baseball19

Okay i want to build my 95 Camaro Z28 M6...i wanna make it a 383..should i go forged or cast and what compression ratio? it will be my daily driver but will drag when i can and do some track racing...could you give me a list of all the parts and good brands that i will need and the estimated prices of the items..for ex.(pistons - 500, crank - 400 ect..) i would really like to know the prices and all the parts i need because i have an idea of the parts but i want to hear from u guys...i want to run mid to low 11's N/A...also i want a turbo but cant afford that right now for like a year or 2...am i better off building just an NA motor with like 11:1 comp?

what is everything i need for a 383 build and the estimated prices of those parts?

Forged or cast?

what compression?

thanks

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

What's your budget? Any current mods?

baseball19

budget is low..i have headers intake and flowmaster and short throw....id say 2000 to 2500 dollars....im just curious prices of parts and what it would cost to do the build....im gonna be searching on this and craigslist and other things for parts...ive seen pistons forged for 300 and cranks forged for 250-300 both new...lookin for 11's NA..

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

Yikes 2500 for a 383 build is quite on the low side.

I say you go the route of a stock rebuild maybe a 355 with some new ARP rod bolts and do a H/C/I from AI or LE still be hard to not go over that 2500 mark. 11's with a M6 I'd be putting that money into the rear end if I were you first becaust the 10 bolt in an M6 in the 11's might be a lil harsh on it.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Hate to be the bearer of bad news buddy, but that budget isn't going to cut it. Here are realistic figures:

Short-block, including parts, machining, and assembly: $3000+
Cylinder heads, valvetrain: $3000+
Supporting modifications, tuning: $1000+
Required drivetrain modifications: $1000+

These are modest figures but realistic.

You'd probably be better off just doing a heads/cam package utilizing your stock bottom end (if it's in good shape of course).

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

That would for a great motor and could do it for less I would think but like he says.........Cam/heads package run 400+ HP in a Stock Short block LT1 for a decent price and be close to 11's assuming the driver mod is there

kash13

if ur going to do it machine work is about $500 you will probably want to buy a balanced rotating assembly which will range from about $1000 to $2500 depending on how much power you are planning on putting down, if ur going to build one it will be cheaper in the long run to wait and put a really good bottom end in so you dont have to worry about it, also a cam $400 pushrods $100 springs retainers $250 to $400, throttle body $350 port ur intake to match because if you dont do a cam and throttle body ur just cutting air flow off to ur motor and it will be really insignificant you will need a clutch which is around $1000 probably want a 12 bolt to with it which is around $1300 used! when you start to make more power you have to start to think about supporting mods also

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

Yeah those figures are nowhere near realistic even for a 355. My budget topend (TB, Intake, Injectors, Rockers, Springs, Heads) came out to $1500. The cam was another $330, pushrods were $150, lifters were about $180. So thats right around $2200. Keep in mind my heads with springs cost me $600. Had i gone with a better set it would have been $1100 at least. So thats $2700 just on a good topend.

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

All these guys have valid points.

Im almost done with the supporting mods I need for the car all I need now is the stall and I'm full bolt ons and If i wanted to spray it i could easily get the car into the 11's.


with 2500 I would go.


EWP
1.7 roller rockers.
Valve springs and everything to go with the rocker swap
LS1 lid conversion/CAI
Nice Clutch
DR's
Cut outs if your stuck on using the flowmaster you already have or True duals.

and that will probably be all over 2000 but you will have a nice base to start with

Because now everything you have on the car now can be transfered over.
when i first got my car I ignored someone telling me i should get a stall first I wanted the exhaust and had visions of a big build. Now im shooting myself in the foot for not picking up that stall for 200 bucks. Very ignorant and didn't take other peoples input but thats what these forums are for.

With them mods i say 12.4 in the 1/4 at close to 110

baseball19

i know its real low and nearly impossible lol...i can get a 383 short block forged or cast 1000 to 1600 all together...im prolly better off going like that...like i said im not gonna buy from stores and mabey get some used parts but most likley not...it will take me a while searching but ill find it...would it be bad to get used heads and clean them up as long as they arent bad? btw off topic how can i get my car to be higher in the rear? just want that agressive stance on the car...is it just springs? what kind?

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

Baseball you can easily get your goals with out the 383 you can get it well into the 11's

then 900 for the rest of the motor? thats a REALLLL low budget.

With a LE or AI package you can get into the 11's easy give them a shout and tell them what you want. But like i said and everyone says you want to do the supporting mods for the engine first.

BigD383lt1

I would go with a lower compression if you plan on putting some kind of boost on the car in a year or two. I am running around 9.1-1 and still putting down around 320 at the wheel with a stalled auto and a really bad tune. The things people haven't mentioned is with all of this your going to need new injectors coil and your going to want a 6al... don't go to big on your cam or you will have vacuum issues. Your going to need gaskets bolts and misc.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I dont see you building a 383 for 2500 but I gots some good parts that will help you go faster.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/midwest-c...ckers-etc.html

baseball19

but i think i have to rebuild the engine anyways cause it has 201,xxx miles...too much for heads and cam on the stock block right

mguidry629

iTrader: (6)

I paid $1,400-$1,500 at the engine parts warehouse here in town for my 383 parts, which includes the crank, cam, rockers, springs, pistons, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets (I'm probably forgetting something). This is with my uncle's discount and with him running his own machine shop, I didn't have to pay for any machine work. I put another $300 on headers, and at least $500 in misc.

This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.

If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.

BigD383lt1

Is this your daily driver? If so your best bet IMO would be to pick up a block and rotating assembly and start fresh do it at the pace you can afford and do it right... I did my own 383 and there is so much that you don't consider if you haven't done it before. I thought I did well when I picked up my parts but then the things I didn't think of or account for nickle and dimed me pretty bad. I mentioned a few things but there are still other things like bearings valve covers stock may have clearance issues. water pump and of coarse you don't want to use the old worn motor mounts. These things add up fast. if you are on a budget you will want to be able to stretch it out to make it work. I agree with mguidry629 I wish I knew this forum before I had started it would have changed my direction a bit.

baseball19

no you can get 12's and 11's all motor and even 10's (if u build it right)...you must not have good heads...my car ran 13.6 with headers, cai, and flowmasters..thats it...somethin is deff wrong with a 13.3 through a 383 motor..whats ur rear?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Do yourself a favor and shy away from the Eagle cast stuff. They break, alot, and OFTEN. Even after you buy the parts, you still have to have machining done. I think you're in over your head to be honest. If your budget is that small, you MAYBE have enough to rebuild your bottom end to stock specs and put in a small cam, which will put you in the 12s, but going deep into the 11s is going to require FAR more coin (like I posted above). There would also be no benefit to spending money on used stock heads if yours are fine. As the poster above mentioned, there are tons of things that WILL nickel and dime you to death (hence what some people above call unrealistic estimates). Been there, done that - TRUST ME. Hate to see you start a build and run out of money 2/3rds of the way there. You want to do it right, eh?

For the stance, the Eibach ProKit is a good choice.

With those miles, even though you could still have good oil pressure and pass a leak-down, I wouldn't do it.

For the time being, I would concentrate on 1 of 2 things - A.) saving more coin or B.) do the OEM rebuild/cam.

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

I know thats a small cam in that 383 but im running bolt ons with a 2.1 short time to a 13.3 at 106.

You have to be trying to get more out of it then that im assuming?

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Classic example of doing things wrong. My car ran that with a nitto and catback. So you just picked up random parts like the cam and heads? You might have the cubes but Nothing to support them. Your motor is not not even making 300rwhp IMO. The trap speed should be way better.