Dave in Dallas

Ordered Guard Dawg Keyless ignition kit today. Plan to put button in ignition hole in bowl piece of steering column with sleeve of some sort. But here is reason for this post. I would like to add a latching circuit to their kit so that the button need only be bumped to start like newer cars. I am running puter from 99 Firebird and looking for a signal to use to release the latching relay once the motor has started. Any ideas?? What about the Gen-turn-on output red #15. Does anyone know if that is triggered upon start? Any other ideas??
Thanks

luigiandme

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that the system is set up that when you simply press the button once, it enters acc. mode..

Dave in Dallas

is there a time delay to starter

luigiandme

iTrader: (2)

The kit you bought is set up on time delay. Its programmed that a quick 'tap' goes to acc. then a hold proceeds to a startup. check the site and the owners manual, it will specify.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

I wish I hadn't seen this post because now I want that. Post pics of the install if you can.

InsaneAuto86

iTrader: (60)

+1.. system is pricey

Dave in Dallas

Got it. Thanks.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

Has anyone tried this?: http://www.advancedkeys.com/Prod_AK103B.html
I would like to combine it with this: http://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/..._Code=33040262
if possible. All things considered I think selling the factory power window/ lock setup I have and using the spal stuff will be quicker and easier, and the push button and keyless stuff would just be cool.
Putting the stock pw/locks in the car is a drilling-intensive and time-consuming process I think I'd rather avoid.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

Wow, the search feature does work!!!!

Seriously, I have a coworker who installed a similar device (start, not windows) and he had problems with it. However before you shy away, I would say it was his wiring and care, NOT the product (different brand). I've wanted to do this for years, but the car it's going on isn't even close enough to start wiring yet.

As for the windows - why wouldn't they work? It's just another few wires plugged into the body harness and it has a separate harness from there. If you're doing a full restore I would upgrade the fuse box before you do it so you can handle the additional current.

chuckd71

iTrader: (23)

When you ask about the windows working, do you mean the factory stuff or the spal? I know both will work, but the spal will be much easier to get in (and remove if I ever sold the car) since I will not have to worry about realigning the windows. Plus the stock stuff is 40 years old. (Just in case anyone else is considering it, here is a good write up on how to put the stock stuff in - http://www.buickperformance.com/PW.htm).
VS Spal - http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=304168
Some people care about using original parts (clearly I don't), so I was thinking if I sold what I have to someone looking for original it would be a win-win.
I'm not doing a full restore but half the interior is going to have to come out anyway to replace the top and I'm just trying to make it as comfortable as possible bit by bit. Eventually the whole thing will have to be pretty much rewired, but I would like to at least be able to drive the thing for a few months this summer.