bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

I've got a plain jane 67 mustang coupe and I've been kicking around pulling the 6 out of it and swapping in a larger motor. Knowing that I can get a pull out long block 5.3 w/ a working trans for about $1k what do I need to physically put the motor in the car?

I plan to go carbed w/ it so wiring/fuel, etc. is not an issue but i'm concerned about ordering an aftermarket front suspension package and having install problems.

Most of the mustang 2 rear steer kits(read: affordable) will require a front sump pan like I'd get w/ a GTO pan(i think), but what about mounts? Will it be easier to source 4.6 mounts and mod them to fit like people do on a fox body?

I honestly can't find much if any info on these swaps having on come across 5 or so all the websites I can think of where they kept the stock type front frame intact.

Does anyone have a write up or even just some pictures? I suck at real fabricating so the more bolt on type stuff that I can modify to use the better.

Jimbo302

Thats going to be a fabrication necessary type of job. I'm planning on doing a similar build, on a 1964 Comet. I have a set of sbf v8 mounts for the car and I will pick up a set of factory mounts for a 6.0 and decide what the best route is for making new mounts. I plan on building solid mounts that bolt in place.

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

I don't mind doing some small fab like motor mounts. My concern was having to create a new front crossmember or heavily modifying an exisiting aftermarket one. Is there a reason you choose the 6.0 mounts?

btw, nice choice on the early comet, a friend has a freshly restored 63 that I drool over from time to time.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

Dimensionally the LS is so close to stock, all the fabrication necessary should be using the factory engine mounts with some ebay-style engine plates; very little fabwork. For headers you can use normal mustang stuff with lsx flanges, and I believe that the gto accessories may be an easy fit, although the mustang II suspension should allow for more clearance than some of us

The newer Ls transmissions are mostly too big to fit in these cars unmodified, so if youre looking to go auto itll be a 4l60e/th350 or smaller, and for a manual it seems like a TKO or comprable is the best option. That said, if you dont mind banging out/fabbing a trans tunnel, you can fit a 6 speed (auto or manual) if youd like.

Feel free to check my thread, not a wealth of info yet, but some stuff ive found out.

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the link i had found that thread the other day...just wish there were more like it. I did check out the 67 drop top but its a little thin on tech info and its a shame it looks like its missing the in process pics.
for simplicity sake I will probably put an auto in it(whatever i can put a manual valve body in th350, etc). I'm not looking to make massive HP #'s. I just want something off the wall that I can turn into a decently fun car. As much as I'd like to do a 6spd unless one falls in my lap it won't fit the budget. I'd like to keep it under $5k including an airbar rear setup and upgraded front suspension, those 2 things alone eat up about 3/4s of it.

Tamatt27

iTrader: (4)

These are the mounts that I bought. Good quality, but pricey for what you get.
http://www.tinmanfabrication.com/ind...prod/prd92.htm

My engine isn't in the car yet, but here's a pic of a test fit:

Jimbo302

Eyeballing the crossmember, and mount locations on the ls block, I have assumed the ls will sit with enough room at the firewall and factory shock towers using the factory mount location. I haven't gotten any measurements yet though.
The mounts? Ha, no other reason that they are what came out of the truck I plan on getting the engine out of.

The LS1 is 25.25" long, height is 24-25", width across the cylinder heads is 20.5".
A sbf comes in around L29 x H27.5 x W24
So there should be plenty of room with the factory towers.
I plan on a th350 as well, hard to beat the durability and price.

Jimbo302

Looks good. I'm guessing from your sig, its a 68? Any mods to the front suspension or crossmember? What pan are you using?

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

I started looking into front suspension upgrades and found the AJE kit that lets you convert to SN95 front hubs(cobra brakes) and uses a coil over strut. Its not a full on road race kit but should be great for a driver and some 1/4 mile passes, anything will handle better than 50 yr old suspension tech w/ worn out bushings. It also has motor mounts built in for the LS1 or whatever engine you want. The AJE mounts are essentially what Tamatt is using w/ a poly bushing in the joint that mounts to the crossmember and not the frame rail. Since its front steer I can probably use the stock rear sump truck oil pan.

I really like it because it will knock about 100#'s off the front and it then I can put the aluminum 5.3 in there and drop another 100#'s. I'm really liking the stuff I'm finding. That will put the car on a serious diet along w/ the other work I have planned.

Tamatt27

iTrader: (4)

I don't have any suspension mods at the moment. The plan is to use a GTO front pan, since it's front sump, like the 289. I won't get the chance to make much more progress on it until I'm done with a stunt car I'm working on...probably March or April.
and yes, it is a '68 coupe.

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

Sweet mount pics... thats gonna be one of my next projects.. is that just welded to the strut tower?

My coupe came with new shocks/springs/bushings, so ive been fighting the temptation to go with a coilover setup, but the fact that there are so many systems also helps, lol..

Definitely let us know how you like whatever you go with, im stuck between stock-style-tech and new parts, or spending some dough on a redo, but either way itll have to fit my wilwoods..

whatre you guys doing for rears? (9", 8.8", irs?)

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

for the rear I'm just going to pick up an SN95 and cut the stock 4 link mounts off(ears on the top of the carrier and the pivots for the LCA's) and put stock leaf spring mounts back in the correct place.
Instant ability to add in 31 spline if you use an explorer carrier and aftermarket axles and it comes w/ disc brakes that let you use an off the shelf offset wheel depending on model year you put it in(65/66 use the 05+ wheels, 67+ use the 94-04 wheels) I plan to try and run either gt supercar replicas or FR500s, bullitts are cheap but played out, i may upgrade later to some minilite type wheels.

bonecrrusher

iTrader: (1)

Here ya go.... LS7 w/ dry sump... Nascar truck arm suspension etc....

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...budget-Mustang

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

No doubt that Ron's car is awesome but its not exactly a motor swap as much as it is a chassis swap. I can only wish I had the talent to pull something like that off.

here's my build thread on Pro-Touring that I'll keep updated.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...-Mustang-Coupe

Irish350

iTrader: (14)

haha, uh oh..

i was planning on white with a black hood

definitely gonna follow yer thread

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

I'm thinking of doing something w/ the green that mom's 72 chevelle was painted w/. probably honda competition white(think very light cream) w/ a singe wide grandsport type stripe in the green, but w/ the overall theme of the transam car on my link.

baggins

iTrader: (21)

Check out the aje racing website, they have a bolt in strut type front suspension kit. eliminates most of the shock tower and an LSx will bolt right in

bigbadblack93z

iTrader: (8)

The AJE kit is one that I'm considering but I feel that it will have its limitations compared to the TCI SLA type setup. I might end up running the TCI w/ coil overs and do away w/ the entire shock tower all together and adapt the 4.6 mounts they offer to the LS1.
W/ the AJE its an upgrade to the Fox type front end using lumina struts and their house spindles so it still puts a lot of stress on the shock tower and doesn't offer the handling benefits that a SLA can.
one of the other avenues i'm looking at is adapting 88 and up C4 front suspension to the frame with a take out front assembly.