Best & Cheapest way to build 355 LT1
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Best & Cheapest way to build 355 LT1
I recently bought an 86 Iroc-Z28 with no motor and no tranny with a straight body for $300! Bang for my buck huh? Well, I was wondering what was the best, most efficient, and cheapest way to build my LT1 to be a 355. It came off of my brother 97 Z28 and has roughly 90K miles on it...(btw, it blew a head gasket but block is good..)
#4
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Why would you automatically go to a 355? Bore the engine only as much as necessary to make the bores true again.
And dont get a shitty $100 bore job. That's why a lot of engines run like ****.
You need to find a machine shop that has a boring machine that has the capability to really control the taper in the bores and make them true to GM's spec or better, again. Which is not that easy to do...
I talked to a world class speed boat engine builder and he told me the one tip he could share with me is when I build and engine MAKE SURE the bores are true. That entails a shop that knows what they're doing, and has the equipment to do so...
And dont get a shitty $100 bore job. That's why a lot of engines run like ****.
You need to find a machine shop that has a boring machine that has the capability to really control the taper in the bores and make them true to GM's spec or better, again. Which is not that easy to do...
I talked to a world class speed boat engine builder and he told me the one tip he could share with me is when I build and engine MAKE SURE the bores are true. That entails a shop that knows what they're doing, and has the equipment to do so...
#5
Best and cheap don't go together.
Around here you can expect to pay around $250 for standard block prep and machining.
I would as already suggested let the machine shop steer you in the right direct, which would most likely be good Clevite bearings, stock crank turned or polished, factory rods checked, shot peened and good ARP rod bolts. As for pistons, do you plan on ever spraying this? If so I would spend your money here and go with a set of good forged pistons and good rings. Even if you never spray it, the added longevity and strength are well worth it IMHO. The the typical Melling M55HV oil pump (and required steel collared driveshaft and matching HV pickup) and good fel-pro gaskets and good ARP head bolts. If you have any money left over you cam it and do some other bolt ons, but I would focus more on building a rock solid shortblock foundation that you can grow on later without having to rebuild it again to reach your goals.
Around here you can expect to pay around $250 for standard block prep and machining.
I would as already suggested let the machine shop steer you in the right direct, which would most likely be good Clevite bearings, stock crank turned or polished, factory rods checked, shot peened and good ARP rod bolts. As for pistons, do you plan on ever spraying this? If so I would spend your money here and go with a set of good forged pistons and good rings. Even if you never spray it, the added longevity and strength are well worth it IMHO. The the typical Melling M55HV oil pump (and required steel collared driveshaft and matching HV pickup) and good fel-pro gaskets and good ARP head bolts. If you have any money left over you cam it and do some other bolt ons, but I would focus more on building a rock solid shortblock foundation that you can grow on later without having to rebuild it again to reach your goals.
#6
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iTrader: (14)
Why would you automatically go to a 355? Bore the engine only as much as necessary to make the bores true again.
And dont get a shitty $100 bore job. That's why a lot of engines run like ****.
You need to find a machine shop that has a boring machine that has the capability to really control the taper in the bores and make them true to GM's spec or better, again. Which is not that easy to do...
I talked to a world class speed boat engine builder and he told me the one tip he could share with me is when I build and engine MAKE SURE the bores are true. That entails a shop that knows what they're doing, and has the equipment to do so...
And dont get a shitty $100 bore job. That's why a lot of engines run like ****.
You need to find a machine shop that has a boring machine that has the capability to really control the taper in the bores and make them true to GM's spec or better, again. Which is not that easy to do...
I talked to a world class speed boat engine builder and he told me the one tip he could share with me is when I build and engine MAKE SURE the bores are true. That entails a shop that knows what they're doing, and has the equipment to do so...
Deff has no idea what he's doing at all.
#7
So long as the machine shop uses a torque plate with the head gasket to be used and correct procedures are followed, unless you are building a 700hp nitrous motor, you're not going to see any gains by paying someone $500 to do a simple true and bore unless the block is really FUBAR.
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#8
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I just got a quote to go .030 over (bored/honed/boiled) with pistons, piston rings, grind crank w/bearings, lifters, gaskets, oil pump, and roller rockers for $950 with one of my dads long time friends...
Coast Motor Supply in Canoga Park, Ca.
Coast Motor Supply in Canoga Park, Ca.
#9
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Why would you automatically go to a 355? Bore the engine only as much as necessary to make the bores true again.
And dont get a shitty $100 bore job. That's why a lot of engines run like ****.
You need to find a machine shop that has a boring machine that has the capability to really control the taper in the bores and make them true to GM's spec or better, again. Which is not that easy to do...
I talked to a world class speed boat engine builder and he told me the one tip he could share with me is when I build and engine MAKE SURE the bores are true. That entails a shop that knows what they're doing, and has the equipment to do so...
And dont get a shitty $100 bore job. That's why a lot of engines run like ****.
You need to find a machine shop that has a boring machine that has the capability to really control the taper in the bores and make them true to GM's spec or better, again. Which is not that easy to do...
I talked to a world class speed boat engine builder and he told me the one tip he could share with me is when I build and engine MAKE SURE the bores are true. That entails a shop that knows what they're doing, and has the equipment to do so...