ADM

I am biting the bullet and rebuilding my block with forged pistons and will ARP the bottom end (something I think I should have done when I was doing my cam and head gasket change)

This is going to be an N/A build, spinning only as high as a CC503 needs.

Please feel free to suggest better alternative parts (but no 500$ pistons please )

Budget rebuild is what its going to be, and if I don't need forged pistons for what I am looking for out of my engine then I will skip on that too.

These are the pistons I had in mind

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TRW-L2256F30/

Not really sure on what piston rings to use, so help me out on choosing the right ones for my build.

Bearings, most people use Clevite in their rebuilds. Good to go or are there better alternatives?

Also, what bearing clearances should I be aiming for to maintain good oil pressure on the rebuild?

These are the ARP bolts I have picked

Con-rod http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-6005/

Main bearing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-5502/

For oiling, I already have a new GMPP high pressure/standard volume oil pump. But I think this time I will upgrade to the ARP drive shaft for the steel collar instead of the OEM plastic one.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-134-7901/

What is the safest compression ratio I can go with on 91 pump gas?

All seals and gaskets will be GM, except for timing cover kit I will use Fel-Pro.

I already have ARP head bolts so thats covered.


Now, feel free to criticize any parts chosen

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

check this thread out, for a N/A build it is a pretty good build with forged scat I beam rods and forged Mahle pistons

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ottem-end.html

JaGSpeed

iTrader: (8)

+1

The same stuff I wanted to use.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If I were you (assuming you're going to be letting a machine shop do the assembly), I'd let the machine shop piece it together for you. That way if anything were to fail or be the wrong size, or if there's ANY issue, it's on them, not you and your Summit parts selection.

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

I REALLY dont know but where he lives i dont see there being many if any good AMERICAN performance shops around. I could be wrong though.

MichaelWade

I'm basically in the same boat as you, but I think I'm going to purchase a whole kit. Then piece together the Con rods, crank, and pistons.

Are you rebuilding the whole bottom end?

ls2pontiac

iTrader: (1)

You can always go to AI and get a forged 355 rotating assembly for $2200 balanced.
Ai Forged 355cid LT1 Rotating Assembly Package:

# Compstar Forged 4340 3.48" Stroke Crankshaft
# Compstar Forged 4340 H-Beam Rods
# Mahle Forged Pistons (-5cc, -16cc, or -26cc)
# Mahle Plasma-Moly 1.5/1.5/3mm Ring Package
# Mahle Steel Pins & Wire Locks
# Main and Rod Bearings Included
# Internally Pre-Balanced by Callies/CompStar!

$2196 - Ready for Assembly by your local machinist.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Your list seems good.

ADM

Unfortunately we have no professional machine shops here for performance builds, they will just do the machine work, you have to pick your own cocktail of parts and even assemble the motor yourself.

That is why I came on here asking for advice on what parts to get, and whats worked well for experienced folks.

Thankfully I do have access to calibrated measurement tools and a decent torque wrench, but I know I have a lot of reading to do before I assemble the motor.

If I don't know something, its only safe to ask and learn than be arrogant and pay for another build

ADM

My list or ls2pontiac's list?

Any additional parts you could recommend bro?

Seen those kits on the AI website, wish I could afford a 383 rotating assembly with TFS 215s and a matching cam with a TH350 sitting behind the motor.

Donations anyone? lol

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

LOL when your paying as much for gas as we are, We will donate

ADM

If only housing was as cheap as the USA, it would be heaven here.

BTW, we pay 1.19$ per gallon. So thats roughly 18$ for a full tank for 91? Also costs 18$ for 5 liters of engine oil too

This thread has so many views, only a few guys chipped in. Would appreciate more opinions

ADM

Gentlemen, I am about to pull the motor and pay day is coming soon. I hope to get the engine to the machine shop in time to get sizes for my bearing and order them to get my motor back up and running (got leave until mid Feb so I can spend it working on my car).

I still need advice on what piston rings to use?

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

a machinist just today to stay away from mahle rings...cant remember why...i'll have to ask him...i'm doing a build too

ADM

I have been thinking of slightly raising the budget to accommodate for rods, even though no one on here has answered if the stock rods will hold for high RPM?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700716/

Forged I-beams with 7/16 ARP rod bolts, floating pin also increases choice of pistons.

Still need answers with the piston rings.

So many guys on here have built high hp motors, and no one bothers to even give their input? Amazing even with over 200 views.

Is what you use that much of a secret? sheesh

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

The Scat forged I beams is a good choice, and if N/A Maybe the 6 inch

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

Maybe because it is more work for him cause there file fit rings that come with the pistons. I used the rings that came with my Mahle pistons so that I could file them for a 250 shot

ADM

Could I ask what difference it would make? I have seen some picking 6 inch rods for their builds, for a stoker I can understand the longer rod but on stock stroke how do I benefit?

Yes it will be purely N/A

Was looking at these pistons too http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PBP-P2256F-030/

or these for the 6.000 rod http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PBP-P3501F-030/