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Clutch sticking to the floor after hard acceleration problem solved!

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Old 04-09-2011, 03:42 AM
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Default Clutch sticking to the floor after hard acceleration problem solved!

The notorious problem of the clutch sticking to the floor after hard acceleration is far too common! Something I experienced every since I bought my latest f-body. I believe thanks to danbo313 there is a solution to this.

Solution:

Up at the top of the clutch pedal there is a "U" shaped spring, known as the clutch pedal return spring. After removing this spring my problem of the clutch sticking to the floor was finally resolved (I removed the spring and did not replace it just totally did away with it) Now at 3:35 A.M. I believe this is the solution for most everyone out there that is having this issue, although for some it may be the master cylinder I recommend trying this first. I at first thought it was my master cylinder but after recieving a message on here from danbo313 about the clutch pedal return spring, and doing some more research I figured I'd remove the spring and see if that would solve my problem before spending the money on the Tick M/C. Believe it or not my car now goes into gears a lot easier and after ragging it threw 1st-4th gear at 5500 rpm shifts the clutch did not whatsoever stick to the floor.

If your having this issue I strongly reccommend removing the spring before spending the large amounts of cash on parts that are not possibly necessary.

If this doesn't solve your problem, because I'm not 100% sure this is every ones solution, I'm sorry. But it would never hurt to try this before spending the cash. It worked for me and after doing my homework have seen that it worked for many others as well without replacing the slave or M/C. f
Old 04-14-2011, 02:50 PM
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does anyone have a pic of this problem spring and/or where exactly it is, I don't have this problem -yet- but my car is in storage so i can't look at this thingy
Old 04-14-2011, 05:27 PM
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why would a return spring on a clutch peddle solve this? If that was really the problem it would stick when it's idleing.
Old 04-14-2011, 05:46 PM
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yea, everytime my clutch pedal return spring broke it made my sticking issue worse! until I replaced the master cylinder with a tick performance unit and removed the spring
Old 04-15-2011, 04:20 PM
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im going to try this..... i just did the drill mod, with no luck..... so im going to try this for ***** and gigles... and see what happens....
Old 04-15-2011, 06:52 PM
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Anything happen?
Old 04-15-2011, 07:35 PM
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I would say replacing the master cylinder is what would fix the problem since I just did this with one from Tick performance, I also did take the spring off as it was recommended per the install instructions. High rpm shifting all day now, ha ha.
Old 04-15-2011, 07:37 PM
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The spring is not the problem. You're just buying yourself more time for that dying master cylinder.
Old 04-16-2011, 09:38 AM
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Tick.

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Old 04-16-2011, 08:34 PM
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i tryed it and fixed the prob... no more sticking at high rpm....sweet...... now i know i still have to buy a new clucthmaster cly.....but for now im loving this.....
Old 04-16-2011, 09:04 PM
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Sometimes (key word) the return spring is the problem. It was for me. On mine, the spring was so weak that the ends of it would catch on the bracket. Now on mine not only would it stick but there was a grinding sound every time the pedal was depressed.
My fix - zip tie around the spring. 8 months later no sticky clutch pedal. (every case is different though)
Old 04-17-2011, 07:52 AM
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Mine popped off under warranty, and I had the dealer put it back on. Popped off again and I stuck it in a parts caddy and later threw it away. That was in 2002. I have never had my clutch pedal stick to the floor.

That's no proof, of course, and I'm not trying to talk anyone out of a better aftermarket part, like Tick, but it's a clear first step and free .

BobP
Old 04-19-2011, 12:38 PM
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Well, the problem is definitely the master cylinder. BUT, the spring helps you push the pedal to the floor to reduce fatigue. When your master is going back it loses pressure, especially after high rpm shifting. Removing the spring allows it to return because it remove that little bit of extra downward pressure on the pedal. It's not "solving" the problem, it's just masking the symptoms. It's like saying, the bandaid fixed the 3" gash on my leg. Stitches would fix the gash, the bandaid just makes it so that it's not quite as bad. Stitches = tick master cylinder Bandaid = drill mod and !spring.
Old 04-19-2011, 01:08 PM
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The problem is'nt the master or the spring.....The problem is and has been the clutch. I have'nt had this problem since I did my own clutch set-up. The pp just ain't strong enough to keep the fingers out thus when you depress the pedal it either can't get there or it don't have enough travel to push the pedal back.
Old 04-19-2011, 01:50 PM
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The spring makes it easier to push the clutch peddle in so when your peddle gets stuck on the floor that spring is working with the problem so removing it will help the peddle not stick or not stick as much. I plan on taking mine out but also plan on buying a tick when I have the extra money
Old 04-19-2011, 02:10 PM
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Someone post pics of this.
Old 04-20-2011, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The problem is'nt the master or the spring.....The problem is and has been the clutch. I have'nt had this problem since I did my own clutch set-up. The pp just ain't strong enough to keep the fingers out thus when you depress the pedal it either can't get there or it don't have enough travel to push the pedal back.
I agree removing the assist Spring is a bandaid, it only helps to lessen tension on the weak factory clutch diaphragm springs. An aftermarket clutch(ie Monster) allows for quicker shifts with better disengagement and will prevent you from damaging your synchros.
Old 07-02-2011, 12:36 PM
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Pic please!
Old 07-02-2011, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by HioSSilver
The problem is'nt the master or the spring.....The problem is and has been the clutch. I have'nt had this problem since I did my own clutch set-up. The pp just ain't strong enough to keep the fingers out thus when you depress the pedal it either can't get there or it don't have enough travel to push the pedal back.
^ This! The PP fingers have a reduced pressure to push back against the slave at high RPM and removing the spring covers up the symptoms of the reduced pressure.
Old 07-03-2011, 02:21 PM
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Mine broke while I was driving about 3 years ago, I never put a new one on. A Tick master will fix your sticking pedal problem; they actually recommend to remove the return spring during the install of their MC.





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