads with 2.187/1.875 valves and you would have a nice 427/434 with decent flowing bigblock heads.. with 14lb of boost i think you would hit near 900hp...
you could also use the stock crank in a 396 or 402 and bore it to 4.250 and just get forged pistons. have the heads cut for 2.187/1.875 valves and pocket port them.. use arp fasteners throughout
do the low buck Ls computer swap from the slavage yard, or efi connections setup..
