Lt1 383 build help
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 78
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From: Florida
Lt1 383 build help Okay i want to build my 95 Camaro Z28 M6...i wanna make it a 383..should i go forged or cast and what compression ratio? it will be my daily driver but will drag when i can and do some track racing...could you give me a list of all the parts and good brands that i will need and the estimated prices of the items..for ex.(pistons - 500, crank - 400 ect..) i would really like to know the prices and all the parts i need because i have an idea of the parts but i want to hear from u guys...i want to run mid to low 11's N/A...also i want a turbo but cant afford that right now for like a year or 2...am i better off building just an NA motor with like 11:1 comp?
what is everything i need for a 383 build and the estimated prices of those parts?
Forged or cast?
what compression?
thanks
what is everything i need for a 383 build and the estimated prices of those parts?
Forged or cast?
what compression?
thanks
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
From: Florida
budget is low..i have headers intake and flowmaster and short throw....id say 2000 to 2500 dollars....im just curious prices of parts and what it would cost to do the build....im gonna be searching on this and craigslist and other things for parts...ive seen pistons forged for 300 and cranks forged for 250-300 both new...lookin for 11's NA..
Yikes 2500 for a 383 build is quite on the low side.
I say you go the route of a stock rebuild maybe a 355 with some new ARP rod bolts and do a H/C/I from AI or LE still be hard to not go over that 2500 mark. 11's with a M6 I'd be putting that money into the rear end if I were you first becaust the 10 bolt in an M6 in the 11's might be a lil harsh on it.
I say you go the route of a stock rebuild maybe a 355 with some new ARP rod bolts and do a H/C/I from AI or LE still be hard to not go over that 2500 mark. 11's with a M6 I'd be putting that money into the rear end if I were you first becaust the 10 bolt in an M6 in the 11's might be a lil harsh on it.
budget is low..i have headers intake and flowmaster and short throw....id say 2000 to 2500 dollars....im just curious prices of parts and what it would cost to do the build....im gonna be searching on this and craigslist and other things for parts...ive seen pistons forged for 300 and cranks forged for 250-300 both new...lookin for 11's NA..
Short-block, including parts, machining, and assembly: $3000+
Cylinder heads, valvetrain: $3000+
Supporting modifications, tuning: $1000+
Required drivetrain modifications: $1000+
These are modest figures but realistic.
You'd probably be better off just doing a heads/cam package utilizing your stock bottom end (if it's in good shape of course).
Hate to be the bearer of bad news buddy, but that budget isn't going to cut it. Here are realistic figures:
Short-block, including parts, machining, and assembly: $3000+
Cylinder heads, valvetrain: $3000+
Supporting modifications, tuning: $1000+
Required drivetrain modifications: $1000+
These are modest figures but realistic.
You'd probably be better off just doing a heads/cam package utilizing your stock bottom end (if it's in good shape of course).
Short-block, including parts, machining, and assembly: $3000+
Cylinder heads, valvetrain: $3000+
Supporting modifications, tuning: $1000+
Required drivetrain modifications: $1000+
These are modest figures but realistic.
You'd probably be better off just doing a heads/cam package utilizing your stock bottom end (if it's in good shape of course).
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
From: Northern Illinois
if ur going to do it machine work is about $500 you will probably want to buy a balanced rotating assembly which will range from about $1000 to $2500 depending on how much power you are planning on putting down, if ur going to build one it will be cheaper in the long run to wait and put a really good bottom end in so you dont have to worry about it, also a cam $400 pushrods $100 springs retainers $250 to $400, throttle body $350 port ur intake to match because if you dont do a cam and throttle body ur just cutting air flow off to ur motor and it will be really insignificant you will need a clutch which is around $1000 probably want a 12 bolt to with it which is around $1300 used! when you start to make more power you have to start to think about supporting mods also
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Yeah those figures are nowhere near realistic even for a 355. My budget topend (TB, Intake, Injectors, Rockers, Springs, Heads) came out to $1500. The cam was another $330, pushrods were $150, lifters were about $180. So thats right around $2200. Keep in mind my heads with springs cost me $600. Had i gone with a better set it would have been $1100 at least. So thats $2700 just on a good topend.
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Im almost done with the supporting mods I need for the car all I need now is the stall and I'm full bolt ons and If i wanted to spray it i could easily get the car into the 11's.
with 2500 I would go.
EWP
1.7 roller rockers.
Valve springs and everything to go with the rocker swap
LS1 lid conversion/CAI
Nice Clutch
DR's
Cut outs if your stuck on using the flowmaster you already have or True duals.
and that will probably be all over 2000 but you will have a nice base to start with
Because now everything you have on the car now can be transfered over.
when i first got my car I ignored someone telling me i should get a stall first I wanted the exhaust and had visions of a big build. Now im shooting myself in the foot for not picking up that stall for 200 bucks. Very ignorant and didn't take other peoples input but thats what these forums are for.
With them mods i say 12.4 in the 1/4 at close to 110
Im almost done with the supporting mods I need for the car all I need now is the stall and I'm full bolt ons and If i wanted to spray it i could easily get the car into the 11's.
with 2500 I would go.
EWP
1.7 roller rockers.
Valve springs and everything to go with the rocker swap
LS1 lid conversion/CAI
Nice Clutch
DR's
Cut outs if your stuck on using the flowmaster you already have or True duals.
and that will probably be all over 2000 but you will have a nice base to start with
Because now everything you have on the car now can be transfered over.
when i first got my car I ignored someone telling me i should get a stall first I wanted the exhaust and had visions of a big build. Now im shooting myself in the foot for not picking up that stall for 200 bucks. Very ignorant and didn't take other peoples input but thats what these forums are for.
With them mods i say 12.4 in the 1/4 at close to 110
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 78
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From: Florida
i know its real low and nearly impossible lol...i can get a 383 short block forged or cast 1000 to 1600 all together...im prolly better off going like that...like i said im not gonna buy from stores and mabey get some used parts but most likley not...it will take me a while searching but ill find it...would it be bad to get used heads and clean them up as long as they arent bad? btw off topic how can i get my car to be higher in the rear? just want that agressive stance on the car...is it just springs? what kind?
Baseball you can easily get your goals with out the 383 you can get it well into the 11's
then 900 for the rest of the motor? thats a REALLLL low budget.
With a LE or AI package you can get into the 11's easy give them a shout and tell them what you want. But like i said and everyone says you want to do the supporting mods for the engine first.
then 900 for the rest of the motor? thats a REALLLL low budget.
With a LE or AI package you can get into the 11's easy give them a shout and tell them what you want. But like i said and everyone says you want to do the supporting mods for the engine first.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Dunedin, Florida
I would go with a lower compression if you plan on putting some kind of boost on the car in a year or two. I am running around 9.1-1 and still putting down around 320 at the wheel with a stalled auto and a really bad tune. The things people haven't mentioned is with all of this your going to need new injectors coil and your going to want a 6al... don't go to big on your cam or you will have vacuum issues. Your going to need gaskets bolts and misc.
I dont see you building a 383 for 2500 but I gots some good parts that will help you go faster.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/midwest-c...ckers-etc.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/midwest-c...ckers-etc.html
I paid $1,400-$1,500 at the engine parts warehouse here in town for my 383 parts, which includes the crank, cam, rockers, springs, pistons, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets (I'm probably forgetting something). This is with my uncle's discount and with him running his own machine shop, I didn't have to pay for any machine work. I put another $300 on headers, and at least $500 in misc.
This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.
If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.
This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.
If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Dunedin, Florida
Is this your daily driver? If so your best bet IMO would be to pick up a block and rotating assembly and start fresh do it at the pace you can afford and do it right... I did my own 383 and there is so much that you don't consider if you haven't done it before. I thought I did well when I picked up my parts but then the things I didn't think of or account for nickle and dimed me pretty bad. I mentioned a few things but there are still other things like bearings valve covers stock may have clearance issues. water pump and of coarse you don't want to use the old worn motor mounts. These things add up fast. if you are on a budget you will want to be able to stretch it out to make it work. I agree with mguidry629 I wish I knew this forum before I had started it would have changed my direction a bit.
Thread Starter
Banned
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 78
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From: Florida
no you can get 12's and 11's all motor and even 10's (if u build it right)...you must not have good heads...my car ran 13.6 with headers, cai, and flowmasters..thats it...somethin is deff wrong with a 13.3 through a 383 motor..whats ur rear?
i know its real low and nearly impossible lol...i can get a 383 short block forged or cast 1000 to 1600 all together...im prolly better off going like that...like i said im not gonna buy from stores and mabey get some used parts but most likley not...it will take me a while searching but ill find it...would it be bad to get used heads and clean them up as long as they arent bad? btw off topic how can i get my car to be higher in the rear? just want that agressive stance on the car...is it just springs? what kind?
For the stance, the Eibach ProKit is a good choice.
For the time being, I would concentrate on 1 of 2 things - A.) saving more coin or B.) do the OEM rebuild/cam.
I paid $1,400-$1,500 at the engine parts warehouse here in town for my 383 parts, which includes the crank, cam, rockers, springs, pistons, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets (I'm probably forgetting something). This is with my uncle's discount and with him running his own machine shop, I didn't have to pay for any machine work. I put another $300 on headers, and at least $500 in misc.
This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.
If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.
This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.
If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.
You have to be trying to get more out of it then that im assuming?
I paid $1,400-$1,500 at the engine parts warehouse here in town for my 383 parts, which includes the crank, cam, rockers, springs, pistons, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets (I'm probably forgetting something). This is with my uncle's discount and with him running his own machine shop, I didn't have to pay for any machine work. I put another $300 on headers, and at least $500 in misc.
This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.
If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.
This is the "value setup" since the crank is the Eagle cast crank, but it will handle up to 500HP. I don't even know what I'm putting out yet because I haven't dynoed it, but I know it's not 500HP. I was hoping for low to mid 12s and my 1st time out was 13.3 at 103mph (homeade tune, but still slower than I was expecting). You definitely need more than just motor to get into the 12s, much less 11s. Tires, tune, stall(or clutch), gears, suspension.
If I had to pay for all the machine work, I would have been way over $2,500. And all the little stuff adds up. I learned a lot building and installing this motor and I would have done a few things different if I would have just been on this forum and read all the posts for about 3 months before I jumped into it. And I probably would have been all over the classifieds section too, but I didn't know the value of this forum until after the fact. Good Luck though.