Lt1 383 build help
#21
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Classic example of doing things wrong. My car ran that with a nitto and catback. So you just picked up random parts like the cam and heads? You might have the cubes but Nothing to support them. Your motor is not not even making 300rwhp IMO. The trap speed should be way better.
#22
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I admit I got a little rushed and excited with my build and did a few things the cheap or easy way out, but this was my first time doing anything like this. I was ignorant, and probably still am in some areas, but how else do you learn? Feel free to use me as a "classic example". I didn't just pick up random parts, though. I picked out my cam and took the advice of the engine parts guys and my uncle. The heads are just ported stock. We were thinking about 320rwhp, but you might be right, maybe lower. I've done a lot to support the motor since my last trip to the track, so we'll see what happens next time at the track.
And what else you have done to help them numbers
#23
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I admit I got a little rushed and excited with my build and did a few things the cheap or easy way out, but this was my first time doing anything like this. I was ignorant, and probably still am in some areas, but how else do you learn? Feel free to use me as a "classic example". I didn't just pick up random parts, though. I picked out my cam and took the advice of the engine parts guys and my uncle. The heads are just ported stock. We were thinking about 320rwhp, but you might be right, maybe lower. I've done a lot to support the motor since my last trip to the track, so we'll see what happens next time at the track.
#24
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I don't agree 100% with the whole "learn-by-doing, mistakes included" ideology. The motor I built was my first real performance build ever, and 80% of it I learned from talking with engine builders, researching other people's combos, talking with other racers, and (believe it or not) learning from credible internet sources. I think if you're dedicated enough and mean business, you can do it right the first time.
Sure hands-on experience helps in actually BUILDING IT of course, but deciding on and acquiring the parts that WORK is just as important.
Sure hands-on experience helps in actually BUILDING IT of course, but deciding on and acquiring the parts that WORK is just as important.
#25
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I don't agree 100% with the whole "learn-by-doing, mistakes included" ideology. The motor I built was my first real performance build ever, and 80% of it I learned from talking with engine builders, researching other people's combos, talking with other racers, and (believe it or not) learning from credible internet sources. I think if you're dedicated enough and mean business, you can do it right the first time.
Sure hands-on experience helps in actually BUILDING IT of course, but deciding on and acquiring the parts that WORK is just as important.
Sure hands-on experience helps in actually BUILDING IT of course, but deciding on and acquiring the parts that WORK is just as important.
#26
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I will agree with all of the above. I wanted a mild cam because this is my daily driver and I depend on it to get me to work every day. At the time of my build I did have another vehicle to drive, but it has since been sold. With that said, if I'd known what I know now, I would have gone with a bigger cam, because it seems that you can go pretty extreme and still have decent streetability with these cars. At the time I didn't want to take the chance of having idle problems, etc. For me this isn't a race car, but it's fun to go get your numbers at the track so you can talk about it.
Since my last trip, I've had Solomon tune done, msd wires, gone from 225/60/16 walmart tires to 295/35/18 BFG KDW2 (no, not as sticky as a drag radial, but I needed something to last longer), electric cutout, posi carrier (only spinning one tire last time out), I'm getting a wide-band O2 in the mail tomorrow to really fine tune, i've gotten rid of annoying knock problems. I still need to get bigger injectors and probably a few other things.
It seems like the motor is not making power past 5k rpms for some reason. Last time at the track I changed shift points from 5800 to 5500 to 5200 and finally 5000, which seemed to be the best shift point based on my ET's. This may have been corrected with the tune.
And lastly, my heads weren't CNC ported or anything. It was done at my uncles shop. I don't know the technical lingo, but I watched and helped throughout the whole process. He has a few tricks to getting heads to open up and the valves to seat better. Nothing compared to a CNC port job I'm sure.
Since my last trip, I've had Solomon tune done, msd wires, gone from 225/60/16 walmart tires to 295/35/18 BFG KDW2 (no, not as sticky as a drag radial, but I needed something to last longer), electric cutout, posi carrier (only spinning one tire last time out), I'm getting a wide-band O2 in the mail tomorrow to really fine tune, i've gotten rid of annoying knock problems. I still need to get bigger injectors and probably a few other things.
It seems like the motor is not making power past 5k rpms for some reason. Last time at the track I changed shift points from 5800 to 5500 to 5200 and finally 5000, which seemed to be the best shift point based on my ET's. This may have been corrected with the tune.
And lastly, my heads weren't CNC ported or anything. It was done at my uncles shop. I don't know the technical lingo, but I watched and helped throughout the whole process. He has a few tricks to getting heads to open up and the valves to seat better. Nothing compared to a CNC port job I'm sure.