waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Well, i think i might do my FIRST cam install. Got some tax money and i talked to TSP and (hopefully) ill order it on Mon. Getting the 228/228 @ 112 LSA plus all the valvetrain and timing chain and oil pump. Now guys, im unemployed (sad to say) and i have some time so im going to attempt this myself. Was reading the LS1howto.com and it doesnt seem that hard. What do you guys who did it for the first time can tell me so i dont throw a wrench thrue the wall Thanks all..

98SS Blackattack

The oil pump pick up tube bolt is a PITA. Use the TDC method instead of comp. Air. Use 1/4 " pipe instead of pen magnets. It just takes time.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

What doea PITA mean? Down here in texas its kinda like a taco for food? And when you mean to use the 1/4" pipe, that is to stick thrue the block to keep the valves or pushrods up from falling into the oil pan? (Im not TOO familiar with the INSIDE of the block) But thats the whole idea of learning and having this tech site for the insight....

98SS Blackattack

PITA-Pain in the ***
The pipe is so the lifter dont fall
TDC is so the valves dont fall into the combustion chamber

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

Talked with a buddy of mine and he mentioned the air thing. Do you have to hook it up to both sides at the same time??? Sorry for the newbie questions but im just trying to make sure i dont over look ANYTHING. So the more peolpe tell me about their problems the more i will pay attention when i do it..

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

The pipe is so the lifter dont fall
TDC is so the valves dont fall into the combustion chamber[/QUOTE]

Is this the same thing or you have to do both?

98SS Blackattack

[/QUOTE]Is this the same thing or you have to do both?[/QUOTE]
You have to do both. You use the comp air/TDC method on each cylinder one at a time. Read the write up a few more times and it will become familiar

c5blkvette

I'm abou to do a cam swap also. Are you saying, all you need is some 1/4" pipe to keep the lifter up and not any expensive tools?

98SS Blackattack

Yea read this https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ht=lifter+tool

Gary Z

Be careful. Keep parts clean. Don’t rush. Don’t use excessive force. If your engine has less than 50k miles, you can simplify the job by not replacing the timing chain. The risk that the timing chain will fail is probably smaller than the risks and potential problems involved with removing the oil pump.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

What kinda problems you talking about with the oil pump? Yea, mine has 86k so i think the timin chain is a must. So, when i called TSP the said while your down there might as well spend an extra 70 bucks and get a new oil pump. I agree. It may not go out for another 40k but then again 1k so why not.. Is the oil pump that much of a pain?

SSactionLs1

took forever to get the air fitting to thread in 8 fricken plug holes

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

See, im guessing you do that is too keep the valves up while you change the springs??? Is that right?

Hardtop00SS

iTrader: (17)

I used the compressed air method to change the springs, worked fine for me, but I was nervous cause I didn't want to lose air pressure and drop the valve in the cylinder. I was also told by my auto tech teacher to use the cloth line, stuff it in the cylinder (leaving some hanging out of the spark plug hole!) and compress the cylinder up and the cloth line will hold the valves because I heard that when you use the TDC method, the valves drop a tad bit, which mean you have to compress the spring even more to put the keeper on. I also used pen magnets to hold up the lifters, worked great too! Just make sure that you super glue the magnet part to the telescoping rod so the magnet doesn't slide off. Other then that, take your time, remember where things went (some people take pictures to help them out), and torque down EVERYTHING! Good luck man.

Robbie

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

So, if i cant get ahold of the air pressure method, what is the next best thing to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder while i replace teh springs etc..??

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I use the air method.Takes me 1.5 hours to do all the springs.Not that hard and I pump 100psi into the cylinder.The Cam change is not very hard.I pull out the AC condensor completely to make it easier.My first Cam change took 6 hours.Now I can do the Cam in 3 hours taking my time (not the springs)

Black Z/28

Some good (and different) hints there man.

waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

I was reading the TDC method. So, from what I understand about that method is you have to turn the crank for each cylinder to get the piston to the top so the valve wont drop.. Cool, understand that. But what order, and what order do you do it ( 1,3,5,7 on one turnd and 2,4,6,8 on the next)? And how can you tell if its up to that point to change the spring?

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I find the following to be great info, With a few cautions::
if you use TDC only the values will drop about 1/4 in which is a problem if installing strong springs so you may like to use the rope in the spark plus hole or use air also to hold the value complete up .. but be carfull becase the air can /will roll the piston down IF you don't lock the flywheel with something( I use both TDC and air )also becarfull it is easyer to get to the back spring IF you leave the spring next to rear off while you do rear >>>at this point it is possible to bump the next to last stim ( which you have no spring and retainer on ) IF YOU BUMP IT AND LOSE AIR PRESSURE AND ARE NOT AT TDC you will drop a valve.
Info will explain how to rotate crank to use TDC ,I do not think 1/4 in rod is large enough I would use 3/8 in ,just cut it 3-4 in longer than cam if installing double spring the spide type spring compresser tips were not long enough to hold the inside spring so we welded a little on tips to make them about 3/16 longer, try this for great info::: http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?ar...23&printable=y

you may make a flywheel tool it insert into the 2 " diag pop out plug under fywheel

if the picture does not look rite it should be 2 " wide all length of too,( 1/8 x 2 x 12 ) the notch in side is to lock it on side of hole
sorry this is long but hope it helps

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waterbug1999

iTrader: (3)

A 1/4" thick pipe? How long do i cut them? (did some reading and cut it a little longer then the cam) This is instead of buying the JRP tool right?