parks450

iTrader: (17)

just wondering how i put the crank pulley on a ls1 crank? i have a installer but it seems none of the adaptors will work. any ideas? thanks john

Fastdriver1992

iTrader: (1)

get in on straight and then line up a piece of wood along it and hit the piece of wood with a lump hammer untill u can get threads started. use the old bolt to get the pulley in place fully then put the new bolt in

Greekey

iTrader: (3)

Thats a step you do not want to skimp out on. You can damage your crank threads if not done properly. You need the special tool that will allow you to seat the pulley on correctly without damaging your crank threads. The tool can be found here:https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...tool-pics.html

Fastdriver1992

iTrader: (1)

i used my method twice and had no issues

nichoms

iTrader: (1)

I have not done it on an LS1 yet, though I will have to very soon; but I used to work at Mercruiser Marine doing engine R&D and when I would install one I would do the board and dead blow hammer technique mentioned above, worked fine on about 50+ engines. Those were old school small block and big block chevy's, but they arent that different.

SSmoked1

iTrader: (21)

Spend the $45, have no worries and never look back.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Recipe for disaster. Methods such have this have ruined countless LS1 cranks, just do a search.

Either buy or make a tool. I made a simple tool for under $20 which is just threaded rod, three nuts and some washer. It performs the same job as step 4 in the GM procedure below. Set damper on crank, thread in tool until it bottoms and then back out 1/2 turn, then use the nut and washers to push to hub onto the crankshaft. Here is the tool and the GM procedure. Note that this is an interference fit of around 0.007" - 0.0011" with no key, so pressing it on correctly is key for it not to come loose again and not damaging the internal crank threads.

Paul 75 L82

iTrader: (1)

Go to the Tools & Fab forum on this site and spend the $45 and buy the tool from 618Hawk. Or just use the search to find him. It's a good looking tool.

nichoms

iTrader: (1)

That is probably a much better method.
Either way will work if you do it correctly, but doing as mentioned above is a safer bet.

slt200mph

iTrader: (42)

Either way will not work correctly....you NEVER want to beat on your crank pulley to install it....that is very much the WRONG way to do it....either purchase the tool or go to the hardware store and purchase the pieces to make your own and do it the correct way...you will not damage your engine buy pulling it on as described in the GM technical manual...good luck with your install...

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

When you beat on the pulley it transfers ALL the load to the crank's thrust bearing. These bearings are not designed to carry these types of loads. Thrust bearing damage can take out an entire engine. I bought the Hawks tool and it has been fantastic. I would recommend it to anyone. Or, make one. Either one of those options is the correct way

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

While the methods SOMETIMES works, more often them not your damaging thrust bearings and stripping out crank threads. EVEN if you use the 1" longer crank bolt.



I have made this tool before (did not need the piece in the middle between the nut and washer) and work on LT1's and LS1's All you need is the appropriately sized threaded rod and some grade 8 hardware (washes will bend if you don't). The cost was minor, the rod was the most expensive to find and I had to go to Mc Master.

By engaging ALL the threads in the crank you have now ensured that all the pressure extracted on that crank is not focused on 2-3 threads but all.

I will say that I get my pulley started with some oil/lube, and a slight tap with a dead blow hammer to get it sitting on there, just so its basically straight, the tool does the rest.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Yes, that piece was something I had that was thick and stiff and I just used it as a filler. I bought the threaded rod and nuts from McMaster. I have used this on my car a few times and on other cars as well, always works well.

nichoms

iTrader: (1)

VetteNuts - Thanks for posting up the GM procedure...
I used to do the hammer technique with work test engines, but definitely not worth the risk on my own engine (my own $$$) so looks like I will be making myself a tool!

bmf5150

Thank you!!!!